Afr acting crazy...any ideas welcome
#16
I was just comparing it to how it was. Never used to do this. I disconnected the battery for a while and same thing. Idk what to do anymore. So frustrated. Only thing would be to install the cams that were on there and see if it still does this but now there’s springs and retainers on there. Idk. I asked the tuner if he could just tune it out. Lean it out some and he said stock ecu it affects the whole map. Only way he was able to do it was choosing bigger injectors in the options and this is not right. Threw the original map back on where it’s going rich. Is this how stock ecu is?
#17
Evolved Member
Unplug and check you map sensor connection. ???
Bigger cams actually capture less air at low engine speeds. VE is going to be lower throughout the part throttle range (below 4000 rpm) thus requiring less fuel. Your situation seems slightly extreme but idle afr can change quite a lot with a cam change. Just retune and leave it at that.
Bigger cams actually capture less air at low engine speeds. VE is going to be lower throughout the part throttle range (below 4000 rpm) thus requiring less fuel. Your situation seems slightly extreme but idle afr can change quite a lot with a cam change. Just retune and leave it at that.
#20
Actually, i tried a brand new map sensor last night and same. I was pissed on the way home last night from the tuner and went wot and afrs were good. 11.3 or so. Idle and cruising are rich. Tuner said the only way he could get it to lean out was scaling injector to 700 or so injectors and it leaned it out but thats not correct way to do it. Something is up. Unless tuner doesnt know much of what hes doing. Ive been going over everything today and i even did a boost leak test again, checked timing, tightened manifolds. Everything is correct. I even changed the plate that has pump relay, injector resistor box, and some other crap on it and same thing. I had an extra one laying around. Unless injectors are bad but i took them to boost lab and had them cleaned and flow tested. I mean, please guys if you think of anything else ill check it. I dont know what to do. I was thinking of throwing the bc cams back in and see but damn dont really want to go through all that. Thought of getting new injectors, aftermarket fpr, and cam gears but i have a kid on the way and dont want to just throw money at this thing. Maybe i can post the map on here and one of you gurus can check it out and maybe make an adjustment. Im willing to try it. Just have to figure out how to get the tactrix 2.0 to read the map. It gives me an error mesage.
#24
I’m over here pulling valve cover to see if maybe a lifter didn’t inflate and checking cam trigger. I’m double checking my work. I even called stm and they went over everything with me. They have no idea. ****. Maybe someone has stock injectors laying around I can try.
#27
Account Disabled
It should fire with the first flick of the key without having to crank for 5 seconds first.
The current consumption is directly proportional to the pressure.
A certain amount of resistance is essential to aid pressure regulation.
Or to put it another way, zero electrical resistance = zero pressure regulation.
So that's at least 3 things wrong with it (the cam change too) and you haven't looked at the sparkplugs yet.
If he actually knew what he was doing, it would be fixed a long time ago.
.
Last edited by RightSaid fred; Mar 29, 2018 at 03:39 PM.
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Ok Fred, you made me dig up my notes.
Take this for what it's worth.
These are the two that I tested. I looked at my old notes and actually did test with engine running. Blue goes to Relay #2. Red goes to Fuel Pump. With engine running, I got 14.0V on blue and 8.55V on red.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 29, 2018 at 04:22 PM.
#29
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
It always draws more current than a stock pump, that's how it moves more fuel.
The current consumption is directly proportional to the pressure.
A certain amount of resistance is essential to aid pressure regulation.
Or to put it another way, zero electrical resistance = zero pressure regulation.
The current consumption is directly proportional to the pressure.
A certain amount of resistance is essential to aid pressure regulation.
Or to put it another way, zero electrical resistance = zero pressure regulation.
https://streetandcircuit.biz/perform...tive-vs-fakes/
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 29, 2018 at 04:08 PM.
#30
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
For those who wants to know my logic: fuel pump resistor is always connected to fuel pump (blue to red). When Relay #3 is off, it connects both of these together, giving the pump full voltage from Relay #2. By testing each separately, we get resister voltage at Relay #3 (Red) and the high flow voltage (blue).
...BUT I'm making this up, so everyone needs to check on their own!
...BUT I'm making this up, so everyone needs to check on their own!
Ok Fred, you made me dig up my notes.
Take this for what it's worth.
These are the two that I tested. I looked at my old notes and actually did test with engine running. Blue goes to Relay #2. Red goes to Fuel Pump. With engine running, I got 14.0V on blue and 8.55V on red.
Take this for what it's worth.
These are the two that I tested. I looked at my old notes and actually did test with engine running. Blue goes to Relay #2. Red goes to Fuel Pump. With engine running, I got 14.0V on blue and 8.55V on red.