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MANLEY prone to cracking?

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Old May 1, 2018 | 08:24 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
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Old May 1, 2018 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
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Old May 1, 2018 | 09:10 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Abacus
What is the background on the car? Boost level, Power level, fuel, harmonic balancer, clutch? Everything has its limits. Even stock cranks can develop cracks.
All of those answer are in my sig.

480-550hp
93 until Aug 2017
Exedy twin

.... if thats the limit of a billet crank...
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Old May 1, 2018 | 10:44 PM
  #34  
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Hey xRoguex, how was the car driven and who build the shortblock? Also, how did you find out the crank was cracked before pulling the motor? I've been running a 100mm billet for a year now without it breaking and it has not had an easy life.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 03:56 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Pal215
Hey xRoguex, how was the car driven and who build the shortblock? Also, how did you find out the crank was cracked before pulling the motor? I've been running a 100mm billet for a year now without it breaking and it has not had an easy life.
Built by David Buschur. At times it had an easy life, others it saw 8500rpm and 13x traps.

The motor was pulled because it has been using A LOT of oil lately and it was time to refresh things. It had just over 30k. on it.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 04:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
Built by David Buschur. At times it had an easy life, others it saw 8500rpm and 13x traps.

The motor was pulled because it has been using A LOT of oil lately and it was time to refresh things. It had just over 30k. on it.
Are you running the ultra light weight billet one or the standard one ? Just curious as I run the 100mm standard billet one as Tom from Tscomptuned recommended me to go that route instead when he built my engine, definitely didn’t want to run the forged unit as I have heard of it cracking.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 06:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ctfpevoVIII


Are you running the ultra light weight billet one or the standard one ? Just curious as I run the 100mm standard billet one as Tom from Tscomptuned recommended me to go that route instead when he built my engine, definitely didn’t want to run the forged unit as I have heard of it cracking.

This was the first ever billet that manley created.

The current LW version did not exist then.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:29 PM
  #38  
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There are alot of possibilities. If it was using alot of oil and oil was going into the combustion chamber that can hurt octane and cause knock. Good thing you pulled it apart to refresh /inspect things.
Did you have an aftermarket harmonic dampner ?
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Abacus
There are alot of possibilities. If it was using alot of oil and oil was going into the combustion chamber that can hurt octane and cause knock. Good thing you pulled it apart to refresh /inspect things.
Did you have an aftermarket harmonic dampner ?
There was no knock.

No.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:40 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Abacus
Did you have an aftermarket harmonic dampner ?
Or were you running a 14 year old fossilized damper like I recently replaced on my car. Dampers have only one purpose and that is protect the crank from cracking.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:44 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by barneyb
Or were you running a 14 year old fossilized damper like I recently replaced on my car. Dampers have only one purpose and that is protect the crank from cracking.
oem
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Old May 2, 2018 | 08:58 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
oem
he was referring to oem.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 09:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
he was referring to oem.
i am well aware.

i think more of the cracking issue is due to it being made in china.. and poor quality control... over dampener selection.
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Old May 2, 2018 | 09:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
i am well aware.

i think more of the cracking issue is due to it being made in china.. and poor quality control... over dampener selection.

When will Manley get back to you?
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Old May 2, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #45  
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Yeah, probably chinesium, but for cranks in general that little strip of rubber in the damper is there to absorb vibration and lessen crank metal fatigue. Overtime rubber hardens. My car is about to have its 15th birthday (please no cards) so when replacing timing belts last fall I decided to include a new damper with fresh rubber. I mention this because I suspect this is something most people would never think about.
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