1. How many miles are on your map engine?
2. What setup do you have? 2.0/2.0LR/2.3/etc
3. How much oil do you burn/consume?
4. How much power are you making?
5. Does map do their own machine work?

Trying to do some research and I haven't seen much posted on these engines in this forum.

 

The only thread I ever read on a MAP motor was from a 2.4 build that had a crap load of wear after very minimal miles. Looking forward to more feedback since I am in the market for a motor!

 

Buschur engine all the way!!! I'm not a Buschur cult member in fact I've never ordered anything from them but all the stuff I've read over the years, buy a Buschur engine and you will have zero issues.

 

You'll still add oil though. Nature of the beast

 

Some engines have more issues consuming oil than others. I seen buschur engine that consume a lot and some little, same for AMS. GTR engines we work with also have the same issue built by AMS, and some don't but a lick of oil.
ring gaps are normally a lot losser in built engines hence they will consume oil.

Heck my wife's brand new minivan with 9k on the clock burns half a qts. Honda says its normal I say b.s. for an OEM engine built tight where 0w20 oil is required.


I forgot to say that I started using AMSOIL and the issue magically went away.. gsrboi

 

Honestly Buschur or CBRD all day. Hell even STM has buschur build, and refresh their white RS motor that should tell people something.

I had one bad experience with a map product for a clutch back when I owned a dsm. And that was just a modified shift fork that they incorrectly machined. After that there is no way I could ever trust them with a motor build.

Drew. R

 

Will you two just kiss and makeup already?

In regards to this thread, I too and curious as to which motors people have found to consume oil relative to others. The challenge I see with a thread like this, other than the bangwagon folks as well as the bashers is that there are multiple variables that need to be taken into account.

For example, how are these engines being used? A strictly track car may have different results than a daily driven beast.

Also, the break in process in crucial to ring seat so if someone were to improperly break in the motor and then it consumes oil, its not a issue with the engine builder but rather the end user.

 

Agreed, I think any built motor will require a little extra oil added here and there. If you're still running the oil cooler it could have been just that the oil thermostat didn't open since its been so cold. Then if you went out and beat on the car it could have gotten warm enough to open that up and then you would obviously have to top her off again. But I still agree that a little oil consumption is normal and again as he said nature of the beast. If its consuming a lot all the time then I would worry, otherwise don't sweat it.

 

I agree with this but the break in process seems to be almost eliminated now day. I know most shops break the vehicles in on the dyno right before the tune. I always stick at least 500-750 miles on my motor before the tune.

 

Unless he was a girl and I wasn't married already.. lol

 

Right and I don't personally like this. I like to drive the car easy for the first couple thousand miles... varied speeds no wot pulls ect..

Variables that many folks don't consider
- did you clock the oil rings correctly. If not this could be a source of blow by. This if more common than most want to admit or even know.
- does the user realize that high output engines have to be built loose to take into effect the thermal expansion characteristics engine parts go through under high heat periods ? Hence when the engine is built loose it will have more blow by than tight built engines.
- is the end user using the right oil... using a dyno oil or any other low grade oil with a low flash point you can expect to vaporize some of the oil. It has been observed in some cases up to a qt between changes. And sometimes worst in turbocharged cars where the oil hits the turbo and becomes much
Hotter than in an N.A. car.

 

most shops- like ourselves- dont have the ability to put 500-750 miles on a motor- in a car that we are usually shipping halfway across the country- utilizing proper start up (aka priming the motor out of the car) procedures and fluids- makes break in quick and simple-

we generally prime- start on break in oil- run for a few mins- cut the filter open- change the oil- tune it- then have the owner change oil at 1000 miles-

1 quart of oil every thousand miles is considered on the higher end for us- when we look at a high hp motor- generally- in the past 2 years- the motors we have been doing consume about 1 quart every 3000 miles-

cb

 

I built mine. During break in I consumed about 3/4 of a quart. Since then about 1/2 quart every 2,000 miles. I run Brad Penn 20w50. I change it more often because it does break down faster and does see harder miles at the track and stuff.

Even on a built motor you shouldn't be burning a ton of oil. That would indicate improper ring gaps, ring clocking or valve stem seals.

My gaps are set to .024 top and .026 bottom. I usually run these gaps for higher than 30psi.

How much power are you looking to make? What turbo? What fuel? how much boost?

All this takes into account on what you build.

Related to the thread, my friend has a MAP 2.0 making around 600hp. Burns about 1.5 quarts every oil change.

 

I will have to let our customers comment on your other inquiries, but yes we do perform our own machine work in house with the exception of crankshaft polishing and balancing. We utilize a Kwikway boring bar, Rottler hone, and DCM resurfacer to perform the work and we use various precise measurement tools including a Sunnen dial bore gauge to ensure its perfect every time. I am not aware of a competitor of ours in this market that can make that same claim. You can find more information below, though I'm not sure why the majority of the pictures are of Subaru engines as the 4g63 platform is by far our most popular lol.

http://www.maperformance.com/blog/mn...ing-valve-job/

http://www.maperformance.com/virtualtour/

We have built 76 engines (with the vast majority being 4g63) since we became operational in our new facility in February of 2013 and dozens if not hundreds more were built in the 6 years before that. In regards to piston to wall clearance and ring gaps we are always within the piston manufacturer's recommendations with bias towards the tighter end of the spectrum for stage 1 shortblocks and the looser end for stage 2+. As Chad mentioned the one thing that we are not in control of in regards to our shortblocks is proper break in. It is, in our opinion, a vital piece of the puzzle in regards to longevity of a shortblock (including ring seating which can contribute to oil consumption) and we provide detailed recommendations on how to properly do so. Ultimately, whether it gets done that way or not is up to the customer.

 

torque plate?