Hi.

I´m gonna try to explain the best way i can. I gonna buy a evo 3 as a Daliy driver. i am more interested in low/mid torque rather than high rpms etc. i have read ALOT about these setups, but now it only feels like water in my head haha. it feels like i don´t get any smarter anyway. i have a 4g64 short block at home and planing use the evo 3 head .the setups i have been looking at is: stock , long rod (156 mm rods) and a 2.2 destroker 162mm rods (seems to be the best of everything). which setup would be the best for me? what about the rod ratio? the 2.2l setup would have 1.72 and the long rod 1.56. how important is this in the reality? i want it to be reliable in first hand. if i go with this block, i am putting in the oil squirters.

2.2 destroker parts:

crank 94mm
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...roductid=21351

pistons
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1662&page=1

conrods
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...roductid=27385

long rod setup:

Oem crank

Conrods:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1339&page=1

Pistons:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1662&page=1

 

94mm crank in a 4g64 block gets a 159mm rod (custom). use the piston I linked below and you would get about 9.75:1 compression. You could also call wiseco and get a custom piston with the correct dish to get the compression you want, but it will be more expensive.
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1586&page=1


The 1.012 compression height piston that you linked, or any 1.012 comp height piston, are not a good idea to use.

 

ah okay im really trying to understand this ( im a newbie on this). so the 162 mm rods wont work then? and 159mm rods are custom?

 

Just do a long rod 156mm 2.4. You'll have plenty low and mid range.

 

okay. so the 156mm rods is the longest you can go with oem crank? i´m planing to have 400 hp in the enigne and go with both e85 and regular (on the winter here in sweden).what do you think about this setup:

oem crank 100 mm

rods:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1339&page=1

pistons
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...at=1662&page=1

 

Correct and correct.

 

Just curious, but you guys that have a 4g64. is it really worth the effort to be as good as the 4g63? the 4g64 needs:

4g64 cam gears (if you do it right)
4g63 oil squirters (the highest cost)
4g64 timing belt (con, no kevlar belt though)
plug the 5 oil holes on the 4g64

im starting to get unsure if all the trouble is worth it? if i´ll go with the 64, it would be a long rod 156mm (1.56 rod ratio) rods anyways. but if i put the 100 mm crank in the 63 it would 2.3L but 1.5 Rod ratio

 

why would the main bearing located squirter be any worse than the ones in the oil gallery?

 

My 2.4 with a 150mm rod. Made 908 awhp.

What 5 oil holes are you talking about? I had to plug nothing. You can use oem evo cam gears. I used an oem evo 9 timing belt.

 

I would go with the I beam rods just in case you get wild and decide to turn it up later down the road.

 

im gonna put it in a evo 3. it needs to plug 5 oil holes because they are exposed if i don´t i have read both that the 63 timing belt will not fit and other says it does. because the 64 block doessn´t have the oil squirters, so that immgonna need. so that´s why im wondering if it´s really worth the trouble to go with the 64 block instead of the 63? and only put in the 64 crank and have 2.3L or does the 64 have some other benefits that i´ll don´t know about?

 

what do you mean? the 64 block does not have any squirters. and the 63 block have it

 

Are you sure you want to daily an Evo 3? I have an Evo 1 (granted it's an RS with stiff suspension), but they break so often and aren't really that pleasant to use everyday.

Also keep in mind - our transmissions do not like torque, and you can't find replacements for broken gears anymore. I would stay 2.0L long rod.

 

2.0 longrod

 

im not after high rpms as i said. more low / mid range torque. but i can´t decied if it would be better (maybe not a difference anyway?) to go with 2.3 instead and skip the hassle with a 64? i know the bore is slighty bigger. but the little difference i can see is the rod ratio with 1.5 in the 63 and 1.56 long rod 64. so the question is if it is worth the trouble to only gain 0,6 mm in rod ratio? i´m reading alots of thread about this, but it still not clear if the 64 are better over a 4g63 2,3L