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I was just comparing it to how it was. Never used to do this. I disconnected the battery for a while and same thing. Idk what to do anymore. So frustrated. Only thing would be to install the cams that were on there and see if it still does this but now there’s springs and retainers on there. Idk. I asked the tuner if he could just tune it out. Lean it out some and he said stock ecu it affects the whole map. Only way he was able to do it was choosing bigger injectors in the options and this is not right. Threw the original map back on where it’s going rich. Is this how stock ecu is?
Unplug and check you map sensor connection. ???
Bigger cams actually capture less air at low engine speeds. VE is going to be lower throughout the part throttle range (below 4000 rpm) thus requiring less fuel. Your situation seems slightly extreme but idle afr can change quite a lot with a cam change. Just retune and leave it at that.
Actually, i tried a brand new map sensor last night and same. I was pissed on the way home last night from the tuner and went wot and afrs were good. 11.3 or so. Idle and cruising are rich. Tuner said the only way he could get it to lean out was scaling injector to 700 or so injectors and it leaned it out but thats not correct way to do it. Something is up. Unless tuner doesnt know much of what hes doing. Ive been going over everything today and i even did a boost leak test again, checked timing, tightened manifolds. Everything is correct. I even changed the plate that has pump relay, injector resistor box, and some other crap on it and same thing. I had an extra one laying around. Unless injectors are bad but i took them to boost lab and had them cleaned and flow tested. I mean, please guys if you think of anything else ill check it. I dont know what to do. I was thinking of throwing the bc cams back in and see but damn dont really want to go through all that. Thought of getting new injectors, aftermarket fpr, and cam gears but i have a kid on the way and dont want to just throw money at this thing. Maybe i can post the map on here and one of you gurus can check it out and maybe make an adjustment. Im willing to try it. Just have to figure out how to get the tactrix 2.0 to read the map. It gives me an error mesage.
I’m over here pulling valve cover to see if maybe a lifter didn’t inflate and checking cam trigger. I’m double checking my work. I even called stm and they went over everything with me. They have no idea. ****. Maybe someone has stock injectors laying around I can try.
I’m over here pulling valve cover to see if maybe a lifter didn’t inflate and checking cam trigger. I’m double checking my work. I even called stm and they went over everything with me. They have no idea. ****. Maybe someone has stock injectors laying around I can try.
I have mine from last year. It's in ziplock in a box
One thing I noticed is the fuel pressure gauge reads 0 in the morning. I used to be able to let the car sit for a couple of weeks and when I go to start the car pressure would still be around 30 psi.
It means you've got an internal fuel leak. Either at the pump or at the FPR. Some dirt stuck in the FPR valve will do it, you should see about 30 to 33 PSI on the gauge when you shut the engine down. That's due to the pump shutting off when there's still vacuum on the FPR. If you clamp the fuel return line after you shut it off you will work it out by watching the gauge
Originally Posted by 2winscroll
Little a little bit of leakdown is fine. Pressure will drop after sitting on some cars, really not relevant in you situation.
It's OK if you're happy using low quality parts.
It should fire with the first flick of the key without having to crank for 5 seconds first.
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
I tested with engine off (pump was not running) at Relay #3 and got 8.1V and 12.1V. With engine running, I get 14.1V average at battery.
You just made all that up because with the pump not running there's no voltage drop ans so you read 12v both sides of the resistor.
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
If you replace with Wally 255 pump, it draws very close to factory pump (probably the most efficient aftermarket pump).
:
It always draws more current than a stock pump, that's how it moves more fuel.
The current consumption is directly proportional to the pressure.
A certain amount of resistance is essential to aid pressure regulation.
Or to put it another way, zero electrical resistance = zero pressure regulation.
So that's at least 3 things wrong with it (the cam change too) and you haven't looked at the sparkplugs yet.
Originally Posted by nor11384
Tuner said the only way he could get it to lean out was scaling injector to 700 or so injectors and it leaned it out but thats not correct way to do it. Something is up. Unless tuner doesnt know much of what hes doing. .
If he actually knew what he was doing, it would be fixed a long time ago.
.
Last edited by RightSaid fred; Mar 29, 2018 at 03:39 PM.
You just made all that up because with the pump not running there's no voltage drop ans so you read 12v both sides of the resistor.
Ok Fred, you made me dig up my notes.
Take this for what it's worth.
These are the two that I tested. I looked at my old notes and actually did test with engine running. Blue goes to Relay #2. Red goes to Fuel Pump. With engine running, I got 14.0V on blue and 8.55V on red.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 29, 2018 at 04:22 PM.
It always draws more current than a stock pump, that's how it moves more fuel.
The current consumption is directly proportional to the pressure.
A certain amount of resistance is essential to aid pressure regulation.
Or to put it another way, zero electrical resistance = zero pressure regulation.
For those who wants to know my logic: fuel pump resistor is always connected to fuel pump (blue to red). When Relay #3 is off, it connects both of these together, giving the pump full voltage from Relay #2. By testing each separately, we get resister voltage at Relay #3 (Red) and the high flow voltage (blue).
...BUT I'm making this up, so everyone needs to check on their own!
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
Ok Fred, you made me dig up my notes.
Take this for what it's worth.
These are the two that I tested. I looked at my old notes and actually did test with engine running. Blue goes to Relay #2. Red goes to Fuel Pump. With engine running, I got 14.0V on blue and 8.55V on red.
