Autometer Manual Boost Gauge

Hooked up via "T" fitting in FPR line, routed through passenger firewall and into the back of the boost gauge

No Wideband

No logging software or Tactrix Cable (can get it if needed, I will soon anyways)

Few days ago boost gauge just stopped reading. No vacuum, no boost. I was headed uphill passing someone on the freeway and glanced down and didn't think much of it because the reading was at 0. Looked at it for some reason at the next stoplight or something and it was still reading 0. Chances that it reads 0 at idle are basically none.

Car feels fine to drive, still builds boost, doesn't feel "off" at all. Car has been in the same mechanical shape for almost 4 years now, I would be able to tell if something were majorly different.

I pulled the gauge a few nights ago because my initial thought was that it had come unconnected from the back of the gauge because the T fitting in the engine bay was still solid and intact, that wasn't the case. Meter will read fine if I blow on it, managed to get it up to 3lbs while sitting in the car examining it so I know it's not stuck.

Next course of action is a boost leak test, though I don't expect that to solve this issue. I do expect it to tell me that the throttle body shaft seals are leaking however, as is common on most evos that haven't had them replaced recently.

Any ideas on this? Even if the FPR was bad, the boost gauge should still be reading something as it's in-line with the FPR and not located after it.

Thoughts? Opinions? Ideas? Luckily it's summer and I'm riding the bike full-time pretty much as I'm skeptical to be driving while this is an issue but it's something I'd like to get taken care of ASAP however I've no idea where to start even

 

Anyone with thoughts on this? Hoping to have time to piece together a boost leak test kit this week sometime and see what that returns even though I don't think it will help solve this issue at all

 

If the gauge still works by blowing into the back of it(directly; eliminating gauge failure). I suspect that the plastic line has fractured somewhere; probably where it passes the firewall.

 

If your car feels fine, idles good and the gauge works, then I would check the plastic line that leads through the firewall for kinks or cracks. If it doesn't have any that you can see, put your hand near where the line connects to the gauge while in boost you might feel the air coming out, because the line might of broken right where it connects to the nut connecting the line to the gauge. That's how I would check if you feel that your car idles and drives fine.

 

I'm an idiot.



See anything wrong? Yea, I didn't either.



Until I looked at it from a different angle while re-routing the boost gauge hard plastic line with actual vacuum line.

Five minute fix turned into a one hour fix for this one tiny rubber line!