What motor should I go with?
#17
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
For about $3k, you get brand new oem block, oem pistons, oem rods, and oem crankshaft assembled. If you get a built block, rods will run you $800-1200, crankshaft $700-1500, pistons about $600, used block about $1000, bearings about $100, machine shop to hone block to each piston about $1100, and assembly of pistons (blue printed) about $800.
Since you're only looking for 500whp, OEM can handle it and save you $2k or more. You still need full head with valve cover, all timing and oiling pan, cooler, & oil pump components. Don't forget about water pump, alternator, power steering, AC?, clutch/master & slave cylinders, radiator, intercooler, tranny, transfer case, driveshaft, rear differential, axles, intake & exhaust manifolds, throttle body, turbo, full exhaust, MAF, intercooler pipes, smog components, fuel lines/rails/injectors, and hope fuel power source isn't hacked up. Did I miss anything?
Since you're only looking for 500whp, OEM can handle it and save you $2k or more. You still need full head with valve cover, all timing and oiling pan, cooler, & oil pump components. Don't forget about water pump, alternator, power steering, AC?, clutch/master & slave cylinders, radiator, intercooler, tranny, transfer case, driveshaft, rear differential, axles, intake & exhaust manifolds, throttle body, turbo, full exhaust, MAF, intercooler pipes, smog components, fuel lines/rails/injectors, and hope fuel power source isn't hacked up. Did I miss anything?
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Sep 23, 2018 at 10:36 PM.
#18
Evolving Member
As previously said by others, it really depends on what you want to achieve with your car. If you are on a budget build and/or you are more of a drag guy, you should go with a 2.0. With using the oem crank and buying pistons and rods you can make a badass engine with much less money than other engines. With this engine you can easily rev 9.000-9.500+. If you want a more torquey engine, you can go with a 2.2 engine. With this engine you have to buy an 94mm aftermarket crank. This is considered to be the best of both worlds, as it can rev really high and also have more torque than a 2.0 which will also help with the spool of a larger turbo (if you are planning of switching). Moving on there is the 2.3 engine with the 100mm crank which has even more torque than 2.2 but it is rpm limited in contrast smaller engines. I think that the 2.3 is one of the best options for daily builds and roll racing on street. The other option which I actually did, is the 2.4 Long Rod engine which is based on the 4g64 block which is actually 6mm taller than 4g63. You can use the 156mm rods instead of the 150mm which will give you a better angle and maybe 300-500rpms more than 2.3. Based on more experienced tuners and engine builders, 2.4 although is not a popular choice for drag racing due to rpm limitations and the thinner cylinder walls (86.50mm) in contrast with the 4g63 (85mm). There are a ton of options but eventually it depends on what you like to do with your car