where are we actually polishing bottom facing the disk or top near the collar.2nd what process just buffing or what.I know this has be discussed but no solid answers that I've seen.Ive gone so far as to perhaps send it to Calico Coatings and have them super micro finishing depending on cost.I like things done right the first time as most of us do if it takes a little longer or cost more so be it.I got the monoloc collar and new oem TOB still need to get fluid. Thanks all

 

bump!

 

bump!anyone

 

bump!anyone

 

Polish, deburr all the metal on metal friction points. Arms, slots on floaters, etc. Just make sure its smooth and does not catch. I even polished the hub but im OCD. lol good luck.

 

Polish where the arms and floater plates touch. Tried to highlight them in red with a random pic on the internet. Right in between the red lines.

 

how does one accomplish this?

 

fine sand paper, to emery cloth, to scotch brite. I didn't do this on my twin. Could explain the occasional weird behavior. Oh well, I'm not pulling my trans again just for this...lol

 

How about using a silicone lubricant that leaves no deposit. this is my favorite which I use on doors hinges, bushings, etc. You can buy this at Autozone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRC-Heavy-Du...QAAOSwOfxXBWJc

 

That will burn off when it gets sprinkled with clutch dust that is a good bit hotter than 400*.

 

This still required? I ordered an Exedy Twin HD from STM and did not modify it at all. Car drives fine.

 

It's not required to do. It would help fix any binding/engagement issues that can happen after many miles of beating on it.

 

Ahh ok. Mine hasn't been beaten on yet so probably why I haven't experienced any issues lol

 

Is this something that has been confirmed or just guesstimates? I mean that it gets well beyond 400F.

 

Well, the surface of a used flywheel is always a nice blue/gold color. It gets hot, and the clutch dust that comes out when the flywheel gets that hot is definitely just as hot..