Ok tonight ill open the fill plug and see if any fluid comes out.

Last night when I was working on the car I put it on jack stands and I put a level on the frame underneath the car and when the bubble was was in the center I took this to mean the car is level. Is this the correct way to tell, and then is the right time to check the plug?

Thanks for your help.

 

I wouldn't say you need to check it with a level. As long as the jack stand are all the same at the same height setting you should be fine. Most garages are pretty close to level.

 

If you're stuck doing it on your own, I find a vampire pump and duct tape are VERY helpful.

-Lift car, ensuring it's level
-Drain old stuff
-Slide tubing into fill hole; seal up GOOD with duct tape
-Overfill
-Pull tape off/pull hose out
-Plug immediately
-Drive around block a few times
-Raise car again (level)
-Pull fill plug, let excess drain
-Plug
-Profit

 

I wouldn't let the excess drain. Just pull the plug enough to verify fluid comes out, then plug it back up. Shep and TRE have both told me they do better overfilled..

 

I don't think I've ever let it level out completely, just until the flow has slowed down. Something about seals or some ****, can't remember.

 

The case has a vent. Overfilling won't cause seal issues..

 

Good to know. I'll try this out (leaving it overfilled) next fluid change.

 

The tail housing on the transfer case contains two roller bearings, one at the front and one towards the rear. Beyond the rear bearing is yet another cavity that contains oil. Oil draining from the rear cavity would need travel through both bearings. In my opinion some of the oil in the tail housing is never going to drain.

 

Some people have gone for full. In that case you have a leak through the vent.

 

When I drained my rear diff (ATF and LSD sides) and xfer case all the fluid that came was quite a bit lower than what I expected it to be. Is this normal? Was it not filled right from the factory or just a lot of fluid gets stuck and never comes out.

The fluid stuck to the Xfer case bolt was disgusting. Thick gunk, so it was good thing I changed it. I have only about 21,000 miles. I don't race it or anything. Probably wouldn't have hurt to have changed it sooner.

 

Mitsu rec's an initial change at 1,250 miles. Then every 30k for normal service, or 15k for severe service. I change every 10k, or more often depending on track days or autocross use.

 

There's a magnet on the drain plug. As long as the metal you find there is fine stuff, no chunks, you are looking at a normal situation.

 

Yes, that goop was normal. Most of it was likely from the initial break in. If you change the fluid again in another 20k, it won't be nearly as bad.

 

I just got done with my car, I wish I had a lift. Good news, as soon as I loosened the fill bolt a trickle fluid started to run out. So I should be ok! I also checked my diff and torque transfer mechanism and the fluid dripped out of the fill bolt on those as well. So I should be all winterized and ready to go. You think I should be good for another 20,000 miles?

I wish my mitsubishi service department would have let me know about doing the rec'd change at 1,250 miles. I have not seen that they recommended it to be changed that soon. The stuff attached to the magnetic drain bolt was very fine no big chunks or anything like that.

 

It's in the owners manual to make that early initial change. You should change the trans fluid too if you haven't already.

Sounds like your fluid levels are good.

And it also sounds like the metal on the drain plug magnet is normal buildup.