Best clutch for the money?
Originally posted by UFO
...Cold startup: Chatters like my wife.
Gear shifts: Sometimes it just won't go into gear. Redline it and try to shift quickly and it's like you hit a wall. The gears don't grind, the lever just won't go in. Also happens when I try to downshift to 3rd sometimes; just won't go in.
Pedal pressure: Firmer than stock, which I don't like.
1 - 2 shift: Doesn't grind, just makes a horrible 'clunk.'
I could live with most of those problems, but the fact that I can't put it into gear sometimes just really annoys me. I never missed a shift with the stock clutch (let's face it, it's pretty hard to mis-shift these trannies) but have missed many with the ACT.
...Cold startup: Chatters like my wife.
Gear shifts: Sometimes it just won't go into gear. Redline it and try to shift quickly and it's like you hit a wall. The gears don't grind, the lever just won't go in. Also happens when I try to downshift to 3rd sometimes; just won't go in.
Pedal pressure: Firmer than stock, which I don't like.
1 - 2 shift: Doesn't grind, just makes a horrible 'clunk.'
I could live with most of those problems, but the fact that I can't put it into gear sometimes just really annoys me. I never missed a shift with the stock clutch (let's face it, it's pretty hard to mis-shift these trannies) but have missed many with the ACT.
(wife)Have you discused this with ACT, and have they offered you a fix?
UFO, have you tried adjusting the clutch engagement point? It sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you're trying to shift. That may be the cause of your problem. Most aftermarket clutches will require some adjustment to work properly.
Here's one way to test to see if your clutch is fully disengaging:
1) drive your car onto a level surface
2) step on the clutch
3) put shifter into first gear
4) bring engine revs up (maybe to 6-7k) and see if car creeps forward
If it creeps forward, your clutch isn't fully disengaging and needs adjustment.
Here's one way to test to see if your clutch is fully disengaging:
1) drive your car onto a level surface
2) step on the clutch
3) put shifter into first gear
4) bring engine revs up (maybe to 6-7k) and see if car creeps forward
If it creeps forward, your clutch isn't fully disengaging and needs adjustment.
Originally posted by marksae
UFO, have you tried adjusting the clutch engagement point? It sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you're trying to shift. That may be the cause of your problem. Most aftermarket clutches will require some adjustment to work properly.
Here's one way to test to see if your clutch is fully disengaging:
1) drive your car onto a level surface
2) step on the clutch
3) put shifter into first gear
4) bring engine revs up (maybe to 6-7k) and see if car creeps forward
If it creeps forward, your clutch isn't fully disengaging and needs adjustment.
UFO, have you tried adjusting the clutch engagement point? It sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you're trying to shift. That may be the cause of your problem. Most aftermarket clutches will require some adjustment to work properly.
Here's one way to test to see if your clutch is fully disengaging:
1) drive your car onto a level surface
2) step on the clutch
3) put shifter into first gear
4) bring engine revs up (maybe to 6-7k) and see if car creeps forward
If it creeps forward, your clutch isn't fully disengaging and needs adjustment.
Regarding talking to ACT: No, I haven't, but I am not the first to report that the car doesn't like going into gear so I was just assuming it was an inherent problem. As soon as I get some money saved the ACT is going to be removed, set on fire, run over with a dump truck, urinated on, and have its ashes scattered at sea while a twin plate, probably the Cusco, gets installed.
I'd say Cusco:
1. Last 30k miles for the easy drivers
2. When Cusco goes out, its roughly 600 for plates and you get another 30k miles of driving.
3. Reg. organic clutches would only last you what 10k miles? And it costs 600 everytime you have to get a new one, PLUS installation!
1. Last 30k miles for the easy drivers
2. When Cusco goes out, its roughly 600 for plates and you get another 30k miles of driving.
3. Reg. organic clutches would only last you what 10k miles? And it costs 600 everytime you have to get a new one, PLUS installation!
Originally posted by UFO
Clutch engages about 2/3 up regarding pedal travel. I will try what you suggested when I leave work later.
Regarding talking to ACT: No, I haven't, but I am not the first to report that the car doesn't like going into gear so I was just assuming it was an inherent problem. As soon as I get some money saved the ACT is going to be removed, set on fire, run over with a dump truck, urinated on, and have its ashes scattered at sea while a twin plate, probably the Cusco, gets installed.
