When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I put the new BISS in screwed it all the way in like I had it set with the older one in SAS and fired it up. Car started fine but then died after few seconds no surprise since the screw is all the way in. Loosened it a bit, started it(didn't die)and let it warm up so I can go into SAS again and set it. This time I got it down to 1300 with it all the way in, in SAS when my target idle is 1138 exactly. So I exited out of SAS and logged it, it started to idle at around 1168-1210 rpm according to evoscan with 14-15 degrees of timing at idle. So the new BISS helped but I am not done yet sadly.
I know that the BISS isn't supposed to be bottomed out regardless so next thing to do is a boost leak test and then look for boost leaks and vacuum leaks. Still need to find a PVC endcap, the home depot I went to yesterday after work had a small selection.
Finally did a boost leak test, fixed one which I had at the J-pipe but now this cover held by a phillips screw in the throttle body is leaking my question is what is this thing? Is there a gasket or an oring in there?
Last edited by TomekEVO; Dec 30, 2018 at 05:04 PM.
Alright so after a new amazon IAC a new BISS screw/oring the car still won't get to the correct idle without the BISS screw being screwed all the way in, the biss being all the way in causes the car to want to die on cold startup and has a rough time starting warm. Boost leak tested it no leaks. Looked over vac lines and all seem good. My egr is removed and the nipples on TB are capped off. The intake nipple is being used for my boost gauge. Tom did the throttle body seals so I have a feeling something happened with it that is causing this. My TPS reading when throttle closed/car off or on is showing 14.5098% Maybe setting it at a lower percentage(but higher than 13%) and adjusting the throttle cable slider on IM so I am still getting 100% at WOT on fully depressed pedal would give me enough room to open the BISS and get 1140rpm which is my target idle. Having the biss open would get rid of the cold and warm starting issues because when I open the biss and start it cold or warm it gets rid of the issues but the idle is high and not close to the target idle.
Honestly I don't even know what this could be and neither does Tom, my next step is to get an another oem IAC from a upick junk yard(I already got one but it mimicked the same qualities of my original IAC valve that is supposedly causing issues) before dishing out 400 for a brand new oem one. Or adjusting the TPS if thats what people on here think could fix the issue. I also got a retune for putting the TIAL Q in.
Would a front o2 sensor in the o2 housing going bad cause a higher idle? I am just throwing things out there at this point.
I logged the ISC steps in evoscan as well and its sitting at 31 steps at idle when running warmed up when the car is off and cold the steps are sitting at 112
BTW the above picture where it was leaking is the IAC warmup flapper there is an oring in there so I replaced that and then put some grey rtv on the lip and it stopped leaking. For anyone wondering.
Alright so after a new amazon IAC a new BISS screw/oring the car still won't get to the correct idle without the BISS screw being screwed all the way in, the biss being all the way in causes the car to want to die on cold startup and has a rough time starting warm. Boost leak tested it no leaks. Looked over vac lines and all seem good. My egr is removed and the nipples on TB are capped off. The intake nipple is being used for my boost gauge. Tom did the throttle body seals so I have a feeling something happened with it that is causing this. My TPS reading when throttle closed/car off or on is showing 14.5098% Maybe setting it at a lower percentage(but higher than 13%) and adjusting the throttle cable slider on IM so I am still getting 100% at WOT on fully depressed pedal would give me enough room to open the BISS and get 1140rpm which is my target idle. Having the biss open would get rid of the cold and warm starting issues because when I open the biss and start it cold or warm it gets rid of the issues but the idle is high and not close to the target idle.
Honestly I don't even know what this could be and neither does Tom, my next step is to get an another oem IAC from a upick junk yard(I already got one but it mimicked the same qualities of my original IAC valve that is supposedly causing issues) before dishing out 400 for a brand new oem one. Or adjusting the TPS if thats what people on here think could fix the issue. I also got a retune for putting the TIAL Q in.
Would a front o2 sensor in the o2 housing going bad cause a higher idle? I am just throwing things out there at this point.
I logged the ISC steps in evoscan as well and its sitting at 31 steps at idle when running warmed up when the car is off and cold the steps are sitting at 112
Look the only thing i can think of is timing it out in the idle section. I had a similar issue no matter how much i changed the BISS screw it wouldn't make a difference but adjusting the afr and timing fixed my issue on my 98 map. Ill check my TPS when i get home and let you know. Would you be able yo upload your map and a list of your mods? Or atleast a screenshot of your timing to get a better idea on whats going on. A log would be great to take a look at.
Look the only thing i can think of is timing it out in the idle section. I had a similar issue no matter how much i changed the BISS screw it wouldn't make a difference but adjusting the afr and timing fixed my issue on my 98 map. Ill check my TPS when i get home and let you know. Would you be able yo upload your map and a list of your mods? Or atleast a screenshot of your timing to get a better idea on whats going on. A log would be great to take a look at.
I can definitely upload the screenshots what tables would you want me to post?
Mods are
FiTronic flex fuel Speed density tune
3.5 SD intake with cone
1220 FIC injectors
255 walbro fuelpump
Coil on plug kit
Short route UICP with TIAL Q
LICP
ETS 3.5 inch intercooler
3-port grimspeed boost controller
TB seals done with milspec
The ones seen on the image. Such as spark maps and fuel maps. Evo scan logs would be great as well to see whats going on.
Hey I can't find that in my map. Its a Fitronic flex fuel kit ROM that uses tephra. My tuner gave me the XML definition so I can load the ROM onto my ecuflash to see it.
Hey I can't find that in my map. Its a Fitronic flex fuel kit ROM that uses tephra. My tuner gave me the XML definition so I can load the ROM onto my ecuflash to see it.
It maybe called something similar timing or fuelmap?
Dec 15, 2018, 11:51 AM
