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2.0l & 2.4l blocks sitting here, What to do?

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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 06:28 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by blackenedwings
Given the options either a 2.0 or a 2.4LR. If you already have a clean 4g63 block and plan on drag racing, the 2.0L is probably your best bet.
Yes I figured this aswell. I was told since both of these blocks have over 100k they might need to be sleeved.......? I know these are closed decks shouldn't I just have the machine shop check them out first?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #17  
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Never heard of a Evo block that needed to be sleeved regardless of mileage.

Was this a Honda shop that told you this. With either block: rods, pistons and maybe a aftermarket crank (for added insurance on the 2.4) should be all you need.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:56 AM
  #18  
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From: Port Arthur, TX
Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
Never heard of a Evo block that needed to be sleeved regardless of mileage.

Was this a Honda shop that told you this. With either block: rods, pistons and maybe a aftermarket crank (for added insurance on the 2.4) should be all you need.
More than likely, I told them I just needed the block tanked, decked, honed and they told me I would need it sleeved blah blah. I'm the only one with a Evo that actually works on mine within about 100 miles so I'm sure they are probably going off honda crap. I'm going to check a different shop maybe someone without bia's towards imports
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
Never heard of a Evo block that needed to be sleeved regardless of mileage.

Was this a Honda shop that told you this. With either block: rods, pistons and maybe a aftermarket crank (for added insurance on the 2.4) should be all you need.
Yeah, my first thought was "sleeved wtf?" I've never heard of a sleeved 4g63. Tell them it isn't some ****ty B-series.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 12:05 PM
  #20  
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What about a 2.3LR, using your 2.0 block.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #21  
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Honda's are the only cars where "sleeving" comes into play. I DEF> would avoid them. They obviously don't know anything about the 4G63
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #22  
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We've seen domestic shops that sleeve 4G63...they all leak and wont keep a headgasket in it. If it needs sleeved (the old style domestic way, not quite honda) then its junk or needs to be overbored more.

Aaron
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #23  
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From: Port Arthur, TX
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
don't waste your time with oil squirters in the 2.4 block...
So your saying to not get the added insurance and just run it how it is?


Originally Posted by mdsevo06
What about a 2.3LR, using your 2.0 block.
I've done some reading I don't think the 2.3 will hold up to what I'm wanting.



Originally Posted by JohnBradley
We've seen domestic shops that sleeve 4G63...they all leak and wont keep a headgasket in it. If it needs sleeved (the old style domestic way, not quite honda) then its junk or needs to be overbored more.

Aaron
This is basically my issue, They are a Mustang pro shop. specialize in Old terminator cobra's and a few new 5.0's up there. I figured they could do the machine work but I guess not. If I can't find a local shop I might just have my block sent off to just be built.

Last edited by kaonashi; Mar 12, 2013 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #24  
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I've had a 4g sleeved before due to excess damage in one cylinder. You can only do it if your not placing two sleeves side by side to do it properly.

The one I had done is a 2.3/3b combo making about 450whp, and has held up just fine to numerous track days(30 min sessions). All in having it done competently.

However, that's only if necessity requires it...if the block is good there is no need for it, like has been stated in this thread.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #25  
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I would make a 2.1L if it's for drag racing, well balanced for super high rpms and you can get good money for the 2.3L combo that you could sell... It's a win-win.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #26  
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Remember, the 2.3LR is a big difference over the 2.3, handles high RPM's without the extra side load and with more displacment.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 08:25 AM
  #27  
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well a 2.3LR would not have a stable piston. you would have to move the pin so far up, it will be unreliable.

I would not recommend it. For a drag car, 2.0 is probably the best bet because of the HG has more surface to seal and of course the cyl walls are thicker & pistons remain with stock location wristpin.

I am up in the air right now if i want to use my 2.2 4g64 as the choice or not, or buy a set of 153mm rods and make a 4g63 2.2. the problem is the 2.2 4g64 can rev so much higher, but then you have the issue of HG sealing as a possibility & the thinner walls.

I also dont like how the dipstick doesnt fit that well and the upper timing cover needs changed, and the waterpump issue.

other then that it is good. but the thinner cyl walls / hg issues concerns me.

the other crappy thing is, the rods took a month to get here, (the 159mm), so i can only guess the 153mm will take just as long making the car sit on stands for another extra month!!!!!!! its already welded to them as it is.

i think what im personally going to do is just switch to a 2.0L for the first time then assemble my 2.2 also and let it sit. hopefully
coming off a 2.3 for 4yrs doesn't make the 2.0 feel like crap due to the loss of tq.

Last edited by tscompusa; Mar 13, 2013 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 09:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
well a 2.3LR would not have a stable piston. you would have to move the pin so far up, it will be unreliable.

I would not recommend it. For a drag car, 2.0 is probably the best bet because of the HG has more surface to seal and of course the cyl walls are thicker & pistons remain with stock location wristpin.

I am up in the air right now if i want to use my 2.2 4g64 as the choice or not, or buy a set of 153mm rods and make a 4g63 2.2. the problem is the 2.2 4g64 can rev so much higher, but then you have the issue of HG sealing as a possibility & the thinner walls.

I also dont like how the dipstick doesnt fit that well and the upper timing cover needs changed, and the waterpump issue.

other then that it is good. but the thinner cyl walls / hg issues concerns me.

the other crappy thing is, the rods took a month to get here, (the 159mm), so i can only guess the 153mm will take just as long making the car sit on stands for another extra month!!!!!!! its already welded to them as it is.

i think what im personally going to do is just switch to a 2.0L for the first time then assemble my 2.2 also and let it sit. hopefully
coming off a 2.3 for 4yrs doesn't make the 2.0 feel like crap due to the loss of tq.

I agree with you on this 2.0l is probably going to be my best all around for the time frame i'm dealing with. Plus the car is going to be using a HTA86 so I don't think the 2.3L would be smart >.<
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #29  
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id do the 2.0L, i have a 2.4L they are nothing but trouble, the only reason i got it was to save money. The headgasket is VERY hard to seal running 30+ PSI from my experience with them.

Only positive thing in to a 2.4L is price, and it spools up bigger turbo very quick.

Last edited by 5LEEPERISAH23I; Mar 13, 2013 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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2.4 and headgaskets are all about prep when its going together.
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