Sup,

I just installed a greddy front mount yesterday and have a really loud whirring noise (only under boost) coming from somewhere under the hood. I sounds like a air leak but I'm not sure. I tightened all of the hoses pretty good so I'm not sure what going on. It could be the new outlet pipe from the turbo cuz the bolts were a ***** to get in but I thought they where in all the way. The only other thing I can think of is since the new turbo outlet pipe didn't have a nipple for the hose which was going to my EBC, I had to T it off at the throttle body (hose which goes to the top of the BOV) and put the hose that was once below the turbo on that T. Could the noise be coming from the air rushing though the T and should I have done that another way. I'm gonna put my car up on a lift on Wednesday to check everything again but I just want some feedback first, thanks.

~Hooptie~

 

its just your imagination

 

Sup Josh,

Sure sure just my, yours and a BMW technician's imagination (oh yeah and my girls). Strange thing is I called Initial D and they said it was normal but its not supposed to be as loud as mine is. Well we'll see on wednesday when your friend checks it out on a lift. Hopefully he'll find something cuz the sound is annoying as hell!!

Damn my car sounds like a remote controlled car.

 

I just did mine recently and had the exact same problem, it is the pipe flange connected to the turbo. Sounds like a dentist drill, very annoying and it really hurts the response/power. I have a nice Snapon/Mercedes 12mm swivel socket that is great for getting into tight spots, and even with that I just could not get on that bolt head. I had to take the down pipe off just get the bolt out, it felt tight hitting it from an angle but once I was able to get at it with the down pipe out I found it was very loose.
What I did was take the pipe back out, with it in your hand and the bolt in the flange hole you can plainly see that there is no room for even a thin wall socket to get on there. Using a hammer I put a very minor dent in the pipe, enough so that I could easily get a socket on the bolt with it in my hand. Reinstalling the pipe with the dent modification and the down pipe out of the way was very easy.
With the pipe flang properly tightened on both sides the noise is gone and the power and response improved dramatically. Other than this minor issue and having to slightly trim the two front bumper mounting tabs, this kit fits extremely well and the butt dyno says .

 

Thanks silver surfer.

Can you PM me with you number so I can call you and talk about this, thanks.

 

Hooptie,

This is the socket that I used and even with this little jewel I could not get squarely on the bolt. I even tried grinding the outside of the socket down but there was just so little clerance between the bolt and the pipe. Just put a small dent in the pipe right where the inside flange bolt sits and then test fit using the bolt and what ever socket you are using. With this socket I only needed a very small dent to get it to fit. If your using a standard socket you will probably need a more significant dent to clear it.

I mentioned this to my local shop, they have sold several of these kits, they said that they have gotten similiar feed back from others as well. I did not have time to take pics but maybe you can when you take it off.

I just wonder how many off these kits are out there leaking air right out of the turbo, with ear piercing noise and signifcant power loss. I cannot believe that some one from Greddy actually told you that was normal . Perhaps when if you get pics we can sticky this as a TSB for the Greddy intercooler install, here or in the how to section? Mine came with no instructions and it took me a couple of minutes to figure out how the brackets went, I almost tried bending the tabs before I figured it out .

 

Silver Surfer,

Did you use the stock gasket and bolts or the ones supplied by greddy?

I used the gasket provided by greddy (which also seems to be a problem) and the stock bolts. Tomorrow, when I tighten it up, I'm going back to the stock gasket.

 

Stock bolts but greddy gasket. Hmmm do the Greddy bolts have a smaller head? The stock bolts have a 12mm head, looking at the two left over bolts from the kit they have a 13mm head which would make the fit even worse. Unless I used the two bolts ment for this pipe on the mounting brackets? That could of happened, especially without install instructions.
Either way, when the IC is installed correctly with no leaks, it makes no additional noises and the added power/response are very noticable from the but dyno. Can't wait to see what it's making now on a real dyno.

 

I have the same problem with mine. I guess I have to pull it back off and put a dent in the pipe. My craftsman 12 mm socket was 17.20 mm in diamter on the outside of it. I went to the flea market today and bought a cheap 12mm socket that is only 15.70 mm in outside diameter. Maybe the smaller socket will work, if not, I will have to take it out.

Also, I pulled the starter off to get a straight ahead shot and the bolt. That worked good but the craftsman socket was just too big. You can take the starter off and not have to remove the downpipe.

Hooptie: Did you get your fixed?

Brian

 

The new socket worked like a dream. I could get to it without taking the starter out. But I wanted to make sure and be able to torque it down with a torque wrench. The thin walled socket worked perfectly, no interference with the pipe at all. Leak is gone.

Brian

 

I got mine fixed awhile ago, sorry I didn't post an update. I had to back out the bolt and re-thread the hole because I cross threaded it. But now everythings all good!!!

BTW Turbodawg I E-mailed you back!!

 

Hm, I just installed mine this weekend and I have the same problem.

TURBODAWG, do you know where I could get a socket like that, or maybe I could "borrow" it from you? Mine is so loose that you can't even drive past 3000 rpms. This is my daily driver too, so this could be a problem....

 

Go to advance auto parts, kmart, walmart, Big Lots, or some place that sells cheap tool sets. Buy the cheapest tool set that you can buy that has 1/4" drive sockets. The cheaper sockets have very thin walls and will have a smaller O.D. (outside diameter). I believe the cheaper the tool set, the thinner the sockets. I have seen little tool sets like this for $5 that include a 1/4" ratchet and SAE and Metric sockets up to about 12mm. You need the 12 mm socket from one of these sets. I you have a caliper, you need to look for an O.D. on the socket of about 15.70 mm or less. Like I said above the craftsman socket was 17.20. Once you have the socket you need, remove the starter and use a few 1/4" extensions to get to that rear bolt. You should be able to torque it to 15 ftlbs, like the manual says.

You could borrow my socket, but it would be easier just to buy a cheap tool kit and it would be much faster. If the socket is bigger than 15.7 mm, then take it back and try a different tool kit from another store. I don't think you will have a problem though, if you just buy a "no name" tool kit.

Good luck!!

Brian

 

Thanks for the advice! I'll hit up those stores tomorrow and see what I can do...

It's weird cause at first I hadn't torqued down either of the two bolts - and the car ran fine up to 3000 rpms (under no boost).

Then, I torqued down one of the two bolts to 33 lb-ft, and the other one I couldn't get to (the one we're talking about) and I tried driving again. This time, my check engine light went on and the car started stumbling and stalling and wouldn't accelerate past 2000rpms. I'm starting to wonder if maybe I missed something else as well?

Actually, that reminds me - for the turbo hose they supplied - what does that connect? Previously there was a 3 way t-hose between the actuator, the stock IC dump pipe, and the stock boost solenoid. What I ended up doing was just taking that entire hose assembly out, and using the supplied one to connect the stock boost solenoid and the actuator, since the new IC dump pipe doesn't have one. Am I then supposed to use the supplied T connector to connect the BOV line, the stock boost solenoid, and actuator?

 

To answer your question about hooking up the wastegate lines. The simplest way to tell you is this. Do you know the stock intercooler pipe that was bolted to the turbo? It had a small nipple on it that hooked to the actuator and the solenoid and was T-ed and so forth. You no longer have a pressure source on that intercooler pipe with the new greddy pipe, therefore, you T into the BOV pressure/vac line and hook it into the vac line that was previously connected to that little nipple. In this scenario you are using the intake manifold pressure instead of the intercooler pipe pressure. I hope that makes since.

Brian