confirming IACV is bad?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
confirming IACV is bad?
so, from what i can tell, to test my IACV i just unbolt it and turn the key to "on"? then the sensor should move on it's own to find it's needed position, make clicking noises, etc?
mine doesn't move and the lil' sucker gets hot, so i'm assuming mine is toast.
i decided to test mine when my car started acting weird. at startup it was running 19-22:1 for a few seconds then settle to stoich but still runs kinda crappy at low RPM.
just wanted to check with you guys before i blow $300 on a new one LOL (or check the wrecking yard....it's hot outside).
mine doesn't move and the lil' sucker gets hot, so i'm assuming mine is toast.
i decided to test mine when my car started acting weird. at startup it was running 19-22:1 for a few seconds then settle to stoich but still runs kinda crappy at low RPM.
just wanted to check with you guys before i blow $300 on a new one LOL (or check the wrecking yard....it's hot outside).
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
okay, i'm dumb. mine was fine, i tested wrong. i forgot to pull the fuse before turning the key on, but it still did get pretty warm, so i swapped it for another.
car still idles and runs like crap until i hit 2k RPM. i'll keep trying new things until i find the issue.
car still idles and runs like crap until i hit 2k RPM. i'll keep trying new things until i find the issue.
kaj what fuse do you have to pull?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
20A ECU fuse. driver-side fender, under the hood. pull it for a sec, plug back in, turn key to "on". sensor will move and click. i could hear it but had to record it with my phone to be sure LOL
repeat the process each time you run the test.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
anyway, the problem isn't my IACV.
i started the car today and couldn't get the car to idle. i had to keep my foot on the pedal. pulled said fuse again. restarted. fine since.
this leads me to believe it's a tuning issue or yet another sensor. bleh. still sorting through the possibilities.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA
Not really. The only theory we could come up with is, since I'm running a mini battery, The car may draw enough juice from it during start up that it requires a few seconds for the alternator to get the battery caught up.
However, I never have this problem on a cold start whether the car is on the tender or not. It only does it once the car is warmed up. So.. our theory doesn't quite hold water unless there is some weird difference I don't know about, between cold and warm start ups. LOL
I've just learned to deal with it.
FWIW: for me, it's worse on pump gas. Just last night the car went lean and stalled. Eh well. Becuz racecar, I guess.
However, I never have this problem on a cold start whether the car is on the tender or not. It only does it once the car is warmed up. So.. our theory doesn't quite hold water unless there is some weird difference I don't know about, between cold and warm start ups. LOL
I've just learned to deal with it.
FWIW: for me, it's worse on pump gas. Just last night the car went lean and stalled. Eh well. Becuz racecar, I guess.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
Likes: 824
From: Fresno, CA







