Well, re-assembling the Evo after installing some new valvesprings, get all the timing belt locked down. Time to re-install the serpentine belt. I insert a 1/2" drive extension into the tensioner and crank it over to where you can lock it in place with a screwdriver, but I never get there SNAP, and the cheesy cast aluminum hole breaks apart where you insert the extension.

Now checking on here, I've seen a few other cases of this reported. That tensioner has a LOT of spring tension and I have been wary of this happening ever time I have had to do this (track/race car, gets worked on a lot). The amount of force required on a 1/2" ratchet to crank it over enough to insert the screwdriver is about all I can manage on a 1/2 inch ratchet.

I suffered the highway robbery and ordered a new one, but is there anything any of you have done to minimize the risk of this happening again?

 

get one of those serpentine belt tools with the different adapters. I think lisle makes it. it is a long bar with multiple adapters. the extra length on the bar reduces the amount of force you would need to pull it back. and you an use it for multiple cars. just a suggestion. good luck.

 

You talking about this?


I like Lisle's tools. That would def allow more torque. I just assumed that square recess was sized for a 1/2" drive extension. I need to measure the next one and make sure it is not slightly bigger. If it is, the extension could be turning slightly in the hole creating a lot of wedge force.

 

Why not just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar from Craftsman or something? I have been using that since I bought mine new in 2005 and have never used anything different... No need for a $60 wrench when a $20 one from Craftsman will do...

 

I was using a craftsman 1/2" ratchet with stubby extension, and the hole broke. I was simply asking if there is something I am missing here. It takes a lot of torque to power that thing over to the point where you can insert a screwdriver/allen wrench and lock it. More torque than I like putting on something made of poor quality cast aluminum.

And I have an extra long SK breaking bar, which would also work, and also make it even easier to break it.

 

[QUOTE=JDavenport;10816609]I was using a craftsman 1/2" ratchet with stubby extension, and the hole broke. I was simply asking if there is something I am missing here. It takes a lot of torque to power that thing over to the point where you can insert a screwdriver/allen wrench and lock it. More torque than I like putting on something made of poor quality cast aluminum.

And I have an extra long SK breaking bar, which would also work, and also make it even easier to break it.

The bolded part is your problem right there!

 

same exact thing happened to me. Where are you getting the new one from?

 

Something else to consider, depending on how the wrench is orientated, you might have to apply a lot more force to get the same torque around the tensioner pivot.

You can feel this pretty easily. Position the wrench, gauge how much force it takes to move it a little, change the angle and compare. Adjust to minimize the amount of force you have to put into it.

 

Mine did the same thing last year. I welded it back up and reinforced all the corners. Seems a lot stronger now.

 

Broke mine the same way as well. Found that you can use oil filter pliers around the tensioner and it works great. Screw buying a $150 belt tensioner.

 

I thought of this, but you only have a small arc of usable swing with the front suspension in the way. But I will study to see if I can get a better angle.

 

The exact same thing happened to me about a month ago, STM hooked me up with a brand new oem for $140 and I had it in my door 3 days after. I called the local delearship and they wanted $220!

 

Yea... I dont know why all you guys dont just improvise. Its a flaw from the factory because I use a long breaker bar and was doing everything just right and it broke. My first Evo but not my first time with their serpentine belts lol.

Just take a pair of vice grips and clamp it tight around the square and then take a long 3/8th extension and put it between the opening in the vice grips and walla. You can turn it all the way back to lock. To hell with 200 bucks for a broken chip off a tensioner that works perfectly fine.

 

Here i am ghettoing it by using a prybar. One pry is 1/4 rotation then I just use my hand to hold it in place while repositioning the prybar for the next rotation.
When mine broke while using the breaker bar. I had also thought the spring packs quite the punch. However if you hold it in place with your hand or something else it never gets the chance to build that momentum to go all crazy.

 

Jim, this same thing happened to me last month when I was doing my cam/timing belt install. Luckily, mine broke right as i got the allen key in the hole, so i was able to get the belt on and tensioned. Gonna have to replace it whenever I do the belt again. Must me made of chines aluminum or something, as often as this seems to happen.