captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

Hey there fellas, first post here on evolutionm but I’ve been a member for a few months now, having bought my IX in mid September. I’ve already put over 8500 miles on her (lol).
Now my question is regarding the tune that I got done on the car. I was expecting some bigger numbers after the tune. My tuner was only able to get the car to make 25ish psi with the GReddy Profec-B EBC maxed out... He didn’t really explain why or anything but he said I wasn’t bleeding
boost from the BOV which would have been my first thought. I was in a rush and couldn’t ask more questions and the car runs FANTASTIC.
Now I understand the basics of a turbo setup but I’m no guru. Any help with why I can’t run more boost would be greatly appreciated... The FP Red lives at 28+psi lol
My guess is that my WG needs to be upgraded??
Relevant mods:
-FP Red BB Turbo
-Stock WG
-JDM EVO IX DV
-O2 Dump
-GReddy Profec-B EBC (old school)
-93 octane fuel
-Tuned on speed density
-385whp/357wtq

Also another thing I should mention is that the car holds 25psi from 4500-7600. I’m not experiencing any taper whatsoever. Which I would think is to be expected with the the flow rate of the red at this boost level... correct?

thanks!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Did you do a boost leak text?
Why are you running the stock wastegate actuator?

Biggiesacks

^^ boost leak test, at least a few PSI above the MAX psi you want to run.

captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the swift replies. Most of the things done to the car were done when I bought it, so I couldn’t give you a precise reasoning. The previous owner said he was fairly certain it was the stock WG so I took his word for it. I haven’t done a boost leak test as of yet either... Do you recommend a certain store/place to get the adaptor to do the test?

Biggiesacks

i got all the stuff for my tester at Lowes, but any hardware store would probably have what you need

captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

Okay cool. I’ll check out Lowe’s and get the test done tomorrow hopefully, I’ll check in with my results when I finish!
Hopefully close to 450 is in my future

Bladey

My Stock acuator would hold to around 31ish PSI on my fp green, changing that could help. Also who is the tuner? He could have been saying that to save your bottom end?

captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

The car was tuned by Sergio at Kings Performance in Orlando, FL. It was tuned very conservatively with 0 knock on pump gas. I could totally understand if he wanted to keep the boost low, but my knob for boost control on the profec-b is literally maxed out. I don’t know how the tuning dynamics work, but I’d guess that if it’s to the max it would be giving me all the ebc is capable of correct? Idk lol
Wont know more until tomorrow after the boost leak test!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

On a manual boost controller, 10psi over the wastegate's rated pressure may be all you're going to get. Do a boost leak test, if you find no leaks, upgrade to a 3 port electronic boost control solenoid like grimmspeed, and/or get an 18psi or 25psi actuator from FP.

Biggiesacks

the Profec-B uses a mac valve so its kind of more like a 3 port then an MBC, but they are garbage, and if anyone wants to argue that I have one sitting in my closet ill sell you on the cheap lol. Do yourself and your tuner a favor and get a proper ECU controlled 3-port like the grimmspeed LGTD suggested. There are many advantages to having ECU controlled boost, to name a few, boost cut on knock, boost cut on AFR out of range, Gear dependent boost control, different boost profiles for your different maps etc.

captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

I was planning on going the grimmspeed route in the near future simply because the GReddy is outdated and lacks a lot of features, like you said. Regardless, it’s working fine for me now and I’m having no problems with overboosting/boost creep/taper/etc... I just can’t get more than 25psi haha
Got all the stuff from Lowe’s, will update later.
Also, what is a MAC valve?

captiveis1

iTrader: (1)

So my attempt at a boost leak test was an utter disaster lol
Couldnt get the system to pressurize, most likely due to my crappy air compressor and its PR. I may just go the route of buying the little air bottles from Walmart or wherever. I was reading that some people had good luck with that method.
On top of that, after putting the car back together I’ve developed some sort of exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold/DP area. It is very strange to me that after I take the car apart I have a new noise... but I didn’t touch the left side of the engine bay besides removing my heat shield and I am sure it is coming from that vicinity. Removing the heat shield does not alleviate the problem either.
It isn’t terrible though, no abnormalities with the AFRs and boost is holding like normal... Guess I’ll check it out in the am when the car cools down

4b11slayer

Do a boost leak test.
But likely its the wsstegate actuator. I bet he waste gate duty cycle table is pretty high.

Buddy had same issus on evo 9. Ended up throwing in a turbosmart wga.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

I would also move to a 3 port and control the boost thru the ecu.

If you are on the stock actuator then moving to a 18-20 psi unit is a good upgrade. A stiffer spring will also help keep the waste gate closed on spool up but don't go too stiff . You want to be able to run low boost for pump gas and have better boost control on the shifts.

The Red is a nice turbo , low boost for pump gas, high boost for ethanol/race gas and it will be rewarding.

4b11slayer

Yea what ^ said. Also idk if im blind but dont see injectors being used. You might need to uprgade fuel system when raising boost....