Heyy evoM !
As u can see I am new on here, and this is my first post... I own a 2003 evo 8 with full external bolt-ons ( exhaust, intercooler, radiator, 71 HTA turbo "aka fp white", external waste gate, meth kit, cams) ... I drive the car everyday, and usually road courses or off road.. I am looking to go stroker 2.3 L after what I read on here... I know there are kits already there where u can just buy ready, but I heard that if you sour e the pistons, rods, bearings, cranck alone, it would end up cheaper ??
If so I would want to go that way to save up and go for the fp black or possibly if I decide to get a gt35 ... Can anyone help me who did a similar build, in telling me what parts he got and size etc.. So I can get the same exact... I am new to imports.. I am used to my built camaro SS, I love US muscle cars, but I decided to go on the EVO experience, to see what's all the fuss about the EVO's.. Point being I am completely new to imports..

Sorry for longg text..

Any help appreciated!!

Thx again

 

Bump! No support...

 

If your looking to build one of these motors I would contact a vendor on here, they do ship and I have read so many horror stories about people trying to out motors together them selfs or having some local shop do the work and having it fail. Also you said nothing about your goals, I've seen people on here with fp blacks on stock motors with the right tuning.

I have a built 2.3 with a fp red, I put it together as a streetalbe track car and like the combo so far. I could dig up the parts list if you want pm me, I'll help you out if its just the parts you want.

 

Yeah Ive heard of such problems, I want to buy the parts I need and let my shop install, cuz I asked and they charged TOO much for a 2.3 stroker if they want to get it for me... My goal is to have a street able evo, but also able to kill in hill climb or road course events... From what I've looked around, if I pair my current turbo, with a 2.3 stroker, I would have a killer evo for road course events... Fp white (71 HTA) ... And I thought If I get an fp black on side, I can bolt it in my current turbos place when ever I want and have a respectable evo for straight line, right?

From what I am seeing, the fp white and my bolt-ons with a 2.3 stroker and a GD tune, I'll be in the 400 awhp range.. Which is gd for a road course or street able evo..

But what do I expect with an FP black?

My bolt ons include : ported throttle body, intake manifold, cams, upgraded intercooler, meth kit, fp white (external waste gate), magna flow exhaust, down pipe, test pipe, injectors, fuel pump, and exdy twin-plate clutch..

 

Fp black would be 600+ awhp. If you are ok only looking for 400awhp you don't need to build a motor, the stock motor should be fine. But if you want the fp black I would build the motor.

 

What would you suggest for a stroker kit? I am looking to build my engine, because I will be getting the fp black soon... Well with a fp white and stroker 2.3 , would I be able to get more 400 awhp and tq out of the evo..?

 

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...f11425133ba09c
There you go

 

Um...I would honestly shell out the extra cash to have someone who has built a ton of these motors do it over someone doing it for the first time regardless of how many other different engines they have built. MAP has good machine services and is a bit cheaper than AMS/Buschur as another option. My friend didn't listen to me on this and ended up having to rebuild the motor again.

That being said you can piece together your own stroker kit. Pick a crank - OEM 4G64, Manley, winberg (crazy expensive but light), etc. Pick your pistons - Wiseco 1400HD's seem to be the norm here. Pick your rods - MAP Ultimate Duty, Manley Turbo Tuff, Manley 300M alloy, Carillo, etc etc etc. Pick your bearings (I would STRONGLY suggest ACL race bearings - they are hard to get but are the best imo). Pay someone to assemble/balance/etc - and again I would STRONGLy recommend that you use a shop who has built MANY of these motors.

Now about road courses and hill climbs. . . Plan to spend good money on oiling solutions or kiss your brand new motor goodbye. These cars have terrible issues with right hand sweepers and if you plan to use good tires you need to at least do a modified wetsump (ams/bushcur pan), an oil pressure gauge w/ warning light, and a HLA to keep oil from pooling in the head. An accusump is also a good thing to look at in addition. This however won't 'solve' the issue and if you are on a track with the right layout and have sticky tires/the ability to drive them to their limit, you will still have issues. So if you are seriously looking to track the car hard (read compete here, de's you probably aren't going to be pushing enough to warrant it) a drysump is a must. Some people get away w wet sump solutions for extended periods and some get through 3 hours on their new motor (there are tons of posts on oil starvation catastrophic failures) all depends on tracks you will be running and your tires/driving ability.

Best of luck

 

Great info. Sdevo 13... I will probably go with a set up which has the parts you listed.. And yeah the shop I deal with specializes in evo builds, so not a problem.. But I want to build my stroker kit rather than let them get me one, because they are charging me about $7k including shipping and installation, which I don't agree with due to the fact that you can pick up a bucsher or AMS stroker for around $3k ... Am glad you brought up the oil issue, I am going to have to check on that part, because before you mentioned it, I had no idea about it.. Thanks a lot!!

 

I recommend installing a stroker kit with any turbo larger than an FP Green.
One main factor that determines stroker kit cost range is the crankshaft, many use the the 4G64 Mitsubishi cast metal which is relatively cheap. Others use an aftermarket billet crankshaft which is much lighter & would withstand higher power levels but it's expensive, would make the kit cost $1k - $1.2K more.

 

From what I've seen around, a lot use the 4g64 cast crank.. But I don't feel it's a safe rout tom go with, I don't want to go with an over the top stroker kit, but I want one that would be able to stand 600 awhp (my goal max : 700 flywheel hp)... So I looked around and I want to go with the Wiseco 85.50mm (+.020" Overbore) pistons, and Brian Crower H Beam Rods... Am debating whether to go with the Eagle 4340 Forged Crank (100mm) or Manley Billet Turbo Tuff Crank (100mm)... Obviously the billet crank is the best option, but is it worth paying the difference over the eagle to get the Manley crank? Wouldn't the eagle be enough for my goal...

What do you think of the piston, rod, either crank options for my 2.3 l stroker kit.. Good combo?

 

Based on my experience, It would be much more economical & convenient if purchase the entire kit from brian crower, it includes their rods, billet crank, & pistons. The pistons included in the kit are usually either CP or JE, both are equally good as the Wiseco. Otherwise, it would cost much more if you purchase each part from a different vendor.
You'll have to purchase the bearings (Cosworth or ACL) & head studs separately.
If you need any further information regarding ordering & shipping then let me know.

 

If you are worried about a stock 4g64 crank breaking I would highly recommend an I-beam rod they will stand up to a lot more abuse. H-beams are good for weight savings but to get an h-beam that's going to stand up to the same abuse you are looking at 1k$+ on rods to go with carillos or other expensive options. Most of the other h-beams have similar power constraints to eagle rods which you don't want to push more than 600whp with.

 

Let's say I go for a full stroker kit, the brain crower offers a 2.4 l stroker with (86mm) pistons, and the their (102mm) crank, and either Steel Econ rods or billet rods.. I want a 2.3 l kit, and would prefer 85.5 mm pistons , and 100mm crank... Am looking at these options, tomika 2.3l , eagle 2.3l , or the AMS 2.3l ... If you have any experience or knowledge with any of them, what do you advise or think about them?

Besides the stroker kit, what do I need to complete the engine, and run it ?

Awesome support for this forum till now, thanks alott!! (learning day by day)

 

When you purchase a stroker kit, brian crower or any other brand, piston bore is optional & so is the compression ratio. Naturally, the displacement would be less than 2.4L if pistons are less than 86mm.
The AMS kit is a good bargain, but I don't think that the crank included is billet.
to complete the engine, you would need a head gasket, main & rod bearings, head studs. You might also require thrust bearings & main studs.