Start with the standard preload. http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Info_wastegate

 

Too much preload? Finally got the thing to budge.

Can't open the video links on my iPhone from the fp website for some reason.

 

Well, test drive showed me about 13 psi at that much preload. Should I condemn the wastegate? I have the adjustment rod almost bottomed out.

 

All of those youtube how-to videos as well as the FP video and the rule of thumb generalizations that half a circle plus two turns etc. Is fine and dandy IF we are given a brand new actuator. Sure, if the actuator is brand new then I guess those experts methodology is applicable. Give those Gurus a call and they probably will gladly help you(uh-huh, right!).

 

Judging from the image of your high-mileage, '03 MHI actuator which is extremely oxidized and has gone through uncountable work cycles while exposed to extremely high radiant heat....the general rules do not apply.

The stock, factory MHI spring is a 10# piece when new. Your high mileage example suffers from spring fatigue as it has cycled between two pressure points for several thousand miles. The deteriorated surface of the actuator spring in tropical conditions also adds to deterioriation due to pitting and oxidation.

Don't watch those boilerplate videos please. I am trying to help you so don't go wuss on me.

 

So, high mileage actuator springs suffer from fatigue. The MHI spring was a measly 10# when brand new. Yours is probably fatigued and sagged to about 7-8#. It is full open by 12#.

Furthermore, your turbo is configured with the 9.8 housing. The 9.8cm hsg. characteristically produces noticeably higher turbine inlet pressures in comparison to the10.5.

 

My issue is that the adjustment left on the arm was about 1/2 an inch. Loosened it and pretty much bottomed it out. Used the videos as a how to for preload. Getting the actuator on the flapper wasn't that bad once I removed the 90 rubber next to the condenser fan, the condenser fan, and the intercooler pipe mounting bolt. Loosened the top actuator bolt, removed the lower. Used that bolt as a pivot.

So back to my issue, condemn the wastegate as faulty? Browsing the marketplace and found a few hallman mbc, or buy a 3 bar map sensor and use my greddy boost solenoid. If wastegate is the culprit, these are the alternatives. Advice needed. Thanks.

 

Just remove the entire actuator assembly from the turbo(2 bolts, hose clamp, and cotter pin). Clamp the actuator rod in a bench vise with the threaded tip exposed. Cut 3 to 4 threads off the tip of the rod. This measures lengthwise about 1/4-3/8".

When you reassemble the turnbuckle tip onto the rod be sure to leave the backup nut off. Don't use it as it interferes with bottoming out the turnbuckle. The nut is unnecessary anyway, and as I mentioned, it interferes.

Bottom out the turnbuckle(w/o nut)on the now shortened actuator rod. Reinstall the actuator assembly onto the turbo.

Trust me, I have done a few of these. So, based on similar experiences, I am pretty sure that with the turnbuckle bottomed out your turbo's spring pressure should be up around 14# thus modded.

As you mentioned, you may eventually want to get that Hallman MBC as well. But, first resolve this spring pressure issue.

 

Whatever you do don't get a properly working WGA ($50) install it and adjust it properly.

 

Not sure what you mean by that........just sold a few spare Honda parts. So I'm able to buy a mbc or 3 bar map. No time to mod the wastegate yet, but switched to driving my truck again so I can down the evo for wastegate mod.

 

If as you advise, the OP is gonna go out and purchase a new WGA ($50), then he loses nothing by trying what I suggest before going out and spending his money since he would then be tossing his old actuator in the trash anyhow.

Overtime the spring in his vintage '03 actuator has fatigued due to work cycling between two load points also consider the effects of radiant heat from the turbine housing as well as surface pitting of the coil due to the marine/tropical environment.

Due to work cycling between two loadpoints and fatigue the spring will tend to sag or compress to an initial set point cracking and lifting earlier than it did when new. Couple this propensity to lift with the minimal 12# preload and the fact that his turbo is configured with a 9.8 housing and you have an ideal candidate for a modded stock actuator.

The 9.8 housing runs significantly higher turbine inlet pressures than the 10.5 does at any given shaft speed, all else remaining equal. So this exacerbates his flapper lifting early too.

He should be able to get away with just modding his present actuator, IMO. It doesn't cost him anything to try at any rate.

 

Finally had time to mod the wastegate arm.



I believe I cut off about 4 threads. The section I cut off disappeared after it was flung by the die grinder. Used the nut to make sure the link can be threaded on. Hope it works. Test drive after work.

 

Just get rid of the nut and thread the turnbuckle down all the way 'til it bottoms.

 

Think I removed enough.



This is is how much the spring is compressed while installed. Busy lunch break.

 

Boost now goes up to 15 on my gauge. I seen people say stock boost pressure is 18-19 and some say is 14-15. What is the oem boost level?