Thanks, that's what I did, just wanted to double check.

I did find some cheapo $5 40 pc tool sets at walmart which had uber small 1/4" drive 12mm sockets. I was able to tighten the bolts a little with my torque wrench, but not before I destroyed the socket (damn cheap sockets!) I thought I had it down pretty tight, but upon acceleration it's still whistling and stumbling like a ****. Is there a recommended torque for that particular IC pipe?

 

The torque spec for that bolt is 15 ft lbs. if I recall correctly. Try rotating the outlet of this IC pipe towards the front of the car, this will give you a little more room to get on the bolt head. There is a little slop in the bolt holes in the IC pipe where it bolts to the turbo outlet. This slop allows you to rotate the end of the pipe towards the front of the car. The gasket will seal properly even though the flanges don't line up 100% properly. This is what I did to mine and this allowed me to get them torqued down to 15 ftlbs. Give that a shot and see how it works.

Brian

 

what are you guys using for Upper IC pipe? i have the R-SPL and lower Greddy pipes coming in, thanx

 

Man... as it turns out, I destroyed 1/2 of the thread on the hard to reach bolt (not the bolt thread, but the thread on the turbo). I tightened the thing at an angle due to the slack, as you mentioned... this is out of my hands now. I have no clue what to do. I'm gonna drive the car to a shop tomorrow and see what they can do... thanks for the help, but I think I'm at a dead end now.

 

Zstryder: Sorry man, that sucks. You are left with a few choices now. You can either drill and tap a larger SAE thread into the turbo outlet flange, or drill it and insert a helicoil that matches the stock metric thread. Either one will probably need to be taken to a machine shop to have done.

If you are really lucky, you maybe able to get a slightly longer bolt, this will allow it to get into the hole far enough to get to the threads that are still good.

I think Hooptie157 had the same problem when he installed his, try PM'ing him and ask how he got his fixed.

Brian

 

I took it to an auto shop today and they said they couldn't retap the thread, so they used a stud...? Anyway, they test drove and said there's a boost leak somewhere cause you can hear it. So I went home, took off my bumper, retightened all the couplings, checked all my IC hoses, and all the vacuum hoses too. Everything seems tight. I test drove, and still, I'm only getting 15 psi max and you can still hear the leak. I think that IC pipe is still suspect, and the shop wasn't able to get a clean seal. Perhaps I should ask them to use silicone sealant or something?

 

Sounds like you still have a boost leak. OR another idea.

Is your original OEM boost controll lines still being used? (except you are getting pressure source from BOV). The OEM boost control lines have a restrictor in them that will cause the boost to run higher. If you replace any of the original lines, then the boost will be lower. I already had to troubleshoot another Evo owners low boost problem after the intercooler install. He replaced the OEM boost control lines when he hooked up to the BOV line and that caused his boost to be about 13 or 14 psi.

Brian

 

WOW this sounds like the same thing that happened to me!!! I had to rethread the turbo bolt hole because I stripped the crap out of it. Just get a good taper, tap it and you should be good to go (the metal isn't that strong so taping shouldn't be a problem).

 

Actually, I'm using the Vishnu XFlash which actually has the two lines going to the stock boost solenoid connected together. I forgot to put the restrictor back in, but regardless you can still hear the leak (it sounds like an electronic kazoo, and you can hear it starting around 5psi, all the way till 15psi max). I guess I'll throw the restrictor back in tonight - the restrictor is placed in the line coming from the BOV, correct??

 

Yeah, I had the guys retap it and all with a stud - from looking at it, it looks fine, but the system is still leaking somewhere. They said they're putting it on the dyno today to figure out where the leak is cause the guy couldn't find a leak using a smoke test. I really, really, really, hope it's not the IC itself that's leaking... I coulda swore I heard a hissing sound at idle coming from the front of the car when I kneeled down by the IC...

 

Hmm... they just called me back and said after retesting the whole system, they could *not* find a leak. They said that the sound I'm hearing is probably the air resonating inside the IC pipes (similar to how getting an intake pipe will really amplify that *sucking* noise).

They also mentioned to me that I forgot to install the restrictor, so they said to try that when I got home from work and see how the car pulls. If the car doesn't pull like it should, then they suggest I send my ECU back to Visnhu for a reflash... hmm, at least it's not a leak in the IC, like I thought it might have.. that's good to know. On the bad side, they said they jerry rigged the hose with a makeshift restrictor to see how the car would pull on the dyno, and they were only able to get 238whp??

This sucks..

PS. they also said to put the restrictor in the wastegate line, and not the BOV pressure line... which one should it go in?

 

bump... got a question.

If my boost gauge is reading standard boost (21-22psi, tapering down to 19psi) then is it still possible to have a boost leak? Maybe this whirring sound I'm hearing isn't a leak, after all?

 

You should get some allen head bolts instead of the cheap hard to use Greddy bolts. I had the same problem with mine and it was because I couldn't tighten the pipe that connects to the turbo. Took it to the local rally car shop and they used the allen headed bolts. Much easier!

 

I just used a 1/4" drive swivel 12mm socket when installed my Helix IC pipe turbo outlet elbow. Made life a lot easier.

 

Same problems! I went with the Buschur Deluxe FMIC. I am still getting a whistle/whine under boost. What about a larger gasket? Or using some kind of gasket sealent?? will that fix the noise.