Clutch engages about 2/3 up regarding pedal travel. I will try what you suggested when I leave work later.
Regarding talking to ACT: No, I haven't, but I am not the first to report that the car doesn't like going into gear so I was just assuming it was an inherent problem. As soon as I get some money saved the ACT is going to be removed, set on fire, run over with a dump truck, urinated on, and have its ashes scattered at sea while a twin plate, probably the Cusco, gets installed.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...T&pagenumber=2
Originally posted by GOKOU
You need to do a search because someone was having the same problem as you and ACT man help solved that issue. It had something to do with adjusting th clutch rod.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...T&pagenumber=2
You need to do a search because someone was having the same problem as you and ACT man help solved that issue. It had something to do with adjusting th clutch rod.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...T&pagenumber=2
joeycoates
I just wanted to post on this subject because with ACTman's help I was able to resolve the shifting issue's that I was having with the ACT clutch. He had suggested two things to try in order to get rid of the sticking clutch. Number one was to try removing the underdrive pulley and put the stock dampner back on and some high powered DSM's have had torsional vibration problem when the dampning was removed. The second suggestion was just to adjust the clutch rod out so that as soon as I pushed on the clutch pedal the takeup bagan immediatly. I was very suprised to find that I could adjust the clutch rod so that I lost about an inch of free-play before the take up started. I had not adjusted this when I put the clutch in as it had worked where it was with the stock clutch so I assumed that it would be cool where it was with the new clutch. Bad assumption. When I took the car out for a drive after I did these things I could rip of shifts just as fast as my hand could move, no sticking, no drag at all. This coupled with the GM syncromesh fluid and the tranny is smooth as silk and lightning fast as well. What I do not know right now is if taking the underdrive pulley off helped with the problem or not. I do know that there is a perceptable difference with it off. If I get a chance I will put it back on tomorrow and see what the difference is.
I just wanted to post on this subject because with ACTman's help I was able to resolve the shifting issue's that I was having with the ACT clutch. He had suggested two things to try in order to get rid of the sticking clutch. Number one was to try removing the underdrive pulley and put the stock dampner back on and some high powered DSM's have had torsional vibration problem when the dampning was removed. The second suggestion was just to adjust the clutch rod out so that as soon as I pushed on the clutch pedal the takeup bagan immediatly. I was very suprised to find that I could adjust the clutch rod so that I lost about an inch of free-play before the take up started. I had not adjusted this when I put the clutch in as it had worked where it was with the stock clutch so I assumed that it would be cool where it was with the new clutch. Bad assumption. When I took the car out for a drive after I did these things I could rip of shifts just as fast as my hand could move, no sticking, no drag at all. This coupled with the GM syncromesh fluid and the tranny is smooth as silk and lightning fast as well. What I do not know right now is if taking the underdrive pulley off helped with the problem or not. I do know that there is a perceptable difference with it off. If I get a chance I will put it back on tomorrow and see what the difference is.
Last edited by Zeus; Apr 15, 2004 at 09:36 AM.
Originally posted by Zeus
That's where I was going... people are too quick to judge, and not quick enough to search for the proper solution. UFO said he could live with everything but the gear issue...
That's where I was going... people are too quick to judge, and not quick enough to search for the proper solution. UFO said he could live with everything but the gear issue...
Originally posted by UFO
I also don't want to adjust my clutch so that it dis/engages at the very end of the pedal travel. That isn't comfortable to me. I also just dislike the whole feel of the clutch, so I will live with it all until it gets replaced.
I also don't want to adjust my clutch so that it dis/engages at the very end of the pedal travel. That isn't comfortable to me. I also just dislike the whole feel of the clutch, so I will live with it all until it gets replaced.
How many miles do have on the clutch?
Originally posted by snoop
Do you want to sell it? I would interested if It hasn't been abused. PM me if you want to sale?
How many miles do have on the clutch?
Do you want to sell it? I would interested if It hasn't been abused. PM me if you want to sale?
How many miles do have on the clutch?
.
single plate?
why not go with a single plate?
