Cam Install - Did I slip a tooth??
Cam Install - Did I slip a tooth??
Just finished my build on the 2003 Evo.. Transfer case, turbo kit, FMIC, Exedy Triple, Injectors, AMS F1, etc.... Installed the GSC S2 Cams and AEM EMS Series 2.. having issues getting the car to start.
I am having trouble with the cam/crank sensor syncing so I can get the car started. Seems like a lot of timing related issues. I replaced the cam position sensor and am about to try and replace the crank sensor since the AEM will only detect engine rotation when I have it set as a 2g DSM crank angle sensor and I have a Evo CAS.. Then I decided to double check TDC on the Cams/Crank to make sure I didn't slip a tooth on the crank. Below are two sets of pictures, the first is putting the cam gears at the TDC mark on the valve cover. When I look at the crank TDC, it looks a little off to me..

This picture is with the crank set to TDC.. Does it look like I slipped a tooth on the Crank??

Thanks for your guys help in advance!
I am having trouble with the cam/crank sensor syncing so I can get the car started. Seems like a lot of timing related issues. I replaced the cam position sensor and am about to try and replace the crank sensor since the AEM will only detect engine rotation when I have it set as a 2g DSM crank angle sensor and I have a Evo CAS.. Then I decided to double check TDC on the Cams/Crank to make sure I didn't slip a tooth on the crank. Below are two sets of pictures, the first is putting the cam gears at the TDC mark on the valve cover. When I look at the crank TDC, it looks a little off to me..

This picture is with the crank set to TDC.. Does it look like I slipped a tooth on the Crank??

Thanks for your guys help in advance!
Last edited by memphis raynes; Nov 17, 2013 at 01:00 PM.
Read this!
Ah, much easier to read! Yes, that's right, when the cams are set on time, our crank mark is a degree or so BTDC, not exactly on "T". Likewise, if the crank is set at TDC, the cams are little advanced. Don't freak, it's not uncommon to see this on 4G63s. What causes this? We don't have a definitive answer for you, but when dealing with rubber timing belts and hydraulic tensioners, there is plenty of room for "play". There is also clearance between the crank pulley key and keyway, maybe the "eyeballed" TDC alignment isn't dead on, etc. So was our eyeballed TDC off? No, because we didn't eyeball it. We used a degree wheel and positive piston stop to find true TDC. The crank mark was 1°-2° BTDC, the intake cam looked dead on its mark and the exhaust cam actually looked a little (very little) advanced on its mark. Suffice it to say that however much your marks are "off" when stock, if at all, is simply the way it is. Why? Experience with 4G63s in DSMs tells us this, but something you will find easier to swallow is that unless you've already messed with the timing belt, it's definitely, without a doubt, 100%, dead-on time from the factory, regardless if a pulley's tic doesn't perfectly line up with its TDC mark. Note that we keep saying when "timing marks when stock". After you do anything with the timing belt, there is always the possibility that you messed something up. We've never been concerned about 1°-3°, but if timing is ever more than 4°-5° off after you mess with it, it's much more likely that you have a pulley one tooth off. In any event, line up TDC as close as you can. If anything is "off" just make note of it...that will be your target when you are done installing the cams.
Ah, much easier to read! Yes, that's right, when the cams are set on time, our crank mark is a degree or so BTDC, not exactly on "T". Likewise, if the crank is set at TDC, the cams are little advanced. Don't freak, it's not uncommon to see this on 4G63s. What causes this? We don't have a definitive answer for you, but when dealing with rubber timing belts and hydraulic tensioners, there is plenty of room for "play". There is also clearance between the crank pulley key and keyway, maybe the "eyeballed" TDC alignment isn't dead on, etc. So was our eyeballed TDC off? No, because we didn't eyeball it. We used a degree wheel and positive piston stop to find true TDC. The crank mark was 1°-2° BTDC, the intake cam looked dead on its mark and the exhaust cam actually looked a little (very little) advanced on its mark. Suffice it to say that however much your marks are "off" when stock, if at all, is simply the way it is. Why? Experience with 4G63s in DSMs tells us this, but something you will find easier to swallow is that unless you've already messed with the timing belt, it's definitely, without a doubt, 100%, dead-on time from the factory, regardless if a pulley's tic doesn't perfectly line up with its TDC mark. Note that we keep saying when "timing marks when stock". After you do anything with the timing belt, there is always the possibility that you messed something up. We've never been concerned about 1°-3°, but if timing is ever more than 4°-5° off after you mess with it, it's much more likely that you have a pulley one tooth off. In any event, line up TDC as close as you can. If anything is "off" just make note of it...that will be your target when you are done installing the cams.
um i would say that info is false. i have used 2 stock belts, and 2 gates belts, stock cam gears and adjustable. all of my marks have been spot on with the marks on the cover for the crank pulley and the marks on the valve cover.
i have done several timing belts on other cars as well and it has always been on point. to the OP i would re set the marks and try again. maybe the guy above me is right but i sure would not want to find out. so double check.
i have done several timing belts on other cars as well and it has always been on point. to the OP i would re set the marks and try again. maybe the guy above me is right but i sure would not want to find out. so double check.
I think I am gonna pull the timing belt and reset it. I would rather be too careful than be careless and just accept a 2-3 degree variance. Every car I have ever worked on has been spot on. I have invested way too much money in my car to do any guess work.. Since I am having timing issues and didn't before, I have to believe it is because of this.
Anyone ever come across the issue I am having with the AEM EMS settings for the Cam/Crank Sensor only working if it is set as a 2g DSM one??
Thanks!
Anyone ever come across the issue I am having with the AEM EMS settings for the Cam/Crank Sensor only working if it is set as a 2g DSM one??
Thanks!
Reset.
Also, don't put a ton of stock in the mark on the pulley and timing cover. Use the mark on the gear and the oil pump to make a determination. It is far more accurate, and if you have a dampened pulley they shift some with age.
I have done hundreds of these timing belts in my shop over the years, I have never seen one that was "a little off" unless it was a tooth off or the tensioner was not set correctly.
Also, don't put a ton of stock in the mark on the pulley and timing cover. Use the mark on the gear and the oil pump to make a determination. It is far more accurate, and if you have a dampened pulley they shift some with age.
I have done hundreds of these timing belts in my shop over the years, I have never seen one that was "a little off" unless it was a tooth off or the tensioner was not set correctly.
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