Alright, so I am putting my transmission back together, and I noticed there are two direction the input shaft 3rd & 4th hub sleeve synchronizer can be positioned.

In the picture I have it facing up, from the PDF I am using for the overhaul I believe I have it positioned it correctly facing up as you can see from the picture. The PDF shows the ring facing up towards the input shaft to the clutch. I want to make sure before assembly I have this correct.

I hope this post makes sense, if for any reason anyone needs a better description to the 2nd ring on the synchronizer ring, I can photo shop an arrow in the photo that will be easier to identify.

In the picture you can see the yellow paint marker that passes over the ring mentioned in this thread.

Please as always keep what you think to the sky, I am looking to have a down to earth answer from people that have an answer or have performed over hauls and understand the transmission very well. I just cannot put this trans back together to find out I have it backwards.

It may be positioned correctly, but like the bother sleeves, when they are in 1 of 2 positions, they stayed locked without the detents, and this sleeve if I move it up, it wants to fall back down. Not sure if that is normal, or I need to switch its position. Thanks for the feedback

 

Per the FSM, the groove goes towards third gear (or towards the clutch). I followed this manual when I put mine together and it shifts great.

Here is a link to the manual.
http://evoscan.com/manuals/Evo7/WSM/G22.PDF

Also, you're putting the trans together the hard way. You should have the other case clamped to the bench to stack the shafts on.

 

Like so...

 

Alright, looks like I am good shape then. I was pretty sure I had it correct. If you look at the picture in the FSM, which I used, the input shaft assembly picture shows the groove, I just wanted to be 100% sure on this before placing it back together.

Also i found it much easier to put the trans together with this case, because the output shaft get int the way of the differential and must be put together with the input shaft and forks as well.The way I did it, I was able to lay the input and output shaft with forks gentle into the case. Also you want to make sure the two spacers are in along with the output shaft bearing race, i wouldn't want that fall when putting the case on. I guess there are many ways!

Thank you all for the feedback, if anyone else has a picture like a posted that would be nice to see it! Thanks so much!

 

Glad to see other people doing their own tran's work.

I will working on mine the next time i pull it, when my clutch is done...

slowly compiling notes, images & stuff

 

I agree. I have been working on cars for many years, and I never got to familiarize with the transmission as much as I would like to. I am finally be able to now that I am willing to jump in.

 

The races should stay in the case, they are a very slight interference fit. To get the output shaft in after putting the diff in (with how I have mine in the pic), you just pick the diff up, and rock it to the side a bit.

 

The output race stays in, the other for the input shaft just fits in there and could come out, so I figured I would just do it all opposite. I will see how that goes. I also did it the way you mentioned twice. It's a little bit to shuffle it in there, but its manageable. Now that I know the 3&4 syncro sleeve is positioned correctly all I have to do is wait for my Mitsu-bond to come in, and the input shaft seal

 

As long as you got it together, and correctly

 

We nwill see next week, My parts come in then, I found out that mitsubishiparts.net seems to be a great site for very low prices on all Mitsu parts.

 

They have good pricing, they can be a bit slow with getting the parts to you though. ExtremePSI and STM also have good pricing, and are faster in my experience.