For the cost of what you've spent welding two bungs to measure your backpressure would be peanuts.

 

Mustang dyno #'s so i'm on a full built 2L ported head/ams t3 turbo kit etc. It is very frustrating. If I got these #'s stock i'd be doing back flips.

 

Sorry assumed for some reason you were stock.

 

Car made it back to my house today after being at DB's for 6 months. Upon initial startup after getting it off the transport truck the ACD lights were all on and the idle was around 2500.

Just as the first step I made a physical observation of the muffler and it's not a Varex as there isn't a flapper valve in there. and it seems that there isn't anything in the muffler blocking anything.

 

I take that back car won't idle normally now. Car has been running at 2000+ rpms for 10 mins now.

 

Check all vacuum lines going to the intake manifold and ensure that the throttle plate is 100% closed.

Here is a link to diagnose the 3 ACD lights.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/9356352-post10.html

-Jamie

 

Jamie,

Cool thanks. I will see about doing this. As of right now I will not enjoy the car but let it sit what its done mostly for its ownership of 6+ yrs.

 

I've added Dyno sheets on the first post on page 1. Tell me what you think..

 

What head and valve springs are in your head now?

 

Car*

 

Whatever the Buschur Head Stage III comes with. I think they are some brand he sticks in them.

- Custom BR dual stainless steel valve springs
- BR titanium retainers
- New Valve Seals
- BR stainless .5mm over intake valves
- BR stainless .5mm over exhaust valves
- Stainless Oring around each combustion chamber
- Complete port & polish job
- Stainless Steel O-Ring

 

Supertech duels, not sure which combo but probably enough for bigger cams.

 

The best thing is to physically measure the back pressure between the turbo and the head. My guess is improper cam degree and overlap or an exhaust restriction somehow.

-Jamie

 

How would one do this?

 

Josh, I already explained how to do this.