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Car stalls when clutch in, threw p0401 code

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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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Car stalls when clutch in, threw p0401 code

We'll my Evo 8 has the problem that it stalls out when I put the clutch in.... I cannot figure it out.

2 weeks ago my walbro 255 started howling loudly and started to go bad, so I replaced it with a new one, the noise went away and it ran great for a few days, then I went on vacation with my car sitting at home for a week, came back, and now it is running like **** and idling really low like 300 rpm when I press the clutch in, then usually stalling.

So I got it scanned and it was showing p0401 code, which is bad egr flow, possibly the egr valve or being clogged, or a vacuum line on it.... So I looked it up and most people said to clean the valve. I took it off and cleaned the valve and it was pretty nasty, and I still have the bad stalling problem. When I took the egr valve off, the one vacuum hose was off and some said that this was their problem, I reconnected mine, and still runs like ****.... I even checked it to make sure it was still on and it was.

I also checked the clutch switch under the pedal, it was unplugged! So I plugged it in, and still nothing.....


My guess was originally a loose vacuum hose .... But now I think it's something mechanical with the clutch since when I push the clutch further in, the idle gets worse ... It has a new clutch exedy single disc heavy duty as of last April... It has been running great with it.

My other guess is an electrical short somewhere, I've read two very similar cases where that was the answer, one being on an Evo X:

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51073

If you skip to the last page, the problem was that a wire was grounding when the clutch was depressed, does anybody have an idea which wires I can check and where they are? Or ANY SUGGESTION? IM LOST!!?!!?!

also if it is electrical I read one thread that suggested a grounding kit, please the good people of EvoM, help me fix my baby!!!!!!
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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you have another switch on the clutch pedal assembly, which you probably didn't see because it's up there, might want to check that one. not sure how it feels based on your words, but you said electrical so that's probably something you didn't check.

that code seems to be for rear oxygen sensor. It's probably related to your EGR, I just read a stuck EGR can simulate a bad rear o2 sensor. Or it also says insufficient flow of EGR.

Last edited by intj123; Jun 9, 2014 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 02:39 AM
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I plugged in the one that has the little push button plunger that tells the ecu when the clutch is engaged, that one didn't change the problem, I'll look again for another switch there......
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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no thoughts or ideas from anybody? still stuck on this and car is stalling at every stop! please help!
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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You have either a HUGE boost leak, or crank-walked. I hope it's the first case.
Did you do a boost/leak test yet?
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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We'll all my hoses seemed good and tight but now I didn't tighten my hose clank enough and it blew off under boost. I quick fixed it till I get home....

Update: car is running ****ty still and it seemed to be running very hot (slight smoke coming from under my exhaust manifold shield), and it seems like it's burning oil bad as it was low from a new fill like 2 months ago
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ptm5070
We'll all my hoses seemed good and tight but now I didn't tighten my hose clank enough and it blew off under boost. I quick fixed it till I get home....

Update: car is running ****ty still and it seemed to be running very hot (slight smoke coming from under my exhaust manifold shield), and it seems like it's burning oil bad as it was low from a new fill like 2 months ago



You definitely didn't fix your EGR correctly. It's obviously not working, the EGR is supposed to keep combustion chambers cooler by mixing exhaust gas with incoming air.


Might want to do a compression test on the motor. If you got smoke coming from the exhaust manifold it might be a headgasket problem, sounds like your car has a multitude of problems.

You know it might not be a bad idea to just take it to a shop for diagnosis, pay them to diagnose it and you can do the labor yourself. You aren't even posting up videos or anything how do you expect us to magically know what's wrong, I think you're car needs a proper inspection, it sounds like it hasn't been maintained very well.

Last edited by intj123; Jun 10, 2014 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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crank walk comes to mind as worse case scenario..
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 02:41 AM
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Taking it to a dealer today to see if they can diagnose it, I really believe it gas the symptoms if crank walk, it just seems rare on an 8, but there is a slight rocking when the clutch is pressed in, and also the oil light comes on sometimes when the clutch is pressed in.... I may drop the oil pan today and look for metal shavings or any thrust bearings..... But god I hope it's not that.

Btw not to sound stupid.... How would recirculating hot exhaust gas into the intake manifold make the engine any cooler? Thought the sole purpose of egr was for emissions...
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 02:45 AM
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Not rocking, ticking *****

Autocorrect ...
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ptm5070
Taking it to a dealer today to see if they can diagnose it, I really believe it gas the symptoms if crank walk, it just seems rare on an 8, but there is a slight rocking when the clutch is pressed in, and also the oil light comes on sometimes when the clutch is pressed in.... I may drop the oil pan today and look for metal shavings or any thrust bearings..... But god I hope it's not that.

Btw not to sound stupid.... How would recirculating hot exhaust gas into the intake manifold make the engine any cooler? Thought the sole purpose of egr was for emissions...
The EGR is to lower combustion temperatures and reduce NOx. There are plenty other factors as well depending on the design of the system.

It does sound like crank walk though... Hope its not.

Drain the oil first and check for debris and flakes. Keep up posted.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:06 AM
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Will be taking the oil filter off today and cutting it open for debris, also dropping the oil pan if need be, then off to the dealer for a full diagnosis.... My only concern is when I called them, they didn't even know what crankwalk is.... But I guess I understand it's not as common anymore
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:06 AM
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I had a crappy idle and the p0401 egr flow code. Had a rip in a vacuum line. Yours sounds like it might be a worse leak than mine as my car wouldn't die. Do a quick endplay check pulling/pushing on the damper, it shouldn't move much. If it does, then drain your oil and check for shavings as others have suggested.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by X Double Dot
I had a crappy idle and the p0401 egr flow code. Had a rip in a vacuum line. Yours sounds like it might be a worse leak than mine as my car wouldn't die. Do a quick endplay check pulling/pushing on the damper, it shouldn't move much. If it does, then drain your oil and check for shavings as others have suggested.
Did your crappy idle come all the time? Or was it just when you pressed the clutch in? I want to think mine is a vacuum line but I don't know why it gets so bad when the clutch is pressed in and then there is a slight ticking sound?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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The idle was all the time for mine when there was a rip in the egr line. But if the idle is weak enough, and the car is barely able to stay running, and then you press the clutch in, I could see that being enough to kill it. Even on a car with a good thrust bearing there is some extra load when the thrust bearing is loaded, is your idle so weak that this extra load kills the car?

Have you gone and done an endplay check on the crank yet?

...what sort of ticking noise? Throwout bearing maybe? I don't have personal experience with that but it doesn't sound good.
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