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Best fix for vented TIAL 50mm BOV

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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 08:11 AM
  #16  
240Z TwinTurbo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cursedsm
I have a stock bov and I can tell you its not dual port.
If I say it's Christmas you need to hang out your stocking.

Take off the damn BOV, flip it over and you will find the bottom port right next to the valve as shown in the picture below.


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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cursedsm
You realize it will change he has cams right? It goes of vacuum not what size turbo you have. Different cams will make the vacuum in the system different.

fully aware. look at the tial chart for the Q. white spring is -12in/hg to -15in/hg (-5.8 to -7.3psi). I run right about -20in/hg on stock cams, with cams will probably land right in the middle of the listed range.

plus ive seen it used in 2 cammed cars on track, personally.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 06:36 AM
  #18  
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From: Rochester, MN
Thanks everyone for the excellent feedback. I was leaning towards a new spring + recirc kit for the TiAL (about $95), but ended up purchasing a Synapse Synchronic BOV from a member here. I'll be able to recirculate that and sell the TiAL... Figure I'll come out better that way.

With that said, if anyone's looking for a Red TiAL Q w/ adapter... it's only about 8 months old.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 08:42 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
fully aware. look at the tial chart for the Q. white spring is -12in/hg to -15in/hg (-5.8 to -7.3psi). I run right about -20in/hg on stock cams, with cams will probably land right in the middle of the listed range.

plus ive seen it used in 2 cammed cars on track, personally.
You realized according to that chart depending if you have a 50mm or a Q your looking at a plain spring for the 50mm and a yellow for the Q right. And it will depend on what cams. I ran my s2 cams ran a white spring with them. Now I run Kelford 288s and I had to switch to black spring. Different vac now.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 08:44 AM
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From: Pinckney, Michigan
Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
If I say it's Christmas you need to hang out your stocking.

Take off the damn BOV, flip it over and you will find the bottom port right next to the valve as shown in the picture below.


LOL my x mas sucked as usual, and its been years since I've ran a stock bov. That is good info though I will have to try to find it and look at it now you posted the pretty pic.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 11:12 AM
  #21  
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Squatch, pm sent
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 01:23 PM
  #22  
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I pretty much agree with killer penguin, I'm on the side that says the least amount of spring necessary is best. You don't want the valve to only open when full vacuum is reached. Any time there is a decrease in throttle position you should be venting some air. This setting drives the smoothest and least risk of upsetting the car on lift. Greddy type s (single spring mod) or FV works solid in that department.

there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 07:21 AM
  #23  
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From: Streets of willow
Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
I pretty much agree with killer penguin, I'm on the side that says the least amount of spring necessary is best. You don't want the valve to only open when full vacuum is reached. Any time there is a decrease in throttle position you should be venting some air. This setting drives the smoothest and least risk of upsetting the car on lift. Greddy type s (single spring mod) or FV works solid in that department.

there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
Some of these stock and old style bovs cause throttle hang .

Since i switched over to TIAL with appropriate spring throttle hang went away.
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 01:02 PM
  #24  
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From: in a garage
Factory valves are open at idle.
That way they vent more and surge less.

The best BOV is a modified factory one.
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