car was running fine before compression test. keep in mind i'm at higher elevation so lower compression numbers are fine. my results were from left to right. 150 130 140 150. cylinder 1 and 4 are fine, cylinder 3 jumps up to 150 with oil, and cylinder 2 stays the same with added oil. so i'm guessing valve train issue with cyl 2 and piston rings with cyl 3. none of these numbers concern me at the moment. my problem is; the car will start up but idle super rich (afr 10.0) and bogs out when I give it gas, I can slowly add gas and bring up the rpms and the afr's don't change. could adding oil to the cylinders for the compression test cause this? iv'e done in the pass when my car was stock and never had an issue. my car is also on speed density now. any input would be great. boost leak test will not help me out here, doesn't effect the car idling on speed density.

 

by the way I used 10w40 brad penn oil, come to think of it doesn't brad penn oil have oxidizers? if so that may be my culprit.

 

anyone help?

 

are you running e85? i just did a compression test last night and there was a SES light after from removing the sensor during the test. but i reset the battery and i turned on my car and it idled like crap but then realized i was on my 91 map because of battery reset. Please disregard this info tho if youre only on one map and didn't reset your battery! hope you figure it out OP

 

If it was running fine before the comp test---then its something you did during the test and it wasnt adding oil to the cylinder . pull the plugs, regap as necessary, check the leads for the coil and make sure those are secure to the plugs--thinking you have a misfire of some kind or its something you touched during your "testing"

 

Hook your coil packs up the wrong way? Not getting a good connection on one of your spark plugs?

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm on one map, but I do have tephra mod. I'll reload my map when I get back from leave. I retraced my steps and put everything back together correctly. Double and tripled check. I didn't reset the battery because I used a scan tool to erase the crank sensor code. I put new plugs in and gapped correctly. What I want to know is; does brad pen motor oil have oxidizers in it? If so this will cause the car to run rich and idle like crap. I know this because I tried to run Q16 and my car acted the same. How can I check if a coil pack to a crap?

 

Still need some input

 

Sugur in the gas tank???

 

How much oil did you put in that you think it would cause an issue? I wouldn't expect it be that big of a deal, so if you pull the plugs, is there oil on them?

 

I put a half a cap full. I've done this before with regular synthetic oil and had no issues. But I think brad pen oil has oxidants which could cause this. Same effects with q16 without a tune. Anyways I pulled the plugs and they were black. Only cause the car is running rich now. The plugs were fine when I pulled them the first time to do the test. I put new plugs in after the problem presisted. I'm stumped

 

This is old but did anyone ever find the fix?

 

I would imagine he went into his Alt Map when he held down the gas pedal while cranking the engine for the comp test.

 

I wish I didn't try to get my ride retuned yesterday

 

I messed it up more after the compression test and the boost leak test. Now I can't even step on it