Take it for what it's worth. I used a kinugawa/kamak 25g on my evo 9 once. Made 550/450 @ 34 psi. It lasted all about 5-6 months and then the compressor wheel decided to check out. Luckily i had a 1 year warranty and they sent me a brand new turbo. I sold it as soon as i received it.

 

What year was this? So that was the td06sl2 turbine? Billet or cast compressor wheel?

 

So I am seeing that I make MORE power if I stay 2-3+ PSI below the 25psi BOV limit. I have to decide whether I want to upgrade the BOV. For right now I am going to tune BELOW 25psi a bit more and see what I can make. You can see that in VD dyno attached.

356 wheel HP is a nice gain of 121 HP from VD baseline. You can calc drivetrain loss by straight value or by %. The two numbers are therefore: (291-235) = 56 + 356 = 412 crank HP and the other value would be 356/(235/292) = 440 crank HP.

So I am making between 412 and 440 HP at the flywheel and keeping the wheel torque around 300 to be safe. Boost response is CRAZY fast and the torque curve is fat making it a great DD.

I will post my final VD dyno results in that area when I am done.

 

My evo x stock bov leaked all the time even at 1 psi. I made a pressure tester out of steel pipe, a short hose, hose clamps, and a pressure gauge. The valve to seat area was dirty on mine I wiped it with seafoam that made it hold 27 psi. I then put it in a press and little by little eventually did the "full crush" until it would hold 32psi. I now take it off regularly and q-tipp the valve and seat to keep them clean. No need for an aftermarket bov just clean and crush yours.

 

This would be good info to include in the 25g thread...

 

This would be good info to include in the 25g thread...Nice FP turbo upgrade though.

 

So I did a leak test from the compressor outlet to the TB inlet. The BOV leaks at 26.5+ PSI and then again closes at 25psi. I imagine with heat and vibration it is leaking at the repeatedly mentioned (on the forums) 25psi. This leak test did not include the black outlet pipe that connects to the compressor turbo outlet. I forgot that I didn't have a gasket for that! That is probably the #1 source of pressure loss (just smooth metal on metal), and will be using gasket maker on it tomorrow. I also ordered a synapse BOV, because I flirt with 24-25psi too much and it will bother me to no end. Crushing it isn't my cup of tea, and I know it works for many people. The BOV is clean, it is just by design opening at 25psi.

The thing I am seeing now, is that one day I make 356whp with a WGDC of 61% and LOAD of 245, and another day I am also at 61% WGDC but only making 337whp with a load of say 235.
Similar ambient temperature.

The lower run is also richer by a noticeable amount. If I see this after I bolt the pipes back together I suppose I could post in the tuning section. I never seem to get any help on these forums....

 

I have been hunting around for a bit looking for "odd" turbo combos to get some quick spool power for a DD. This looks like a pretty good setup up. Mind sharing cost of the turbo?

 

I bought the chra with compressor cover and reused my mhi turbine housing. So the cost was $770 I believe. Then I ended up bolting a turbosmart actuator on it, but could have tried and used the stock one. The spool is wicked quick and so far the top end doesn't give out. Best of all there was no signs of surge at anytime. I am extremely happy with the results thus far. Time will tell if long term durability is an issue. If so I will post what happens here.

 

Posted my results in the dyno section. We all know these things are never done, but here is where I am now.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-370hp-mr.html

 

So here are the graphs showing A.) how quick this mother spools and B.) that it still holds the boost all the way despite the quick spool.

I now made 375hp at the wheels and I am not going further than that. This is through a 200cell CAT !







Final dyno graph of 375 is linked above in the dyno results thread for my build.

 

As promised, I will provide updates on how this thing is holding up.
It has about a dozen 1/4 mile passes on it, and about four time as many in Mexico street tuning.
I am running 25-26psi to redline with spikes around 27psi or so.
I believe I am coming up on 6kmi on it.

I was lazy and used a snap-on scope camera to inspect the compressor. I was looking for chips missing on the root edge of the blade. It will look like foreign object damage if it is actually cycle fatigue damage. The compressor looked good. I was also checking the compressor housing walls for signs of contact from shaft play. No marks could be seen on the walls of the compressor. So far so good





GTX style 20g compressor inspection.


~Jaraxle

 

Thanks for the update. Looks like the turbo is meeting all your expectations which is always a great feeling

 

Glad to see the turbo is holding up well. I think you were prudent in having it VSR balanced. I'm going to have 2 MHI turbos rebuilt and even though I know MHI turbos to be component balanced, VSR balancing will give me piece of mind in the end.

 

Nice documenting this turbo option, great spool and ability to hold 26 psi to redline seems like a good combo. I'm pushing my standard 20g compressor upgrade setup a bit farther with some E85 tuning now and dialing in 26 psi until 6000 which then tapers to 25 psi at 6500 and 24 psi at 7000. Just street tuning this before hitting the dyno I've already reached 440-450 whp on Virtual Dyno in Dynojet mode so it looks promising.