I don't think that would be the problem only because I am pretty obsessive when it comes to cleaning and made sure to clean it well. I will definitely check out the passages on my throttle body if my fuel pump's voltage is not my problem.


Uploading a video now of how it cold starts and idles. If the video stinks and I need to film it again please let me know.

 

Kinda hard to read the computer screen sometimes. Sorry about that.

 

If you open up the biss some will it cold idle then?

 

I'm not aware of how well the idle adjustment works in Evoscan, I've never used it. What it could be is that the biss is out of adjustment and the ISC runs to the end of travel before supplying enough air for cold idle. At hot idle it seems to be working. The steps should be jumping around at cold start, not sitting at a constant 120.

Looking at your original post you say this problem started out of the blue and then came to stay. One thing that occurs to me is that if the computer thinks there's a problem with the mass air sensor it locks the ISC. Maybe it takes awhile for the air sensor to come on line. See if the engine starts and runs any different with the air sensor unplugged.

 

I'll play with the biss tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

I tried unplugging the maf it ran terribly and threw a check engine code almost instantly.

 

A picture is a 1000 words and a video is a million lol. Your car is not having a rough idle, so the problem can partially to hardly be attributed to the idle control valve. Try the biss screw as I previously said and it should bring the idle up but it might not keep it stable, it might though, so unless you get back to me with an after to biss screw re-adjustment result, I won't advice any further.









Marios

 

Just tried adjusting the BISS.
I turned out the screw until it would start on its own.
It idled around 700rpm. I raised it some more to 1200rpm.
The idle raised as the car warmed up. After 10 mins the car had gotten up to 1600rpm and rising.
The car was fully warmed up so I turned the screw back in until 1100rpm.
Took it for a drive and then let it idle for 10 more minutes. The ISC steps were 0.

I'll let it cool down and then film the cold start and see if that helped.

 

I'd suggest your ISC is still kaput.

 

I think you may be right
I took the isc out to test it. From what I've read it's supposed to move in and out and click when you turn the key. Mine did nothing.

However, why would evoscan have an isc step reading if it didn't work?

I'll look pretty dumb if it was the isc the entire time. I just didn't figure that a brand new part could be bad.

 

Yeah, it should move and make noise when the ignition is turned to run on a cold engine. What Evoscan is showing you? - dunno. You can test the motor coils for resistance. Other possibilities are wiring or ECU. Maybe somebody knows if the 8 and 9 ISC's are interchangeable. I don't.

 

Idle issues are a bit of a tricky problem. That's why I said get another idle control valve from a friend. From the video you posted it did not sound nor , apart from low rpm, show that the idle control valve is faulty. But it could infact be partially faulty, or the motor itself be ok but not getting the right voltage for some reason , and it will mis-function. This could also not show on a log through evoscan. That's why I said check the voltage on it.




You might get away with it, if the idle stables out after the biss screw re-adjustment.









Marios

 

I checked the resistance on idle control valve and it was good.
Then I turned the key on and checked for voltage.
I got 11.55 volts from the two in the middle of the connector
The car is cold.

Im trying to find someone locally who will let me try their valve. Hopefully someone replies.

From what I understand, these iac/isc are used in a few other cars like the regular lancer and even some Dodges. I'm going to the junkyard and I'll pick up a few and see if any of them do the trick.
Also I still need to check the voltage at the fuel pump relay and resistor.

 

Yes the same idle control valve is used in Cedia and normal Lancer models.








Marios

 

I bought 3
They all did the same thing. The car idles at 2500rpm with all 3. The biss screw is all the way down.

Every time I shut it off and immediately start it up the idle goes down. It went down to 1200 and raised up to 1500


I'm at a loss

I'll edit this post as it changes

Update: the idle came down and I set it in evoscan. It's idling nice again. I'll see what happens after I let it cool down overnight. Fingers crossed

Update: the car still doesn't cold start idle well

 

This car has a MAF?