So now I have a stock evo 8 2.0l block & a 2.4l block sitting in the garage, both stripped but not tanked or anything yet. There is way to many threads floating around for builds or any direction for me to think straight at this point so I'll just ask you guys for some toss up ideas.

Planning for a HTA3586 or 82 sometime later in the year, but first for this build!

I'm thinking either 2.0LR/2.1L or 2.2L Just can't decide & not 100% sure on which block to use on this. Please chime in while I'm reading endless amounts of posts...>.<

2.0L w/ 94mm crank custom pistons/rods
&
2.4L w/ 2.0 crank for 2.1?


Think I'm going to go with 2.0L \/

Manley 88mm Forged Crank
Wiseco 1400HD Pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods

 

What's the car being used for?

 

DD/ Drag nothing else.

 

The best think is that you really cant go wrong eather way

Have fun with your build

 

Long rod 2.0 is a waste of time and money. A 2.1 is a waste as well. If you use a 2.0 block do a standard rod 2.0. If you go with a 2.4 do either a long rod 2.4 or a 2.2. I would say 2.4 all day. That's what I have and I love it. I would sell the 2.0 block and make some cash to pay for the 2.4 build.

 

2.4L for daily driving because it will give you a nice torque filled powerband and be punchy.

I would say 2.0L for drag simply because you can rev higher and make more top end power.

 

How do you figure a 2.0LR is a waste? Please elaborate. A LR would reduce cylinder side wall loading as opposed to a standard 2.0L - This engine has been proven to be ideal for drag racing, great for what the OP plans on doing.

 

I think he is meaning that 2.0lr is waist of time extra rpm wise as that how most people look at it.

 

all the above are good.

2.0
2.0LR
2.2
2.3
2.4

etc. if you don't want to get into the custom crank / rods department, then stay away from 2.2 variants. (although this is the best of both worlds)

2.4LR is just 156mm rods with a piston with the wrist pin moved up 6mm to accommodate the longer rod. allows you to rev out alittle higher safer reducing side load and increasing rod ratio (good). (less vibration / smoother running / more balanced).

2.0LR = higher rod ratio / less piston sideloading / rev out higher.

2.4 = stock location wrist pin, 150mm stock length rods, and stock 100mm oem crank

2.3 = stroker with 6mm raised wrist pin 100mm crank, stock length rods 150mm

downfalls with 4g64 block = requires some stuff like a waterpump spacer. cyl walls are not as thick inbetween cyl's as the 4g63 so it can have headgasket sealing issues if surfaces are not really good. more prone to hg failures if the tuner is not good or bad machine work. dipstick / upper timing belt cover provisions necessary. weights more then the 4g63. very noticeable when you pick them both up bare.

downfalls of 4g63 = smaller deck height, wont ever have the rod ratio capabilities like a taller deck 4g64. less displacement

hope that helps some.

 

The car is being built for drag racing, I've already decided I'll probably just stick with the 2.0 and just build it from there. Sadly I wish I could have the extra trq from a 2.2-2.4l I read that the 2.0 hold up better to the power.

 

The standard 2.0 can rev higher than you will make power already. Longer rods than that are unnecessary and moving the wrist pin into thwack oil rings is not worth the gains. I think the LR is good for something like 50 rpm compared to a standard rod 2.0. On a 2.4 the ring location is worth the extra rod length since it is such a lower rod/stroke ratio. Just a fact to think of. Stock 8500 rpm motors from Honda have a 1.55 rod ratio which is lower than a long rod 2.4. The real enemy of high rpm on our engines is the weight of the rotating assembly. So a lightweight rotating assembly would be a better spot to spend money. A 2.4 with a longer final drive is a much nicer Car to drive than a 2.0 and can reach the same speeds in the 1/4 mile up until very high speeds. It PA also easier to get everything else to live at lower rpm like transmissions and valvetrain. Also parasitic losses are lower at lower rpm from accessories such as water and oil pumps. The high rpm oiling issues are also reduced.

 

So a lightweight 100 forged crank with long rods and light pistons on a 2.4 would be awesome along with a taller final drive.

 

well as I said I have both blocks sitting here it's just what I decide to do with them.

How do I get oil squirters installed on the 2.4l the local machine shop said they couldn't do this...

Meaning they probably didn't want to do it because it's a 4cyl...

 

don't waste your time with oil squirters in the 2.4 block...

 

Given the options either a 2.0 or a 2.4LR. If you already have a clean 4g63 block and plan on drag racing, the 2.0L is probably your best bet.