Follow this link:

http://www.lancershop.com/clutch.htm

The clutch extender rod at close to the bottom of the page, how necessary is this when I put my cusco twin disk unit in? The only place that has this part is the lancershop.com, and I've never heard of such problems. Anyone have a take on this?

 

I asked the folks at AMS about this before they installed my Exedy Single and they said it was not necessary. It appears they were correct as far as this clutch goes anyway, no problems to report.

 

Good enough for me, thanks.

 

bump. im wondering about this for my twin plate cusco also..

 

I was wondering the same thing...

I trust AMS's word when something is necessary or not,but on the other hand - Lancershop.com has completely blown me away with the quality and NECESSITY some of their exclusive products that they offer; Shifter bushings, clutch line (i know - they're not the ONLY ones), Stainless O2 housingetc, etc... so it makes me think twice and try to conjure up at least a couple other opinions on the clutch extender rod...

I know everythng seems alright without it, but I can't help to wonder - Can it be better?!

-Matt

 

Thats why Im polling the question, althought it *might* just be a bit too late for me (cusco goes in Tues)

 

tell us how the cusco goes. mine will go in, in a few weeks!

 

try it out.....why not......it's only like $35.....who cares, if it works, great........if you didn't need it, you're only out $35. big deal

 

Nope, waste of time. Think about it for a moment. The hydraulics are self-adjusting to allow for disc wear. What this extended rod does is put the slave cylinder's piston in the same position as it would be in when the disc wears down. Big deal, the hydraulics adjust for it! When it changes the position of the piston, the fluid is pushed back past the master cylinder into the reservoir. It is only when you slightly push the clutch pedal down that the port from the M/C to the reservoir closes and the fluid is allowed to build pressure and actually do anything. Adjust the rod at the pedal assembly to make it contact the M/C sooner. That actually accomplishes something. Just my 2 cents.

 

The clutch so far is insane. Much noisier than stock, but totally awesome grip and driveability is close if not better than stock. I'll give an update once I get to launch it hard enough to see what its made of. The old clutch took some serious beating (rarity) but looked fried....

 

Is yours VERY hard to get in gear? I think mines all ***ed up or something. Its hard to get out of gear, its hard to get in gear. It doesnt grind mind you, just the syncros dont want to let me in! The clutch is not draggin, I adjusted it at the pedal all over the place - had it biting at the ground and at the top. Im confused why im having these gear issues now.. maybe my tech didnt put the right fluid in my tranny

 

I wonder if this would also cure the high rpm balkiness that has been dicussed elsewhere as it might aid the clutch to release more quickly.

 

A few things i would check for you...on older dsm's i would say master cyl, clutch slave cyl is bad or just ****ty syncros....but you have a new evo so i am doubting its that since it was fine before the clutch job. First i would tell you to adjust at the pedal...you did that and it didn't work....so move on. Second, i would tell you to adjust the rod that goes through the firewall to the clutch master cyl....spin it out a bit. Third, bleed the system and check for kinks in the line maybe they removed the slave cyl from the tranny and accidentally spun it a time or two before re-assembly. Also start from scratch and re - install stock tranny fluid into it if you used something else. I (along with many other tuners including david buschur) feel that the stock fluid is the way to go. Maybe try a stainless clutch line. ( i use stock and don't see a need for it but its cheap and if that fixes something or helps ....then rock on. ) I would also recommend the lancershops billet (i think) or metal bushings ...for underhood and at the shifter assembly...they are one word ....amazing. All these changes together shouldn't cost more than $120 including the new fluid, bushings and stainless clutch line .....as well as some time. But do it fast....you say its not grinding now...but repeating this process over and over through normal driving will wear out your tranny. The last thing is this...incorrect install..if its off a bit...aka not used a alignment tool i have saw were it won't sit properly on the flywheel and can cause ingagement and disingagement issues. Hope this helps...
Dave

 

I have the same problem as you. I have an ACT clutch in car and I have adjusted and bled the system numorous times with no success. I finally went and ordered the extendor rod and when it showed up it was actually shorter than the stock piece. Of course it didn't work.

 

I have the rod, line and fluid sitting here as well as a freshly rebuilt tranny and a new sense of urgency when it comes to babying my ride on daily drives and only leaning on it when I absolutely must.

Im going to put all that stuff in and really start taking care of my ride, now I know where its "weak spots" are.