I agree. think its even more on black or larger turbo. reds and greens were clearly 4-500rpm. me personally would do whatever it takes to retain the factory twin scroll.

 

ss htz green here. i like it, spools fast enough to stomp on whatever i come across on the street.
nothing not fun about it, just need to drive it like a 2 liter not like a 6 liter.

 

I'd venture to say spool isn't really much of a concern for a street car.

 

Im gonna have to agree. My ss red with s2 pulls like a raped ape from hell.

The only gear i really feel the spool lag is 1st gear.

Cruised pch this weekend hunting for a snack.

2016 shelby cobra was on the menu.

 

going to hurt egos here

havent seen ss red or black doing 9s


just a lot of dyno # and no results

 

from my experience this statement sums up the entire evo community

 

I got more parts to the puzzle back from coating today. Now I just need to get my manifold finished welded as its just tac'd now and get that coated. Get some l19s and swap out my oil for the vr1 20w50 and ill be ready to get some! I might coat my ic piping to match the gold/black theme im doing now.

 

A lot of us couldn't give two craps about drag racing, though. I don't know of anyone that really goes much, any more.


20w50 is a great summer oil, especially if you have larger clearances. My car hated it this winter (I forgot it was in there). I had to swap it out LOL. We only see 32-34*F, or so, but it was enough to upset the engine.

 

I got a case of it form amazon so I figure I should try it. I don't drive the car in the winter so it will be alright.

 

Nice manifold.

 

3rd gear


Also, 4b11slayer If the tune and fuel is correct stock head studs will take alot of power. Stock things last awhile if they aren't rattled to death. I ran my stock engine at 28-30 psi on Ethanol for a long time before putting my new engine in. Just before installing it I put it on the dyno one last time and it kept making power so we stopped at 613/473 on the stock engine/cams/studs on the MHI red @39.

 

Abacus thats interesting to know. So when do you think studs are needed?

 

Wow! Didn't know you could push FP turbos that hard. Was your Red jb or bb? Was backpressure a concern at 39 psi? Also was this on E85? Sorry for the numerous questions.

 

4b11slayer
Since the stock engine is limited to around 400ft pounds you have to respect that limit as well as fuel . Its your tuners call.
I'm not a fan of the one by one method of replacing studs. The way the factory screwed them all down at once can not be replicated. Now, if you are doing a rebuild I would do upgraded studs.

Klaiceps
Back pressure on the stock engine was 38psi at 30psi on a BB red with MHI housing.Ethanol was used, On pump gas those numbers would never be achievable. For me and the people that respect the line its a simple rule. Pump gas =low boost. So many people don't respect that and wonder why things break. If ethanol isn't available then using race gas or something else to bring the octane up is CHEAP insurance IMO.

I didn't measure it at 39 but the engine picked up power from 32-35-39 so we ran it. I didn't think that turbo would make that much power or make that kind of graph but with good tuning and combination of parts things can come together.

Also, I prefer having the car on a dyno in a controlled environment. That way you can add boost/timing/fuel and see Exactly whats happening. My tuner has been at it for over a decade and the car has a standalone on it.

Relying on hobbyist software and a single knock sensor as you are barreling down public roads can only get so accurate.

 

I used stock head bolts for years at 330-430whp/24-30psi. I only swapped to studs so I won't have to keep buying bolts, if it comes apart again.