Letting You In On The Secret.... Face-Platted Transmission
its my understanding that rev matching for down shifts does need to happen but it does not have to match perfectly. it is more of the shift. once you commit to shift ''down or up'' you must not dilly around. quick shifts are key
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I was discussing this with some friends over the weekend. One downside is that you can't downshift unless you are perfect at rev matching every time. The main concern was that you have to actually hold the shifter because it will cause it to pop out of gear if you decel. That would be a pain in the butt. Also it is similar to a dogbox in that you have to shift fast every time because lazy shifting will ruin the dogs. Any real world experience concerning these issues from users on here?
Can you explain double clutching?
i don't think there's anything wrong with throwing out prices.
Prices I got couple months back
Btw, everything already availability from what we were told at pri
Prices I got couple months back
Originally Posted by liberty trans
$80 per gear 1-4
$80 per hub (2 req’d),
$250 for both sliders,
$15 to machine your ½ fork OR $350 (approx) for a billet ½ fork.
You will also need a billet ¾ fork at Approx $350, you cannot use a stock ¾ fork.
The fork prices are approximated because we are still making them and we haven’t yet been able to evaluate the costs to manufacture.
$80 per hub (2 req’d),
$250 for both sliders,
$15 to machine your ½ fork OR $350 (approx) for a billet ½ fork.
You will also need a billet ¾ fork at Approx $350, you cannot use a stock ¾ fork.
The fork prices are approximated because we are still making them and we haven’t yet been able to evaluate the costs to manufacture.
$1100 isnt bad if they can put it together after its all machined. Even if thats not included, I would say anything cheaper than the cheapest built trannies is a good deal. TRE is $1700ish for a built stage 3 transmission, if this can be done for less than that I would say its a viable option.
Assembly without Synchros is easier than a std build. These are simple transmissions too. I would do this for a car that is drag focused street car for sure. Mine is a true daily driver so I will keep it a Synchro transmission.
RRT is building trannies with dog 1-2 gears and he says this is the ultimate street setup. My car is a drag focused street car but I don't want it to be more annoying than it already is with the QM clutch and solid mounts... Any opinions on this trans setup??
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From: With my admirers in the BACK ROOM!
Sure.
So, you start out in first gear as you pull away from a stop light. Now its time to shift into second gear so you:
1. Push in the clutch and put the trans in neutral
2. Release the clutch while it is still in neutral
3. Push the clutch back in and now slide the shifter into second gear
4. Release the clutch and accelerate.
When you do this it allows all the stuff spinning around inside the trans to get into synch and allows a smoother engagement. Again, this is just for putzing the car around. There is a certain "feel" to it, but after practice I was able to figure out the sweet rpm point for each gear change where the shift level would just kind of "fall" into the next gear without a noise at all. Literally shifted as smoothly as a synchonized trans once I figured it out.
Obviously, your shifts will be a bit slower than normal during regular driving. But, by doing this you avoid any clunking/crunching noise that comes from the face-teeth violently bumping into each other during engagement. Basically, this slowing-down the shift allows everything internally to get aligned before the shift, which is exactly what a synchronizer does in the first place.
Hope this helps.
So, you start out in first gear as you pull away from a stop light. Now its time to shift into second gear so you:
1. Push in the clutch and put the trans in neutral
2. Release the clutch while it is still in neutral
3. Push the clutch back in and now slide the shifter into second gear
4. Release the clutch and accelerate.
When you do this it allows all the stuff spinning around inside the trans to get into synch and allows a smoother engagement. Again, this is just for putzing the car around. There is a certain "feel" to it, but after practice I was able to figure out the sweet rpm point for each gear change where the shift level would just kind of "fall" into the next gear without a noise at all. Literally shifted as smoothly as a synchonized trans once I figured it out.
Obviously, your shifts will be a bit slower than normal during regular driving. But, by doing this you avoid any clunking/crunching noise that comes from the face-teeth violently bumping into each other during engagement. Basically, this slowing-down the shift allows everything internally to get aligned before the shift, which is exactly what a synchronizer does in the first place.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by way2qik; Jan 30, 2015 at 06:51 AM.
I've been waiting 15 years for this to have merit!!!
Cool to see people doing this on the EVO trans as the gears in there are pretty stout.
I've had a few friends that drove dog boxes on the street though and yeah...it's bad. Drop a gear with them on the freeway with your window down and you start check the rear view to see if parts come flying out the back of their car.
Cool to see people doing this on the EVO trans as the gears in there are pretty stout.
I've had a few friends that drove dog boxes on the street though and yeah...it's bad. Drop a gear with them on the freeway with your window down and you start check the rear view to see if parts come flying out the back of their car.
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