comp clutch stage 2 user's input needed
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From: San Elijo Hills, Ca.
comp clutch stage 2 user's input needed
I am looking for a clutch that requires less pedal effort.
I am currently running a exedy twin hd.
i have hardware in 1 of my ankles from 3 bone fracture & the pedal pressure is a little too much for me when stuck in traffic.
so, i am looking to lighten the effort & the comp stg 2 seems to be favorable & popular.
I previously had a act mb7-hdss set-up & i was hoping to have less effort with the hd twin.....not the case for me.
I dont drag race or launch my car, just need to hold onto as much torque as possible.
can any & all actual users of the comp stg 2 clutch comment on their torque holding abilities, pedal modulation relative to oem, act clutches or exedy twin hd.
Thanks
I am currently running a exedy twin hd.
i have hardware in 1 of my ankles from 3 bone fracture & the pedal pressure is a little too much for me when stuck in traffic.
so, i am looking to lighten the effort & the comp stg 2 seems to be favorable & popular.
I previously had a act mb7-hdss set-up & i was hoping to have less effort with the hd twin.....not the case for me.
I dont drag race or launch my car, just need to hold onto as much torque as possible.
can any & all actual users of the comp stg 2 clutch comment on their torque holding abilities, pedal modulation relative to oem, act clutches or exedy twin hd.
Thanks
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; May 1, 2014 at 09:22 PM.
Aby...
I have lots to say about clutches, and specifically "over clutching" Evos.
I'll spare much of that and simply state a couple of things.
1. The pedal effort on my particular car, is SLIGHTLY heavier than stock. But as you know, the stock pedal on most Mitsubishi clutches is heavy.
2. The holding power of the clutch may be improved over stock... actually, I know it is. BUT... when you're talking about holding power... the way that's achieved is through pressure plates, and to an extent, altered frictional materials. Thus, increased pedal effort.
This is a single disc clutch, and brand aside, this clutches particular characteristics are well suited to the Evos drivetrain. To briefly editorialize, MANY PEOPLE over clutch their Evos. This simply results in shuffling the load further down the driveline. If you add power, and eliminate the failsafe of wear items (clutch, tires) then something WILL break.
All of this said... if you're truly having an issue with pedal feel, and you like the characteristics of the particular clutch you're using... it may be more worth your time to fabricate something that provides you an additional hydraulic, or mechanical advantage. This is a bit out of my scope of practice... but the first things I'd consider would be a clutch slave cylinder that meets the appropriate specifications, but provides a greater hydraulic assist. The other (and POTENTIALLY easier) method would be to somehow increase the arm on the fork, and relocate the clutch cylinder to allow it to have more mechanical advantage. Of course this will require minor engineering, and fabrication, but it would likely be a more viable solution to your problem since you're essentially asking for an easier pedal throw, but increased clutch holding... which of course are juxtaposed.
I'd simply suggest the "stock clutch" but since that simply doesn't exist in the capacity of the disc that came INSIDE my bell housing from the dealer (despite what people will tell you)... the stage 2 is the clutch I went with as a stock replacement.
I track my car in all facets, including launching (though have not done more than one launch on this clutch). I'm at 306 WHP/WTQ.
I welcome any questions you have.
I have lots to say about clutches, and specifically "over clutching" Evos.
I'll spare much of that and simply state a couple of things.
1. The pedal effort on my particular car, is SLIGHTLY heavier than stock. But as you know, the stock pedal on most Mitsubishi clutches is heavy.
2. The holding power of the clutch may be improved over stock... actually, I know it is. BUT... when you're talking about holding power... the way that's achieved is through pressure plates, and to an extent, altered frictional materials. Thus, increased pedal effort.
This is a single disc clutch, and brand aside, this clutches particular characteristics are well suited to the Evos drivetrain. To briefly editorialize, MANY PEOPLE over clutch their Evos. This simply results in shuffling the load further down the driveline. If you add power, and eliminate the failsafe of wear items (clutch, tires) then something WILL break.