I haven't heard anything negative about the exedy or cusco single plate clutches. they are rated to handle more than most cars will ever need. Anybody got experience with these?
I haven't heard anything negative about the exedy or cusco single plate clutches. they are rated to handle more than most cars will ever need. Anybody got experience with these?
If you don't adjust the clutch to fully disengage, you'll damage your tranny since you're basically forcing into gear with every shift. I'd get it adjusted properly and go from there. I've had ACT 2600 clutches in my past 2 DSMs and I've never had a problem with it. They did require some adjustments to work right though.
Originally posted by UFO
I also don't want to adjust my clutch so that it dis/engages at the very end of the pedal travel. That isn't comfortable to me. I also just dislike the whole feel of the clutch, so I will live with it all until it gets replaced.
I also don't want to adjust my clutch so that it dis/engages at the very end of the pedal travel. That isn't comfortable to me. I also just dislike the whole feel of the clutch, so I will live with it all until it gets replaced.
Definitely try to adjust it (see the installation instructions for details). Just make sure you leave freeplay in the rod. I don't like how high the stock EVO clutch engages, but it seems necessary in order to get full release.
When we design a clutch we are balancing several things. There are always tradeoffs. What is it that you dislike about the feel? Maybe you will be willing to give up something else to get a clutch more to your tastes. Given the criteria, maybe I can recommend something. I am familiar with most designs out there and their strengths and weaknesses. Whatever I can do to help. I won't talk bad about the competition publicly.
Thread Starter
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From: Philly/Jersey
ACTMAN -
i've had the xtreme pressure plate with 4 puck on my h22 civic. that thing lasted over 40k miles. I think the owner still has it in it now. thats the only act clutch i've used. now if i were to get the organic disc instead it would just wear out even faster. I'm really just look aggressive disc then your organic. something like a 4 puck sprung or 6puck sprung hub.
Are you guys going to develop a twin disc setup or carbon faced disc?
does tilton make a evo clutch???
i've had the xtreme pressure plate with 4 puck on my h22 civic. that thing lasted over 40k miles. I think the owner still has it in it now. thats the only act clutch i've used. now if i were to get the organic disc instead it would just wear out even faster. I'm really just look aggressive disc then your organic. something like a 4 puck sprung or 6puck sprung hub.
Are you guys going to develop a twin disc setup or carbon faced disc?
does tilton make a evo clutch???
Originally posted by ACTman
I am sorry to hear of your dissatisfaction with our clutch. I would rather here complaints directly from a customer rather than getting blasted on a public forum. We have a lot of satisfied customers and we don't keep them satisfied by making crap.
Definitely try to adjust it (see the installation instructions for details). Just make sure you leave freeplay in the rod. I don't like how high the stock EVO clutch engages, but it seems necessary in order to get full release.
When we design a clutch we are balancing several things. There are always tradeoffs. What is it that you dislike about the feel? Maybe you will be willing to give up something else to get a clutch more to your tastes. Given the criteria, maybe I can recommend something. I am familiar with most designs out there and their strengths and weaknesses. Whatever I can do to help. I won't talk bad about the competition publicly.
I am sorry to hear of your dissatisfaction with our clutch. I would rather here complaints directly from a customer rather than getting blasted on a public forum. We have a lot of satisfied customers and we don't keep them satisfied by making crap.
Definitely try to adjust it (see the installation instructions for details). Just make sure you leave freeplay in the rod. I don't like how high the stock EVO clutch engages, but it seems necessary in order to get full release.
When we design a clutch we are balancing several things. There are always tradeoffs. What is it that you dislike about the feel? Maybe you will be willing to give up something else to get a clutch more to your tastes. Given the criteria, maybe I can recommend something. I am familiar with most designs out there and their strengths and weaknesses. Whatever I can do to help. I won't talk bad about the competition publicly.
Like I said before, it is partially my fault because I should have done more research to begin with. I went with the cheap option because it was all I could afford at the time, and you only get what you pay for right? Lesson learned and I should have driven an ACT equipped car before making up my mind. I also never blasted your company in any way, I just stated a personal opinion that I think your clutch sucks. I am happy to hear that some people do actually like the clutch but it really isn't the right clutch for me and my car.