Mivec Feed Line Banjo Bolt Leak
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Mivec Feed Line Banjo Bolt Leak
Alright, so I just did a rebuild on my 2.3L Engine and everything is working flawlessly with the engine except for this FREAKIN leak in one of my banjo bolts. It is the MiVec feed line on the back of the block, specifically the banjo bolt on the driver's side on the block (not the one that feeds into the head). I have snapped off a couple of banjo bolts trying to get it all tight and stuff but the damn thing keeps leaking I used new crush washers when I put the first banjo bolt on there. The only thing I can think is to just buy new crush washers. But while I am trying some things I just wanted to ask if anybody has had a problem with this bolt before and what they did to fix it? It is the banjo bolt with the check valve built in... Pain in the ***! If I SERIOUSLY can't seal it up with enough torque to snap the banjo bolt, then what the **** do I do? Anyways, if anybody has any brilliant ideas, I would like to hear them. Thanks.
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Tried torqueing them properly. That is kinda what got me in trouble in the first place. The factory torque spec is 17 ft-lb I think. I got to about 9 ft-lb and snapped it right off. I could try again, it is possible that the used banjo bolt was vibration fatigued to the point that it was weakened significantly, but I am still reluctant to do that... But yeah, I will just get new crush washers.
Last edited by MechNARP; Sep 29, 2014 at 08:44 AM.
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Tried torqueing them properly. That is kinda what got me in trouble in the first place. The factory torque spec is 17 ft-lb I think. I got to about 9 ft-lb and snapped it right off. I could try again, it is possible that the used banjo bolt was vibration fatigued to the point that it was weakened significantly, but I am still reluctant to do that... But yeah, I will just get new crush washers.
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Always good to check. I am looking at the "Rocker Arms and Camshaft" section of the service manual and it recommends 22 ft-lbs. That seems a bit absurd... But yeah. I have now ordered several of these damnable things so that I don't have a non-running car for two weeks like last time. I will report back on what does/doesn't work.
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if you really want it to seal an old diesel mechanice told me to put a little red thread locker on both sides of your washers bolt is up nice and snug not to tight cause i myself broke one of these anf it was 40 bucks to replace . once snug give it a good tap with a hammer to seat the crush washer and your good to go . HAS WORKED EVRYTIME SINCE THEN NOW I LIVE BY IT ON ALL MY WASHERS
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if you really want it to seal an old diesel mechanice told me to put a little red thread locker on both sides of your washers bolt is up nice and snug not to tight cause i myself broke one of these anf it was 40 bucks to replace . once snug give it a good tap with a hammer to seat the crush washer and your good to go . HAS WORKED EVRYTIME SINCE THEN NOW I LIVE BY IT ON ALL MY WASHERS
Holy bawlz... That is a really damn good idea... You, sir, are promoted. I look forward to your arrival!
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Recheck the tq spec as others have mentioned as it very well may be in in/lbs not ft/lbs. If you havent already get two new crush washers and carefully bolt it down. Too much tq isnt helping the case. Also, make sure you didnt cross thread it or else the banjo will obviously not seat flat and it will never properly seal.
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That is the bolt I am talking about. I don't believe it either, but the spec says 22 ft-lb... Way too much. I don't believe I have cross threaded it, but the stainless oil line does push on it so I am wondering if that little bit of lateral force is just lifting one side of the bolt off of the crush washers and causing it to leak a bit? I like the idea of the red thread lock and I am going to look into the bonded hydraulic sealing washers. Good suggestions all, thanks guys.
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I believe it is M12 fine? Don't remember off the top of my head but I am pretty sure. I have not had good experiences with putting a lot of torque on fine thread bolts, much less these weak-*** banjo bolts. This particular one has a check valve built into it so I can imagine that it is probably a dealer only thing. But dammit, someone should start making high strength banjo bolts from better steel!
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Alright there ya little fetuses! So I finally got around to updating this thread, but in case anybody has this problem in the future, I ended up sealing my leak up using some pressure sealing washers. I got mine from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93786a200/=u4fhxf). Put them on initially and it didn't quite seal which PISSED me off, but I tightened it up a little bit today and just went for a drive and when I got back everything was dry! EFFIN HAIL SATAN!!! Thanks for the tips from everyone on the forum, you guys are my best hoes.