Best fix for vented TIAL 50mm BOV
fully aware. look at the tial chart for the Q. white spring is -12in/hg to -15in/hg (-5.8 to -7.3psi). I run right about -20in/hg on stock cams, with cams will probably land right in the middle of the listed range.
plus ive seen it used in 2 cammed cars on track, personally.
Thanks everyone for the excellent feedback. I was leaning towards a new spring + recirc kit for the TiAL (about $95), but ended up purchasing a Synapse Synchronic BOV from a member here. I'll be able to recirculate that and sell the TiAL... Figure I'll come out better that way.
With that said, if anyone's looking for a Red TiAL Q w/ adapter... it's only about 8 months old.
With that said, if anyone's looking for a Red TiAL Q w/ adapter... it's only about 8 months old.
fully aware. look at the tial chart for the Q. white spring is -12in/hg to -15in/hg (-5.8 to -7.3psi). I run right about -20in/hg on stock cams, with cams will probably land right in the middle of the listed range.
plus ive seen it used in 2 cammed cars on track, personally.
plus ive seen it used in 2 cammed cars on track, personally.
LOL my x mas sucked as usual, and its been years since I've ran a stock bov. That is good info though I will have to try to find it and look at it now you posted the pretty pic.
I pretty much agree with killer penguin, I'm on the side that says the least amount of spring necessary is best. You don't want the valve to only open when full vacuum is reached. Any time there is a decrease in throttle position you should be venting some air. This setting drives the smoothest and least risk of upsetting the car on lift. Greddy type s (single spring mod) or FV works solid in that department.
there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
I pretty much agree with killer penguin, I'm on the side that says the least amount of spring necessary is best. You don't want the valve to only open when full vacuum is reached. Any time there is a decrease in throttle position you should be venting some air. This setting drives the smoothest and least risk of upsetting the car on lift. Greddy type s (single spring mod) or FV works solid in that department.
there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
there's a plethora of tial threads where by the surging and fluttering and bucking were solved by going to a lighter spring.
Since i switched over to TIAL with appropriate spring throttle hang went away.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
D Grade
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
4
Nov 10, 2011 10:23 AM
turboDan
For Sale - Wanting To Buy (WTB) Or Trade (WTT)
1
May 8, 2006 01:52 PM
Dasneak MR
For Sale/WTB - Engine / Drivetrain / Power
9
Feb 14, 2006 04:37 PM











