Getting parts together for a long rod 2.4. Currently on an old Green. Should I get a BB Black or get the rest of my parts and go Full Race T4 TS with a HTA3582 or EFR7670/8375?
Will be used mainly for track days, time attack and street. Not really a daily driver and no drag racing.
Will be used mainly for track days, time attack and street. Not really a daily driver and no drag racing.
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Will be used mainly for track days, time attack and street. Not really a daily driver and no drag racing.
Unless the car is a dedicated unlimited class race car, driven by a top tier driver, with full suspension, and crazy aero, you don't need anywhere near the kind of power a 2.4L with an FP Black let alone a HTA3582 is putting out. 400 whp is a LOT of power for a track car. For TT I would never go above 500 whp, and that immediately puts you into TT1 competing against some insane cars. Fully built C6Z06s, Vipers etc. My car is still a fat pig and runs 421 whp to hit P/W limit for TT2. Ideally I would drop weight and reduce my power to about 400 whp.Originally Posted by EvilTechnology
Getting parts together for a long rod 2.4. Currently on an old Green. Should I get a BB Black or get the rest of my parts and go Full Race T4 TS with a HTA3582 or EFR7670/8375?Will be used mainly for track days, time attack and street. Not really a daily driver and no drag racing.
I personally wouldn't go any larger than a BBK-3B or FP-Red size. Something in the 58-60 lb/min range. You would be able to run low boost with all that displacement, and have a nice fat power band.
Thanks, I'm leaning towards a stock frame at this point simply because of funds. I'm doing a 2.4L because it's just easier to get the parts together while still driving the car on the old bottom-end.
FWIW I'll only be doing it for fun, bragging rights perhaps, but definitely not to be competitive, so whatever class I'm in is cool.
I wouldnt do a stock appearing since you want to stay on 92. EGT gets wacky over sustained periods and things get unhappy. Choices are E85 or adding Torco race concentrate every other session. That being said I would recommend nothing smaller than a 30R for 92 and twin scroll for the response aspect. Thaine (Tahoe55) runs a 30R in his 2.0L and does very well at 430whp-450whp. Even our fully caged crazy ITE car only runs 450 normally but can be turned up to 490 for special occasions 
Here is Thaine's thread to skim through-
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-hta3076.html
and
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...road-race.html

Here is Thaine's thread to skim through-
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...e-hta3076.html
and
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...road-race.html
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I agree with blackenedwings on this one. A BB Red would be nasty and it has the same turbine wheel as the Black which translates into relatively low exhaust backpressure levels for that turbo. A MAP EF 3.5, although it is JB, might be interesting on the 2.4L.Originally Posted by EvilTechnology
Thanks, I'm leaning towards a stock frame at this point simply because of funds. I'm doing a 2.4L because it's just easier to get the parts together while still driving the car on the old bottom-end.
Thanks Aaron, I'll check those threads out. Thought I had made my mind up, but since you're the one tuning it, I will revisit the larger turbos.
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Is the excessive EGT problem with these stock appearing turbos the result of restrictive design of MHI's TS 10.5 casting? Incidentally, what about static CR in the OP's build? Is there a limit to what CR he should run given the 92 octane and the track application? In the past you have mentioned 9.0:1 as a safe limit on pump.Originally Posted by JohnBradley
I wouldnt do a stock appearing since you want to stay on 92. EGT gets wacky over sustained periods and things get unhappy. Choices are E85 or adding Torco race concentrate every other session. That being said I would recommend nothing smaller than a 30R for 92 and twin scroll for the response aspect...
I skimmed through those threads and checked out the Torco concentrate. I wouldn't have a problem running enough of it to make 95 octane.
So let me ask you this Aaron, or anyone really....if I don't stay stock frame, I'd use my Full Race TS T4 manifold and hot parts....so what is the smallest Twin Scroll T4 turbo I could get?
Aaron would recommend the HTA3582 or go down to a HTA3076R? Does the 76 even come in a T4?
Or would you recommend I go to a TS EFR turbo?
So let me ask you this Aaron, or anyone really....if I don't stay stock frame, I'd use my Full Race TS T4 manifold and hot parts....so what is the smallest Twin Scroll T4 turbo I could get?
Aaron would recommend the HTA3582 or go down to a HTA3076R? Does the 76 even come in a T4?
Or would you recommend I go to a TS EFR turbo?
Sparky- I had planned to go 9:1, but for sure not more than 9.5:1
Got a good deal on a Buschur baffled oil pan. Can I use a Cosworth or Tomei crank scraper with a 2.4LR?
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It will have to be modified a bit from what I last remember.
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I had to cut down my Cosworth scraper a lot to fit a 100mm stroke. Lots of grinding and bolting it back on with rotating the crank to clear everywhere at around 3mm I believe. Cheap investment for a track car though. I think sending the Green for a BB+HTA upgrade would be sweet.
That's an idea, wonder what their turnaround time is. I think for now I'll keep the green on and then maybe do something else once the motor and clutch is broken in and bugs worked out etc. I don't drive my car often so the break-in period for a clutch would take me months, which would mean driving for months without a full tune on a big turbo set-up.
This way I can also put more $$ towards the engine build.
How is Head Games for port work?
This way I can also put more $$ towards the engine build.
How is Head Games for port work?
deylag
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I also haven't seen that many people using bullseye turbos. You could consider those.






