Rom

Hi all,

So I installed the Torque Solutions 4-piece mounts, and took the car for its first drive. It's pretty harsh - and loud - in the cabin now..

I went out and bought 4 brand new OEM mounts, which turned up today, so my questions are:

how much flex do OEM Evo mounts have when they are *brand new* vs the TS mounts? I plan on changing out the rear first and seeing how it is, then the others if it's still too harsh. If brand new OEM doesn't flex too badly, then I don't mind changing them every 30K miles. However, not sure if there are any studies on brand new mounts and engine deflection. My use case is NOT drag racing or launching. Only road racing on road circuits (as well as daily driving of course).

Also, I saw mention that the TS mounts "break in". Is that just people getting used to it, or does it really soften up, and if so, how long typically?

Thanks!

S.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You should be fine with only replacing the rear mount (trans to cross member on fire wall side). That one makes a lot of NVH.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

^^^ I agree as well

I run only 3 of their mounts: Driver, passenger & the roll stopper. Did not do the trans mount due the NVH reports (my RS is noisy enough)

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

this is good to know, I have aftermarket mounts on mine and the feel and noise is horrible, I might change the trans one back to oem now!

Rom

I swear, do Mitsubishi engineers sit around all day thinking up ways to make things darn near impossible to do? Got the old mount out easily. Got the new mount in place but the bolts and nuts are insane.. all they had to do was have the nut pre-welded to the bracket on the car (so you just had to slide in the bolt and screw it on), and have the cross bolt have a pointy end (like the freaking passenger side bolt!) since it doesn't automatically align up on the other side just because you have one side of the bolt in (and at this point you are contending with engine weight and position)!

Anyway, just had to vent.. they seem to do this all over the place. I refer you to exhibit A, the timing belt job, if there are any doubts... Or how about exhibit B, the clutch job.. or even just filling the blasted transfer case (which is common for it pretending like it's full when it isn't)..

anyway, back to work..

Thanks!

S.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The nut isn't welded onto the bracket because it would be harder to line the bolt up to thread into a nut, vs just getting through the hole.

Rom

Hi all,

Just to close the loop on this... to recap I had all four torque solutions mounts just installed as part of my rebuild. I replaced the rear mount back to a brand new OEM mount but noise and vibrations were still pretty harsh on my built transmission and 2.3L stroker with no balance shaft. Once I hit 3rd gear, gear noise still increased dramatically, and you basically felt like you were sitting with the engine, and idle vibration was loud and noisy too. Changing to rear stock mount definitely helped a bit, but not a huge amount.

Today I replaced the two side mounts with brand new OEM ones too (so now I just have the Torque Solutions front mount to help with any engine roll), and it's night and day. The interior is now almost stock quiet, vibrations are minimal and 3rd gear and up gear noise is barely audible.

Anyway, I'm sure with different configurations (e.g. stock engine with stock transmission) 3 stiff mounts is probably fine. However, on a built stroked motor with deleted balance shaft and built transmission with noisier high power handling gears, I would recommend only going solid on the front unless it's a dedicated track car. Even then I'd probably only recommend it if you like to drag race (launch) your Evo (something I never do - my Evo only sees road racing). It's subjective of course - maybe you like the harsh race car feel on the road - but for me it was way too much!

So I guess now I've got 3 (sides and rear) virtually brand new Torque Solutions mounts I'm gonna put up for sale (probably 5 miles of use on them)!

Thanks!

S.