Notices
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine management to the best clutch and flywheel.

Extra fun day, version: Oil pump failure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #16  
todd6027's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 13
From: Ireland
which balance shaft delete
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #17  
Erik@MIL.SPEC's Avatar
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (94)
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,695
Likes: 24
From: Los Angeles
I was recently looking into offering blueprinted oil pumps for built engines, but got a tepid response. I may still do it for my car, with the possibility of offering the service on a part-by-part basis. We would only use new oil pumps as cores.

If anyone is interested, PM me. I have no idea on cost. To give you an idea of what might be done, see this article here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...eprinting.aspx
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #18  
psphinx81's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,597
Likes: 2
From: Buffalo, NY
Originally Posted by todd6027
which balance shaft delete
It's a Buschur motor so the BR balance shaft stubby
Reply
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #19  
BEKevo's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Ventura, Ca
Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
I was recently looking into offering blueprinted oil pumps for built engines, but got a tepid response. I may still do it for my car, with the possibility of offering the service on a part-by-part basis. We would only use new oil pumps as cores.

If anyone is interested, PM me. I have no idea on cost. To give you an idea of what might be done, see this article here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...eprinting.aspx

-- That would be awesome. No one offers such a product/ service currently, AFAIK.. I must have missed that one. Please do
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #20  
Aby@MIL.SPEC's Avatar
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (161)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 13
From: San Elijo Hills, Ca.
My vote is for timing belt too tight.

Only time i have seen this before is after someone replaced/adjusted the ecentric belt tensioner after a belt or engine modification.

I personally havent heard of 1 taking place on a oem set ecentric.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 06:25 AM
  #21  
FathouseFab's Avatar
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
From: Indy
Its big rpm and sucking the pan dry. The evos have a much nicer oil pump pickup than the 6 bolts do and eat oil pumps less. The kiggly HLA helps keep oil in the pan as well. The only way to fix the problem is to eliminate it. Like Marcos dry sump setup.

Log oil pressure on a big power car doing pulls or launching on slicks.

I ran Daves baffled oil pan in mine for some extra insurance as well.

Fathouse
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #22  
ExViTermini's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 13
From: Virginia
Some have even modded the pickup to stick into the back of the pan.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:04 AM
  #23  
WHTEVO's Avatar
Evolved Member
20 Year Member
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
From: COLORADO
I have lost one. My car was a "drag" car running high rpm's. No engine damage since i caught it early on. Good luck.

Aaron
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:14 AM
  #24  
antilag_200's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (49)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 805
Likes: 4
From: Lansing
Yeah I wouldn't necessarily say that the evo oil pick up is better. For one the lazy engineers kept the pick up at the front of the engine.

In regards to the OP seizing the pump, the only things that are going to do that is :

1) sucking in air causing film strength loss
2)side clearance of the spur gear to casing
3)Over hang load on the end of the shaft, as I was saying in my previous post, there is 40 odd pounds of equivalent weight hanging off the shaft for the given rpm point.

Last edited by antilag_200; Apr 24, 2013 at 07:25 AM.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:30 AM
  #25  
sr20det91's Avatar
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (59)
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 1
From: Deale, MD
An overtightened timing belt is hard to achieve unless you REALLY mess up installing the eccentric pulley. The hydraulic tensioner only allows so much tension to be put on the belt. That being said, the 1st place I would look would be the stubby shaft. Some argue that not having the liner support of the balance shaft puts side load on the pump gears and bearings.ESPECIALLY IN high HP applications. Thats why a lot of folks prefer to run a full length, machined front shaft.

As-far-as damage, you won't really know until you tear the motor down or at least pull oil-pan and cooler. I would pay very close attention to the oil pick-up and what comes out of the cooler and filter housing.

It sounds like you caught before anything crazy expensive happened. You may get away with a new front cover and a good clean out.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #26  
sobo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
To be honest, I think the previous owner put 10w30 in the motor. I thought he meant 20-50 since that's basically what anyone who is anyone runs... Maybe I was wrong though.

I figure the pump failed from doing a 9000rpm pull, with too light of an oil.

The timing belt was nicely installed, STM did it. They do these daily so I'm sure they have it down by now lol.

Maybe I'll look into a baffled oil pan.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #27  
4RETECH's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (86)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 12
From: Orange/Rockland, NY
I would still drop the pan and check all the bearings for debris on the crank.

My buddy had one let go and started knocking.

Mains were toast, but at least there wasnt much damage if any to the crank. Got all the bearing material out of the pan.
Changed the pump and all bearings, washed it all out.

Good luck to you.
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #28  
sobo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
Originally Posted by 4RETECH
I would still drop the pan and check all the bearings for debris on the crank.

My buddy had one let go and started knocking.

Mains were toast, but at least there wasnt much damage if any to the crank. Got all the bearing material out of the pan.
Changed the pump and all bearings, washed it all out.

Good luck to you.
Pull the motor last night. After working on it for 6 hours and not being able to get the TOB to release from the clutch, I gave up lol.

I really should have pulled the pan off the bottom but I decided to pull the engine anyway (regretting it.... lol!)
Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #29  
sobo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo, NY
Well, finally got the motor apart. What a fiasco... I put the engine on the stand without taking the rear main seal off, which took forever to get off...

Let me know your thoughts on what you see below...






rods:





crankshaft





Worse main







What are your thoughts on these rod caps? I can't tell if the bearing was spun or not...

Reply
Old Apr 24, 2013 | 12:43 PM
  #30  
mullen's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
From: the moon
Wow sorry to hear that.
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:25 AM.