I just had the pleasure of removing my 6spd transmission and transfer case with the car on jack stands without removing the suspension cross member. While I was eventually able to muscle the transmission out by pushing the engine forward with a pry bar, I do not want to do this when I re-install the transmission.

I am also planning to pull the cylinder head to upgrade the head studs and install new cams. I will also install a new timing belt and water pump while I'm at it.

Being that the only engine mount (passenger side) mount currently supporting the engine needs to be removed to do the timing belt, I can either wait until I re-install the transmission, or I can pull the engine. If I don't pull the engine, I definitely will remove the suspension cross brace for easier re-installation of the transfer case and trany.

Given the convenience of working on the head with the engine removed, I am considering pulling the engine. After working on the head, I would re-install the transmission prior to dropping the engine back in.

It seems to make sense to pull the engine at this point; what does everyone think?

 

sounds like a better idea to pull the motor in your case. I pulled the subframe when I did my tranny swap but I wasn't doing any motor mods at the time, just tranny and TC. It makes sense to pull the motor since you need to drop the pass. side motor mount to do the timing belt and such... While the motor is out, clean up your engine bay and get it looking minty if it's not a DD

 

I've never pulled the engine and transmission so I don't know how much work that is. When I was doing my recent clutch job and after a epic fail of the transmission install (I won't use a pry bar on anything) I was watching a Youtube video where a mechanic was having trouble and he said, "Sometimes you have to use your most powerful tool - your brain."

So, I broke the problem down into separate issues and addressed each one. I won't go into the details here unless you are interested but that was followed by a snap tranny install. So, not so hard once you figure it out.

 

I voted 'Grow bigger muscles', from experience. I pulled my engine/tranny/ transfer case on jackstands in a small one car garage. Taking it out was easier then putting it back in imo. You don't need to remove the engine, but you need to be able to move it some to gain clearance. THe subframe should be dropped first and installed last, or at the very least lower it some to make it easier.

I ended up also removing the engine and had to deadlift a fully assembled shortblock several times from the floor, along with moving the trans and tc around the garage to make room for other work. I didn't use an engine stand or a cherry picker because there just was no room. It really sucked but I got a work out from it. Drink a ton of preworkout NOx and youll be able to muscle your trans back in.

 

If you have a cherry picker, pull the engine. Do what needs doing, reassemble everything and install it back in the car from underneath. It is so nice this way. Pull subframe now and install last.

 

haha damn right. Right after you take that famous pre-workout cocaine ****

 

Thanks for the responses. In hindsight, I would have removed the suspension subframe first. Moving forward, I plan to pull the engine; I purchased a hoist for about $150 at Pep Boys. This seems to make the most sense and should make the valve work and timing belt change much easier.

Any advice on whether to remove the intake manifold and / or the exhaust manifold before pulling the engine? They will both be coming off anyways, so I might just remove them first to provide some extra room.


On a side note, the 6spd trany gear selector lever is in a slightly different place & angle compared to the 5spd. This appears to make it more difficult to remove because it requires dropping the driver side down lower before pulling the trany off the engine. I'm thinking that leaving the subframe in place like EvoMoto recommends is probably a more viable option for 5spds.

 

I removed both when I did mine but if you have a cherry picker you can probably get away without removing either. You will have more clearance if you remove them though, and honestly either manifolds aren't that much work to take off.

 

When pulling the engine, whats the easiest way to deal with the power steering and air conditioning compressor?

 

If you drop everything out from the bottom, the a/c and power steering won't get in the way at all. I'm not sure about from the top.

 

I realize you are pulling the works so this reply is just for discussion.

I don't want to make fun of the people who did the Evomoto writeup because their info and photography are great. But, to characterize the transmission installing part of their otherwise excellent pages, it goes something like this - okay, the tranny is ready to go back in - long pause - well, that was a humbling experience.

Anyway, when I replaced my 5-speed the control housing was first removed. It interferes on the 5-speed too.

 

i voted bigger muscles too, but since your going to pull the head, just pull the rest and you will have all the room you need to do your timing belt.

 

I voted grow bigger muscles as well. I just did my clutch in my garage last weekend, on my back with jack stands. Putting the trans back in is harder then dropping it, just take your time and it will work out.
Mine is a 6speed too.

 

I slid the front subframe with engine, trans, transfer case, and front suspension still intact on some tires out from under the car. Used the engine hoist to lift the car up high enough to have it slide out the drivers side wheel well. Doing a full rebuild on a track car just made sense to pull it all out. Took myself and a fellow technician 1 hour and a case a beer. I will try and find some pictures when I get home.

 

A helpful tip in removing the tranny is to remove the motor mount studs sticking out of the top of it. If pulling motor and tranny from the top remove all accessories first. And get a load leveler for the hoist. Mandatory!