TO OP, I would go with English Racing for your build. Very few people are as knowlagable as them.

2.4LR all the way

 

lots of great info on here, thanks guys!

i was reading about the 2.1L being very good too. 4g64 block with 4g63 crank, can reliably rev up to 10,000.
might go with that w/ some 10.5:1 compression pistons on E85, with a 6262? lol
i think im setting my power goals to be in the 700 region! hopfully lol

 

2.1's are solid for sure. Still a better option than 2.0 imo.

But, for a 6262 and 700whp, your 2.1L's 10,000rpm rev capability won't really be needed.


So, call me narrow minded and Im really not trying to sound like a 2.4 ****, but a long rod 2.4 with 10:1 pistons (if you plan on E85'ing it all day err day) will still be more fun on a 6262 cause it'll still hit pretty good in the mid range.

 

Ill sell u my setup , 2.4 long rod stroker

4g64 block
100mm billet knife edged manley crank
156mm manley longrods

You will need manley pistons 10:1.

I also have a fullllllly built head to match.

I made 681 on pump with a bw

 

Go with 2.4LR build... I was in yr state before. After
Talk with John thru email & afews guy like AMS,Map & NLM..
2.4 is the way to go..

John, can share the gearing & tires knowledge
For the 2.4LR as drag motor.
Thank...

 

I cant share it but when the dog box comes out and is built around a 2.4 you can buy one



Aaron

 

I heard the 2.4 blocks having head gasket problems?

 

If your tuner sucks, yes then head gasket pop's are common. There is less material between cylinders so technically that means less material to help seal, but o-ring's help a lot and as long as the tune is proper you shouldnt have an issue.

 

2.4LR for a street car is an awesome combo for sure.

But, for a max-effort drag race set, the 2.0 or 2.0LR is the way to go. Having less material between the cylinders really becomes an issue on large turbo/big boost setups.

The tune can be spot-on, but when the cylinder pressure gets really high, the walls of the cylinder will move around a bit, the head will flex a bit between the fasteners, and the gasket can fail at that moment. A lightly honed 4G63 will help with gasket retention in this scenario especially when compared to a 4G64 based build.

I believe that the vast majority, if not all, of the really fast cars at Buschur's yearly race are powered by 4G63s with smaller cubic inches/bore diameter engines.

 

RRE the main evo shop here in Cali will not build engines with the 4g64 block.

 

Really? I'm glad I didn't buy one then.

 

im also looking into doing a 2.4lr setup, and had a few questions

i was looking at mapperformance's site and they have the manley rotating assembly with a 100mm crank and 150mm rods would that be a good setup, or should i go with the 156mm rods. also, what about compression? i wanted to do a 11:1 and rev it to 9k, or is that out of the question? (sorry im a former honda guy)

the turbo i have going on this setup is a hta gt3586r if that helps

 

150mm rod is a standard rod, not a long rod. 11:1 is doable but its a custom made piston. Im pertty sure on that part, I dont know of anyone doing an 11:1 piston off the shelf. Max cr currently available off the shelf is 10.5:1.

9,000rpm rev limit needs the long rod setup, it's not doable safely with a standard rod motor

 

so are the 156mm rods considered the "long rod" or is it also a standard?

 

156mm rods are for Long Rod setup.


Btw AMS use a 4g64 block that was strengthen on their drag evo.