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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #31  
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From: Teh internets.
Originally Posted by way2qik
2.4LR for a street car is an awesome combo for sure.

But, for a max-effort drag race set, the 2.0 or 2.0LR is the way to go. Having less material between the cylinders really becomes an issue on large turbo/big boost setups.

The tune can be spot-on, but when the cylinder pressure gets really high, the walls of the cylinder will move around a bit, the head will flex a bit between the fasteners, and the gasket can fail at that moment. A lightly honed 4G63 will help with gasket retention in this scenario especially when compared to a 4G64 based build.

I believe that the vast majority, if not all, of the really fast cars at Buschur's yearly race are powered by 4G63s with smaller cubic inches/bore diameter engines.
Oh no doubt, the 2.0 (and 2.1) is the way to go if the car is a dedicated straight line monster. Doesnt matter much how much mid/low range a drag car has when gear to gear shifts wont drop below 6,000 99% of the forums aren't that though, so its just good for peeps to be aware that that extra bit of displacement will really help the car feel lively on a fun/weekend/sunny day car.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #32  
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Going to pick up my 4g64 block this weekend to get started.
Im going with cp pistons (used them in my past 3 honda builds) 87mm bore 10:1

Still undecided on rods, who all makes 156mm rods? staying away from h beams, i was looking at the map ultimate duty's, but was curious if their is any others out there.

For a crank, i was looking at the manley forged. is the billet worth the extra money, or would the forged be good enough?

What waterpump and oil pump do i need to use? I also read that i need a spacer for the waterpump

im gonna reuse my evo 8 head, but get rid of the hks 272s for either kelford 272's or gsc s3's and kiggley springs and retainers with a ams intake manifold
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #33  
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From: Teh internets.
Originally Posted by ebp99si
For a crank, i was looking at the manley forged. is the billet worth the extra money, or would the forged be good enough?

What waterpump and oil pump do i need to use? I also read that i need a spacer for the waterpump

im gonna reuse my evo 8 head, but get rid of the hks 272s for either kelford 272's or gsc s3's and kiggley springs and retainers with a ams intake manifold
Most people just go with an OEM 100mm crank in their 2.4 builds with great results. I had one in mine making 600+wtq with no issues. It's being replaced with an Eagle 4340 100mm crank just because of future torque endeavors pushing into the 700+ range.

You can use 4G63 water pump and front cover (oil pump). There are spacers/adapters available for the water pump itself. I dont have any adapters on the pump to the motor, I just have a spacer on the pully. I believe I have a 4G64 water pump on my motor. I can't recall right now to be honest.

Definitely go as big of a cam as possible, a small 272 will choke the 2.4 up top. I use S3's and do love em, very awesome, flat, long power. Anything smaller than an S3 is pretty foolish because S3's have shown to do awesomely well on a 2.0 with a stock turbo. S3's are technically even a little small for a 2.4 IMO.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #34  
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I might just stay with the stock crank to save a lil bit of money.

Their is a guy here on the forum selling stm 650's, would they be good for it, or do they need a ported head w/ bigger valves, or can they be used with just upgrading the springs and retainers?
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #35  
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ive been doing a lil reading on different cams, and read the thread that ams did with the cam testing. i'd like to see a comparison between the stm 650's, kelford 280's and gsc s3's.
ive also heard a few people using the tomei 280's with great results.

what about kelford 288's? or would they be overkill

right now ill be using the 3586r, might step up to the 3794r next year

Last edited by ebp99si; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #36  
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That cam test is old. GSC has kinda become the defacto cam choice (AT least for Evo IX Mivec motors).

Get the Manley Forged for piece of mind (I've seen and heard of SOME 2.4's cracking on the #4 journal, I haven't seen enough to say its GONNA happen but for an extra 500-600 bux why not). Other wise the stocker is fine, esp if you aren't pushing the limits.

On the water pump English Racing sells a modified OEM one that fits perfectly.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:57 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ebp99si
Going to pick up my 4g64 block this weekend to get started.
Im going with cp pistons (used them in my past 3 honda builds) 87mm bore 10:1

Still undecided on rods, who all makes 156mm rods? staying away from h beams, i was looking at the map ultimate duty's, but was curious if their is any others out there.

For a crank, i was looking at the manley forged. is the billet worth the extra money, or would the forged be good enough?

What waterpump and oil pump do i need to use? I also read that i need a spacer for the waterpump

im gonna reuse my evo 8 head, but get rid of the hks 272s for either kelford 272's or gsc s3's and kiggley springs and retainers with a ams intake manifold
the stock crank is pretty strong, Drew at MAP was saying that a 4g64 with the 63 crank will handle loads of power. he also told me that the ultamate duty rods were on back order for awhile, but manley makes some good rods from what i've heard
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 12:01 AM
  #38  
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From: Colorado springs
Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
That cam test is old. GSC has kinda become the defacto cam choice (AT least for Evo IX Mivec motors).

Get the Manley Forged for piece of mind (I've seen and heard of SOME 2.4's cracking on the #4 journal, I haven't seen enough to say its GONNA happen but for an extra 500-600 bux why not). Other wise the stocker is fine, esp if you aren't pushing the limits.

On the water pump English Racing sells a modified OEM one that fits perfectly.


yeah im seeing that GSC is the way to go! i saw some thread that the HKS 272's kind of choke out and dont make as much power up top as the the GSC's do.

there are three people in my area running cosworth M2 on evo 9's and they seem to be making some good power with them and the cams sound mean as hell lol.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #39  
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From: Teh internets.
An HKS 272 is called a stock copy cam as a joke because theres such a slight difference between stock and them lol.

On a 2.4 the bigger the cam the better, you wont lost any mid range or low end whatsoever and it'll really help the motor stay breathing in the upper RPM range. I wish I could find a bigger cam for my IX, but the S3 I feel is the best cam to go with. Im not aware of anything larger in a MIVEC cam. All the good cams are for 8's lol like Tomei 280's and a few others.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #40  
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From: CT
I am installing GSC R2 cams on my 2.4LR motor.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #41  
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From: Teh internets.
The R2's are basically an S2 cam with more lift than an S3. I feel like the S3 and R2 are within a few % of each other in terms of the power theyll make on an identical setup. I'd really like to see a side by side comparison on one car with the only change being the cams.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #42  
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i'd also like to see the comparison test.

still deciding on which cam to go with

kelford 280
gsc s3
gsc r2
tomei 280
brian crower stage 3
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #43  
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Gsc s3 or R2, nothing else. Talk to aaron (aka john bradley) @ english racing, trust me he knows what he's talking about . You can pick up a set of R n R rods from them too, 156mm rods for your 2.4lr that weigh in at 160grams. Oring that block of your as the 4g64 has less materials between the cylinders to seal up. And get a reputable machine shop to open up the combustion chambers to match the 87 mm bores of the 4g64. You'll have a monster after that.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:11 AM
  #44  
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Rods are 600 grams
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #45  
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R2's are designed for the extra volume of a stroker with a built head.
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