Hi Erik,

Yes, energy suspension sells a kit for the oem mustache bar bushings, but I believe it also forces you to get the diff side mount bushings too. The stock mustache bar bushings would have to be pressed out of the heavy iron bar and new ones pressed in.

-pal215

 

It's ok to drive without the full bar under one condition. AMS sells a small piece that replaces the bar so that you still have something there to keep the rear diff from rocking forwards and backwards on and off throttle. The side supports just help resist diff rotation.

So your options are:

1. Keep the stock bar and replace bushings when they go bad

2. Replace the mustache bar completely, which I'm pretty sure Buschur racing is the only company that makes a full mustache bar replacement.

3. Get a mustache bar delete kit that eliminates the bar, but gives you something smaller that successfully does the same thing with more added noise. Most people also report added vibration.

In this thread you can see exactly what the AMS kit does differently:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...irst-time.html

Here are two pictures for a sneak peak.










Even though options two and three both offer significant weight savings, I choose option two because I don't like the idea of not having a bar that Mitsubishi designed to be there go missing when I'm doing more than just drag racing.

-pal215

 

I can get the CNC'd side bushings with ploy bushings while also replacing the mustache bar bushings, correct? If so, that's what I'll probably do.

 

That's correct. That would also secure the diff very well if you don't care for the weight savings.

Buschur only mentions that you should not run their mustache bar with the stock side mounts, but since you are getting the CNC side mounts and keeping the stock mustache bar while changing the bushings, you're golden.

-pal125

 

Pal215 thank you for useful info.

 

Not a problem

-pal215

 

+++

 

i wouldn't mix solid bushings with poly bushings. the AMS mustache elim kit use all solid bushing for the sides and solid mount for the back. if you mix poly bushings for the side and sold mount in the back, it will break. the ams kit will make your car sounds like you got a blown diff.

 

Great thread. Thanks for the write up.

 

The AMS eliminator is tied for first place with a solid hub twin disc on worst mod you can do for a daily driver. Put the two together and the drivetrain makes more noise then a 3" muffler less exhaust...

If you aren't after light weight parts, I'd just go for poly bushings in the stock side and rear mounts.

 

Thank You for this valuable, and detailed info.! It helps!

 

No Problem!

So far this setup runs great.

-pal215

 

Curious to why you think that. When looking at the diff from the back, the side mounts with poly bushings take care of the clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of the rear diff. The mustache bar takes care of the front to back swinging of the rear diff. The poly bushings in the side mounts are not compliant enough for these two directional axis to overlap and cause the rear mustache bar to break.

If it does eventually break though, I will be reporting that in this thread. We all need to know the truth about these parts.

So far they are doing a great job.

-pal215

 

i think i was replying to someone else about using the ams rear mustache delete along with poly side bushing. even though the poly bushing are stiff enough to prevent any huge movement, it does still allow small vibration through the diff (hence more quite in the car). the vibration could fatigue the solid mount mustache overtime. just my thought. im not a mechanical engineer though.

 

No worries, I totally understand what you're saying.

-pal215