So my stock block is toast... credit to chamelieon for helping me diagnose my crank walk / thrust bearing issue here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tall-help.html

I have already ordered a new Buschur stage 3 2.3L shortblock. I am replacing the front cover w/oil pump gears, oil cooler, water pump, belts, complete gasket kit.

I am wondering what else I might need to do while everything is apart? Bear in mind I am on a very tight budget. I already don't have the money for this short block...

Do need to do anything with the head before I slap it on the new block? Can I reuse my ARP head studs? Should I tap and plug the EGR port in my head? I'm thinking about sending my intake manifold to buschur for porting...

Thanks!

 

I would send the intake mani to buschur for porting and while you're at it, might as well send in your throttle body and do the 65mm as well. I know it's a pain in the *** and a lot of money, but might as well get it done now and have a car to enjoy without having to do these mods later. Congrats on the 2.3L. I believe you shouldn't need to do anything with your head unless you work done on it as well. It's just a cylinder head ready to slap onto your 2.3L I could be wrong, but I'm sure there's other on here that can chime in if I am to be wrong.

 

More than likely you could put the head on there "as is" but it wouldnt hurt to have it inspected and cleaned up to make sure nothing is wrong with it. It shouldnt cost much to have done and could save you in the end. Congrats on the 2.3L

 

If you are doing a 2.3 get an ATI or fluidampr. It will help with vibration and could help the engine live longer. I would also do clearanced balance shafts or the ams/gsc balance shaft without weights. Avoid the stubby BS delete as it puts more stress on the oil pump.
You can't reuse your arp studs and I would recommend an OEM head gasket. Have the head checked and go from there. Its better to do it right then to do it again.
A kiggly HLA is also a good investment and ams pan if you go road racing.
Since your thrust washer went out, its possible you have some shavings in your engine. Its a good idea to replace your oil cooler since it cannot be cleaned 100% out. How did the rest of the bearings look?
A new clutch is also something to think about if yours is old.
There are a few different ways to start the fresh engine so do some research.

 

ARP Headstuds can be reused 3-4 times. Brake kleen the head of excess oil and blow oil passages with air. That will do fine. Once the new motor is running do frequent oil changes and that will take care of anything minor.

 

Ok great, will do, thanks! I'll check the head for flatness according to the service manual as well. It says to use a straight edge and feeler gauge. Standard value is .0020", Limit value is .008"

Is there no need to vacuum check the head for valve sealing?

Do I really need the fluidamper pulley, that's expensive?

What about sending my oil pan to buschur to be modified for $150? worthwhile?
Buschur Oil Pan Mod

 

What is your budget? It gets very hard to recommend engine parts for an evo that aren't expensive.

 

think you have it backwards.. .008 is standard and .0020 is limit.
right before you pull the head off the block when cams are out and all valves are closed you can do a leakdown test and at that time you can actually touch the valves and feel air leaking past them. tapping the valve top will release or loosen crud that could let the valve leak but few taps and nothing changes then you should get a valve seat cut and a valve lap and thats that as long as no valves are compromised.
the fluidampr is recommened but not a necessity, you can always add it later on.
oil pan baffles are good if your constantly are taking corners aka road racing and it keeps oil by the pickup area, or you can run an extra Qt of oil or do the kiggly HLA which will keep more oil in the pan than pouring and laying in your head.

 

Nahh its right. .0020 is two thousandths, 0.008 is 8 thousandths. He could have written it 0.0020 or 0.002 and 0.008 or 0.0080

 

^This, he had it right with a tolerance of min/max .002 to .008
You might as well get a Head Up Gasket Kit, you'll save yourself the nickel and dime route.
Depending on your current Catch Can set up, it's worth it to get a good set up, STM has some nice options.

 

Haha, ya my budget is basically nothing. I am practically going into debt with this as it was very unexpected... but I want to make sure I am doing it right the first time. I don't want any problems.

So I am really only looking for things that I really need or things that I should really consider that can't/shouldn't wait until later or would be very difficult to do later with the engine back in the car.

Also, I want to know if there are things I need to inspect/check/do before re-assembling.

 

New clutch, T-case build, Transmission Build, FP-Red. If you're going into debt I say go all the way.

 

Haha, I wish! I want to go FP Black eventually...

Yes I am definitely rebuilding my Exedy Twin while its out!

I was wondering about the trans though... Is it difficult to split the case to inspect the synchros and gears? I think that is something I should check over while its out considering how difficult it is to get out any other time.

 

If the trans was fine before, I would leave it alone for now. Clutch rebuild if needed or close. Fresh fluid for tranny and Tcase and call it a day.

I would wait on all things not need for the motor swap. You said you are already on a limited budget. I would replace all gaskets, reuse your ARPs. Defiantly check over the head and valve guide seals (cheap and easy to replace). Clean anything you can. The outside the motor parts like fluid dampener, intake manny, and any other outside part can be swapped later. Sure its easier to do while apart and out, but it can also lead to a harder to diagnose car if there are any issues that come up.

 

OK guys I am just about ready to pull the motor out. I have the hoist and I am going to pull the motor and trans out together as one out the top.

Any tips?

I was going to hook up the chains to the 2 lift points on the head, but what about hooking up to the trans somewhere? I don't think it will balance right if i am only hooked up to the engine. I see some crazy apparatus in the service manual that they hook to the trans but I dont have that obviously. Help!