Hi, I am doing an Evolution 7.5 GT-A Semi/Auto to 5 speed manual conversion. I have pretty much everything out and ready to install the new parts except for this part in the middle of where the flywheel bolts to. It's where a pilot bearing would go.

Here is a picture. I can get another pilot bearing puller but I am hesitant it actually needs to come out or maybe I am missing a step to get it off like unbolting the plate that holds on the rear main seal?

 

Most Evo guys haven't done this, because most of us don't have an Automatic Transmission and never had to remove a Pilot Bushing.

But by taking a look at the DSM guys, this might help: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/re...g-easy.467797/

 

Thank you. I was thinking about doing that but I was not sure on what exactly people meant and I knew if I missed one step I'd be screwed. Do you think Lucas oil multipurpose grease would work?
​​​
There was another puller that used hydraulic pressure, you screwed it in and then just injected grease until it popped off.

I am going to try the socket method and if that doesn't work then I don't know...

 

If it doesn't work maybe I'll drill some holes in the side to give an area for a regular pully grabber to hold onto as a bolt is pushed down through the middle popping it off. Luckily I've had experience making custom pully grabbers without a welder or proper cutting tools.

If I had a welder I could just use a steering wheel puller, weld the two bolts in place with the middle bracket and "pusher" bolt in between and then just screw down the pusher bolt until it releases.

 

search the supraforums how to remove a pilot bearing.
same process might work.

 

Yes, I just found this out. Use bread dough (works better than plain bread) to fill hole. Then with a bolt of same size as pilot bearing hole, you insert and pound away!

 

 

Pilot bearings are not on nearly as tight. I broke a pilot bearing puller and it didn't even begin to move lol. I've tried bread dough on a motorcycle engine bushing and it just gets rock hard and nothing... I am going to try grease via the same method and using a heat gun as well as lots of liquid wrench lube. I also these bought metal pucks you pound in with a hammer to just widen bearings enough. If the puck gets stuck I am screwed unless I can seal off the square hold and install a grease nipple to do the grease method again only a different way... Thank you for all the suggestions. P

keep them coming because these might not work.

I am thinking up a spreader type tool but cannot think what to make it out of other than two metal plates that go into the hole and a nut welded on each one. Then just unscrew the bolt with the plates in the middle. A bolt on each side. Thing is if I or someone I knew had a welder then apparently I can just get them to tig weld around the inside and it'll come off... I'm thinking a torch would do it but with the tight space and such I would rather wait half an hour or so with the heat gun.

 

For anyone interested there is a lot of information on this on DSM related stuff using Google search. The part #756766 and it is called a CRANKSHAFT BUSHING. Apparently the grease method and wooden dowel is the way to go. Let's try tomorrow! Hopefully I can return some other tools.

 

Well I didn't really have much luck with the grease and liquid wrench. Also the metal plugs I have are too big to wedge in there. I could return them and buy a OTC Steering Neck remover or another option is this weird pyrmid plug that I think you hammer in and then use a grease gun to hydraulic press it out but I doubt that would offer enough force...

My friend said if someone just tig welds the inside then it should pop off easily. Is that true?

 

Yeah, should do when it cools down... But I would tig weld on a piece of steel rod and pull everything out..

 

Bread worked for me, the only thing I was able to find that fit the hole well enough was the head of a bolt..

 

Here is a list of what did NOT work in order I tried them in:

OEM Tools Pilot Bearing Puller (broke)

Grease and electrical taped socket for a tight fit on the larger diameter part.: Banged until my extension was getting dents (Would not advise to push it this far) also tried on only inner diameter using backwards 3/8th extension

Wet paper towel ripped up super finely on inner diameter. (Actually did start going in behind but stopped) I tried it with grease included.

I then tapped it with an 18mm 1.5 pitch threading tool. It hit the back and started to make it bulge forward Abit but then just stripped.

I tried a bolt the same size that threaded in nicely. It started to make the crank turn but then it just stripped. I also tried Grease behind it to act as a hydraulic but it squished out even with the fine threads.

I then cut it using my high powered electric wired drill using a rounded cone shaped bit that took about half an inch out and took me about an hour but I was being rushed by someone and not thinking clearly and accidentally went to far. There is zero sign that you cut through the bushing other than the bushing is much, much harder than the crankshaft, it only took a skim to grind into the crank but the actual steel bushing took around a minute just to begin cutting!

I used no heat at any time because I plan to take it all apart in a few months and redo seals and probably get my clutch pads repadded. I also have no money so I couldn't damage the rear main seal that looks healthy.

I would advise that if you're doing any Transmission out job and want to spend a few extra dollars on o-rings, seals and so on that to get the Throw Out Bearing (TOB), Rear Main Seal and oil pan gasket because you should do it properly by removing the retaining plate and dropping the oil pan and cleaning that out while you're at it. (You need a paper gasket and I believe a little ring retainer and MUST do it the proper way if you have a 6 bolt engine). From there then I'd go input shaft seal, transfer case seal and anything else but those first ones are the biggies.

As of this second the bushing is still stuck even though half an inch or so is cut out of it!

So the final method I am going to do which might of worked to begin with but I didn't want to take any chances so I just cut the bushing, is, I am going to drill two tiny holes and work my way up until I can fit two very small 300lb rated hooks I bought will slip through. Then I will attach it to a chain and try whipping it first and since that probably won't work I'll attach the chain to my engine support beam that will be laying on the ground by the side of the front wheel and it will rest against my disk brake rotor as I spin the handle tightening the chain and pulling the bushing. This way there is no risk of the vehicle coming off the jack stands and I have seen this technique used before with a hand winch / ratcheting tie downs but it can be very dangerous just like using a torch that close to your face. Wish me luck.

 

Dang

 

Well the Engine support bar method was just a tad to big but while I had it attached to a chain (a light one) I decided to do what my friend suggested and just whip it. I didn't even whip it that hard and it shot out faster than I could see!

My friend suggested that I actually just grind a hook into some threaded, "ready rod" and **** it in the middle so that's another faster way to do get it out or just thread it and attach a slide hammer.




The back looks interesting but I saw no real signs of glue or sealant. It broke the first tiny for metal drill bit I used and got the others smoking hot, I did it in two stages. I don't know why they had to make it out of such tough steel when brass and less hard metals work for other cars with more power.