All of this said... if you're truly having an issue with pedal feel, and you like the characteristics of the particular clutch you're using... it may be more worth your time to fabricate something that provides you an additional hydraulic, or mechanical advantage. This is a bit out of my scope of practice... but the first things I'd consider would be a clutch slave cylinder that meets the appropriate specifications, but provides a greater hydraulic assist. The other (and POTENTIALLY easier) method would be to somehow increase the arm on the fork, and relocate the clutch cylinder to allow it to have more mechanical advantage. Of course this will require minor engineering, and fabrication, but it would likely be a more viable solution to your problem since you're essentially asking for an easier pedal throw, but increased clutch holding... which of course are juxtaposed.
I'd simply suggest the "stock clutch" but since that simply doesn't exist in the capacity of the disc that came INSIDE my bell housing from the dealer (despite what people will tell you)... the stage 2 is the clutch I went with as a stock replacement.
I track my car in all facets, including launching (though have not done more than one launch on this clutch). I'm at 306 WHP/WTQ.
I welcome any questions you have.
Wish I could provide feedback, instead I'll await the replies as I am looking at this clutch as well.
I know English markets these pretty hard, and I do not mistrust them, however I would like to have more user reports as well.
I don't drag race often anymore, but I do want the capability to launch sometimes.. Maybe up to 10 times a year.
I currently have a Exedy stage 1 and its transition is to fast to slip quickly for quick takeoffs.
I know English markets these pretty hard, and I do not mistrust them, however I would like to have more user reports as well.
I don't drag race often anymore, but I do want the capability to launch sometimes.. Maybe up to 10 times a year.
I currently have a Exedy stage 1 and its transition is to fast to slip quickly for quick takeoffs.
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my clutch is in the mail right now, at the price of $420 bucks I couldn't beat it, ACT thinks their clutches are made of gold and I don't need a twin disc so this was the choice for me at the comp stage 2
^Just an FYI I'm not sure where you bought your clutch from but if you went with the unsprung version and it was being dropped shipped, they are on back order so it may not actually be in the mail.
I've got a comp stage 2 sprung clutch officially in transit to me which should be here tomorrow. I too feel that far too many folks overc lutch their cars and all it is doing os hurting their wallet and potentially their drivetrain if they arent careful.
In my case my car is making moderate power; street tuned but probably around ~420wtq. I wanted a clutch that would hold my power but also not need to be replaced every year. My car is daily driven and autocrossed. I don't launch it or drag race so I dont need nor do I want a super aggressive clutch.
Unfortunately I don't have anything feedback on this piece yet but should be putting it in this weekend. I will gladly update this thread with my finding after I've installed it and broken it in.
I've got a comp stage 2 sprung clutch officially in transit to me which should be here tomorrow. I too feel that far too many folks overc lutch their cars and all it is doing os hurting their wallet and potentially their drivetrain if they arent careful.
In my case my car is making moderate power; street tuned but probably around ~420wtq. I wanted a clutch that would hold my power but also not need to be replaced every year. My car is daily driven and autocrossed. I don't launch it or drag race so I dont need nor do I want a super aggressive clutch.
Unfortunately I don't have anything feedback on this piece yet but should be putting it in this weekend. I will gladly update this thread with my finding after I've installed it and broken it in.
I agree with what everyone is saying about how ALOT of evo owners over clutch their cars. TRE's website talks briefly about this as well. With that said, I have the comp stage 2 clutch on my car right now. probably have over 2k miles daily driving it. It does feel slightly stiffer than stock, but not a whole lot to me honestly. My thoughts on it is, if the comp stage 2 is too much for your ankle, then imo you need to just stick with the oem clutch. I have a feeling the comp stage 2 will work just fine for you though.
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Thanks for all the input guy's

@ProPilot04, I have been considering a different slave cylinder. Going with a different slave cylinder seems like an easy solution to try as well.
