There is no mbc and i dont think the oem solenoid is functioning properly. Who would u recomend for an email tune? Tscomptuned? Buschur racing? I ask cause i dont know of a tuner near me. Are 720 injectors to big for stock turbo?

 

Dude, are you stuck in the 1990s? Evo 8/9 rods are plenty tough. So tough in fact, there are plenty of stock evo shortblocks making some serious 450+hp reliably.

OP, if I were you, and was on a budget, I would pull the motor. Have the cylinders honed, block and head decked, and the crankshaft polished. Then you can buy all OEM bearings and piston rings and be golden. The machine work will cost you more than the parts likely, and all you're going to need as far as machinist tools are a feeler gauge set, piston ring filer, and a plasti-gauge set.

If you decide you have the extra money to spend, I suggest you buy forged pistons, rods, ARP hardware, and ACL bearings. Parts wise, you'll be in it probably $1700 if you opt for I-beam rods. Additionally, you'll probably want the block bored + honed with a torque plate, cranked turned and rotating assembly balanced, head and block decked, and the mains align honed. Adding it all up, you'll spend damn close to $2500-$2750 if you do all the work yourself. This is the correct way to do it. You're also going to want to double check the machine work yourself; which entails buying machinist tools such as a bore gauge, and micrometer from a respectable manufacture.

At that point, you may as well buy a Buschur/MAP short block.

So basically, on a budget you can do a stock rebuild. Also, try a leakdown test before you proceed any further to pinpoint where your leak is coming from. You can buy the tester from harbor freight, and it's fairly simple to use.

 

I have a 3" tbe,upper and lower intercooler pipes, 720cc injectors, and just purchased a hallman mbc. Besides a tactrix cable and software, what else i need for tuning?

 

run it till it pops and built it

 

Anybody have input on an email tune or know of a tuning shop near tulsa oklahoma or springfield missouri?

 

What makes you think that stock rods are tough? If you see how many end up coming out the side of motors then I would not say they are so great. If you are in there using a stock rod is stupid. Also recommend new oem bearings on a budget but ACL on a build is strange. New oem bearings are much more expensive than ACL or any other aftermarket brand. If not wanting a rod to exit the block is so 90's then I am happy to be there.

 

How bout we quit arguing over stupid **** and help me figure.some things out. Isnt that what this site is for? I now know i need for wideband gauge but wat is needed to log with it? Isnt there a conversion harness for it?

 

If you get a Tactrix cable you can do the flashing yourself. You can buy a serial adapter to log the WBO2. Tscompusa has a tutorial on his website and he sells everything you need. I am arguing for your benefit. I do not need help doing this stuff. I don't want you to do something stupid because people on here are spreading bad info. You can do whatever you like.

 

Good luck fixing your problem.

 

The best advice I can give to you is one that I wish I took when building my motor. Buy a 4G64 block and start from there, buiding it up over time till you have a complete short block, then swap the two. Of course you will be driving your current motor until you are ready to swap. Evo motors are built pretty stout from the get go, and I don't see an issue with you driving yours like it is until you are ready to swap the two blocks out. It sounds like a lot of work, but the benefits of being able to build while you are still driving yours is a pretty good thing. This way you have the chance to build an even more stout motor while having minimal down time.

 

Great advice!

 

If you say so, I mean what do I know I have done both style of motors, but good luck with that. Just cause MAP has bearings that will work with the evo rods to fit 1g dsm bearings doesn't mean it will actually work. But whatever its not my car good luck with it

Exactly, the evo rods are the same ones as in the 2g motors and there thin as hell. Compaired to the 1g rods they are pretty small. The fact that people do have higher power cars who beat on them daily and have no issues has more to do with the tuning rather then the parts inside the motor. There is a reason I make over 600 whp on a stock block and it holds together.

Most of the time they come out the end of the motors is because of 2 things, 1) being the rod bolts let loose, or 2) car is tuned to aggressively you get a hint of knock and now you have a window in the block. I agree with you on your bearing selection. Just make sure you get the acl race bearings they work the best and as he said they are pretty inexpensive.

 

After looking at the 3 sets of rods in my garage I will point this out for everyone who doesn't know. Evo and 7 bolt rods are narrower at the big end of the rod. The big end diameter is the same but the width is a good bit different. You can use 6 bolt rods in a 7 bolt motor but you have to grind the big end to fit the 7 bolt's narrower journal. By grinding that out to make it fit is that really worth doing? So technically I am wrong it will work, but why change the strength of the rod by grinding the **** out of it when its un necessary, and when for all that work and effort that would be going into it would be better just to do aftermarket rods and be done with it.

Deck height on a dsm sits for a brand new head is 5.200"

Min take off for the head to have proper deck height would be .015"

total deck height 5.185 is your deck height on a stock 2g dsm

Now looking at the evo deck height here is what the shop manual says min thickness of hg is .008 and the Cylinder head grinding limit of gasket surface mm (in)
*Total resurfacing depth of both cylinder head and cylinder
block is also .008

total deck height limit is 4.720 − 4.728"

Now just for everyone to see who needs a rebuild make sure you notice all this before your go and do some dumb ****. Can you make it work yeah sure you can point I made is the deck heights are different, so make sure you understand everything completely before you go and try to tell people something that isn't totally true.

 

You must have a bad manual because a dsm and evo block have the same deck height and same bore spacing. How else do you suppose that the rods and pistons are interchangeable? The crank is the same unit between a 7bolt 2G and an evo. If the evo deck height was different evo rods and pistons would ram through the head on a dsm and a dsm with evo rods and pistons would be like around 3:1. The 4G64 has a taller deck by 6mm.

 

I must have a bad manual being I got all that info straight out of them. I cannot find my 1g shop manual for the life of me, or I would have given you those specs too. My luck its the only place I haven't looked in the car. I understand where your coming from and I understand I really do. And one thing I will disagree with is the difference would be in the pistons themselves. Being they are 8.8:1 not 8.5:1 the dish is a bit different inside. With everything I posted .300 isn't much and can be made up for in the pistons which would make since being it has extra compression.