So you saw it hitting 11.5#, and then creeping to 17.5#? Right?

Tell me at what RPM you hit 0.8 BAR.

 

The flapper is full open at 11.5#, then she creeps up to 18#. That's 6+ PSI of creep(plenty!).

The relevant boost pressure reading for this thread is the 11.5# which, given no boost leaks, or WGA linkage binds etc. should be your spring pressure. It is on the low side for factory spring pressure setting. Usually from the factory it is in the 12-14 PSI range.

12# spring pressure would be OK for running 16# of boost. But, it is way little for your desired 23#.

 

I will get my car out and drive tomorrow see what RPM it hits 0.8 BAR.

And what do you mean by the spring pressure? Is it ok to run this setup with Grimmspeed EBC?

I planned to run around 23psi on E85 with FIC1150 and Walbro 255.

Thank you for your kindly help.

Very appreciated.

 

and what do you mean by this post? There's a few space to screw in but it won't be able to put it with the flapper. By this preload, i need pliers to grab and pull it to put it with the flapper.

 

I mean that you have to adjust/tighten the WGA more. 11# of spring pressure is just plain wimpy. If you want to run 23# peak, then you will need to tighten the WGA up to at least 17-18# of spring pressure minimally, independently of whatever form of boost control you decide to use to control peak boost.

Just bottom out the threaded end of the actuator rod in the turnbuckle tip by first loosening the back up nut and then rotating the turnbuckle clockwise.

In fact, you can get it to adjust even tighter by removing the backup nut altogether and tossing it in the trash can. Then when that isn't enough you can do the mod of cutting the 1st 2 threads off the end of the actuator rod. Then you will be rockin.

As for not being able to pull the tip of the actuator rod back up onto its home on the flapper valve's pivot arm....try this trick: Slightly loosen the two bolts fastening the actuator bracket onto the compressor housing. This will let you pull the actuator rod toward the flapper valve so that you can easily mount the tip of the actuator onto the flapper valve pivot arm. Once you get that mounted then retighten the two bolts on the compressor housing.

 

It hits 0.8BAR at around 3500RPM.

 

12# @ 3500 is way too sloooow spooling. The flapper valve is lifting up off its seat way too early allowing exhaust energy to escape out the turbine bypass port thus slowing turbine shaft speed. Adjust/modify the actuator the way I outlined above and retest.

With your 16G/10..5 turbo you should be seeing about 16-18# by 3200-3400 RPM, easily. You should be hitting your 23# peak by about 3800-4000...at the latest.

 

i'll try to adjust the wga while waiting for ebc.

thanks!

 

Now I installed Grimmspeed EBCS and get it tuned. Turbo holds boost well at 1.6Bar til redline but the problem is there's flutter noise from wastegate during the boost build up. I heard it quite clearly and I'm sure that it's not surging noise since I use MAP External Dump.

Should I upgrade the WGA to 1.5Bar or just 1.2Bar? My target boost is around 1.6-1.7 Bar. I'm running E85.

Please let me know your opinion.

Thanks!

 

PS. I tried adjusting my current WGA by remove the backup nut and cut some thread off. By connecting the WGA to turbo directly, it still boost at 0.8Bar

 

That is normal operation for an electronic boost control solenoid. No meed the change anything.

 

So this is normal for EBCS? it makes shh shhh shhh shhh during boost build up then shasssssssssssss on the full boost at 1.6Bar

But I found it's quite slow to get full boost, it was around 4k rpm.

If I change WGA spring to 1.2Bar or 1.5Bar, will I get better turbo respond?

 

any idea?

 

Yes, the sound is normal


That spoolup sounds mostly within range for the FP green. Do you have an MHI turbine housing, or the new FP stainless housing?

 

MHI housing