If i go with that route, i will post my findings.
fwiw
the act mb7-hdss feels lighter than the exedy twin hd on my car & easier to modulate from a stop.
the exedy twin shifts so much nicer at all rpm's, simply gets better as the revs increase!

@ProPilot04, I have been considering a different slave cylinder. Going with a different slave cylinder seems like an easy solution to try as well.
If i go with that route, i will post my findings.
fwiw
the act mb7-hdss feels lighter than the exedy twin hd on my car & easier to modulate from a stop.
the exedy twin shifts so much nicer at all rpm's, simply gets better as the revs increase!
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; May 1, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
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Aby,
As far as I know, a slave cylinder that reduces pedal pressure does so at the cost of decreased clutch throw. Could be a problem for acheiving maximum disengagement.
Depending on what you hear from folks about the comp stg 2, I'll toss out that the ATS clutches have a rep for lower-than-stock pedal pressure, awesome drivability, and great holding power. They are spendy though. Even the single disk is $1500.
As far as I know, a slave cylinder that reduces pedal pressure does so at the cost of decreased clutch throw. Could be a problem for acheiving maximum disengagement.
Depending on what you hear from folks about the comp stg 2, I'll toss out that the ATS clutches have a rep for lower-than-stock pedal pressure, awesome drivability, and great holding power. They are spendy though. Even the single disk is $1500.
Last edited by mrfred; May 2, 2014 at 05:42 PM.
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I also want something that has less of an issue when being slipped, long term.
I live in a hilly area + sometimes my ankle doesnt behave / do what i want it to do, so i occasionally slip more than desired when taking off......
Im not sure how the carbon disc's will like that.
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; May 2, 2014 at 05:12 AM.
English reviewed the stage 2 and my summary of that is takes heat well. Obviously has a limit but stoplight slipping shouldn't be a problem he hot lapped it!
I have a stage 2 waiting to be installed. Will know more shortly ..
I have a stage 2 waiting to be installed. Will know more shortly ..
I just replaced my stage 2 because it was slipping so bad after 1 autocross season. Now I do launch my car but not to the point it should have killed the clutch in 1 year. My friend had the same issue and he never really launches his car. Clutch lasted him 1 season of autocross. I'm now on a act xtss and I really can't tell if the pedal is stiffer or not over the comp. If it is, its maybe a pound of 2. As for holding torque. From all the reports I read on here the comp is good to around 400ftlbs bases off what people have posted. If it was me I would stay away from the comp stage 2
I switched from the ACT XTSS to the Comp Stage 2. Under the ACT, I achieved 50k miles with 15 drag passes and about 10 autocross days with about 350lbs of torque. The Comp is being put through its paces on my new setup with ~500lbs of torque. So far I have about 1500 miles on it, one autocross day, and I like it much more than the XTSS for driveability. Much nicer on the left leg.
Downside - very easy to smell clutch when easing it into traffic. Never smelt the ACT until about pass 10 on the strip back to back.
Downside - very easy to smell clutch when easing it into traffic. Never smelt the ACT until about pass 10 on the strip back to back.
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Are ATS & Cabonetics the same company or different?
I also want something that has less of an issue when being slipped, long term.
I live in a hilly area + sometimes my ankle doesnt behave / do what i want it to do, so i occasionally slip more than desired when taking off......
Im not sure how the carbon disc's will like that.
I also want something that has less of an issue when being slipped, long term.
I live in a hilly area + sometimes my ankle doesnt behave / do what i want it to do, so i occasionally slip more than desired when taking off......
Im not sure how the carbon disc's will like that.
5k street miles and 5 track days on my stage 2 with exedy flywheel. couldn't be happier, i honestly cant really recall the stock pedal feel, but the comp is certainly not too heavy for me in traffic. my 60 year old father thinks its too heavy, but hes used to modern luxury clutches that are feather light
it is definitely easier in traffic tho, it does slip very smoothly. ive run ACT's in other cars and was never 100% happy with them.
it is definitely easier in traffic tho, it does slip very smoothly. ive run ACT's in other cars and was never 100% happy with them.








