so i wonder if instead of crushing, you enlarged the inlet from the intake manifold of the stock valve if that might net a better result. If thats even possible.

Or maybe do both and hold even more boost.

 

Not cost effective. Lol
By enlarging the intake, you will get more surface for pressure to force valve to open. If you want it to hold more pressure, plug the bottom of diaphragm or leave it open to atmosphere. But the side effect is the BOV won't open as easily and could hold too much pressure. Be ready to put a light spring to compensate.

 

im good lol, just thinking out loud. My type-s still does the business.

 

What ever you do, don't plumb both sides of the diaphragm to the same intake.

 

Try plumbing the bottom to EBC leg with WGA. Test that idea for me.

I like that design because it ties the BOV with the WGA (which makes sense) and still has the vacuum control of intake manifold.
This should hold more boost because pressure is purged and can be in vacuum when EBC is open. Tee it at the EBC for most vacuum. Once you hit set boost, BOV can open easier because pressure is higher before the intercooler than after. That location makes sense to me.

 

next time im in there ill give it a shot, have plenty of hose laying around. I'll update this thread with the results, no promises when ill get around to it though.

 

If there were a better way, don't y'all think it would have been done by now?

 

In regards to what evoixer is asking me to do you would have to have a type s or a dv with that extra port to try it. What i was suggesting with the stock valve might just not be possible or practical. It might work if you could though, ive never seen it tried, but ive also never really looked.

 

I bought all the parts to redesign my stock DV to have a port on the side and plug the factory hole. It is doable but a lot of work and with extra connections comes higher potential for malfunctions. In the end, I crushed mine because I ran out of time (didn't want to reschedule my tuning session).

I was planning to install a nipple to the bottom side of diaphragm passage instead of drilling a hole to vent to air.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...it-mr-bov.html

 

I originally thought Mitsubishi designed the stock DV to limit boost to 26 psi to protect the engine by sacrificing the turbo. Many others argued that wasn't the case. If they're right, then that's the same answer to your question.

 

There's no parts to buy.

You block one hole and make another in a different place.


It's been done for years.




Yes, it's a safety device (second line of defence), so you can't (harder to) overboost the engine by accident and blow it up.
The first line of defence is the wastegate control.

 

My initial thoughts were correct. The, I've modified a stock bpv in all the ways you mention, I only use genuine greddy type s and FV. They simply put drive the best of any valve. Smoothness counts. I'm going to keep running the fv if it seems like the pitch changes or lift flutter happens I'll go from there. Really is an underrated piece imho

blow off valve typically vta
bypass valve bypasses and recalculates. I always recalculate. It has its merrits.

I have even used a Tial wastegate as a bypass valve with good results (bypass ducted to exhaust manifold of course)

 

I bought 3 mm and 4 mm nipple with thread to tap it into the hole. In addition, I bought 3mm and 4mm drill bit and tapping bits.

 

A soldering iron works and takes less than 5 minutes.

That's with a plastic BOV.

 

How do you solder with plastic? Wouldn't JB Weld be a better option?