We have all kinds of stuff we are playing with but no twin or carbon for the EVO in the immediate future. I wouldn't recommend a spring center puck unless you really like chatter. A solid is smoother, but also much louder. I think you would be suprised how long an organic will last if you treat it right.

Tilton doesn't make application specific clutches, but there is always a way to adapt their clutch to just about any application by using a special flywheel and release bearing, etc. You will have to change to a push type and maybe the pedal assembly or master cylinder to get the right throw. Don't expect to just bolt it in and drive.

 

Thanks for the explanation. I think I understand what you are talking about. "Lumpy" probably describes the quickness that it engages (harder to modulate) along with the extra pedal effort. It is not as progressive as a stock clutch. I admit we are pushing it a bit to get the torque capacity we are acheiving. If we back off some, we could get rid of the some of the lumpiness, but then we would get more complaint about torque capacity.

Adjusting the clutch is not really a workaround IMHO. If you refuse to adjust the clutch to get it to release properly, then beware of transmission problems. I agree that having a high release point can be annoying. I am not sure on the EVO but check to see if you can get more travel under the pedal. Sometimes aftermarket pedals, carpet, etc will limit the travel. The more travel you can get at the bottom, the better to keep the release point where you like it.

Cheap option? Now I am offended!! Just kidding. I would like to think we offer good value for the $$. We have close to 500 ftlbs of torque capacity on a street setup, direct bolt on, SFI certification, computer balanced, blah, blah, blah. Try and get that for the same price anywhere else. No we don't claim it is as strong as a carbon/carbon twin super whammy clutch (figure of speech) but then again, many of those clutches are not really well suited for street either with loud gear noise, floater rattle, or harsh engagement. Then there is the price tag. I am not saying that they don't have their place, but no matter what, there are tradeoffs to every design, including ours.

Just to prove a point about tradeoffs and value... You can use the stock pressure plate and our $113 race disc and you will gain the lower engagement point you desire, 30% more torque capacity over stock, stock pedal effort, great heat capacity and durability, and faster shifting. But of course there are the tradeoffs: Harsher engagement and gear noise. Not exactly what I would prefer on the street, but some people (Honda customers come to mind) seem to like that "bang and go" feel of the race disc.

Choose wisely. I hope you find what you are looking for. If I can help, just drop me an email. Thanks for your input.

 

UFO, do you still have your restrictor in your clutch line? Also, are you using a SS clutch line? From what you've described, it sounds like your clutch is fully disengaging since your car doesn't creep forward when revving your engine.

 

SS clutch line is installed. To be honest, I don't know if the restrictor is in there. I would say yes because I never asked them to remove it when they installed the line and the clutch at the same time.

And Dirk: Stop being nice. It's hard to be mean about your product when you're being so damn nice .

 

i have the exedy twin plate, feels just like stock or maybe even less resistance and engages at about 1/3 the way up when i release the pedal. yes i realize its expensive but if it lasts me 30000 miles or more its well worth it, especially after the dissapointment of these cheap stock clutches.

 

Exedy sounds good then but for that price I was hoping it will last longer then that.

 

LOL.

Ok, let's meet at high noon out in the parking lot and duke it out. You bring your birdleg friends who can't handle a real clutch and I will bring out my employees after telling them what you said about their hard work.

Seriously though, my attitude is that your complaints help drive improvements on our products for the future. I do try and pay attention, otherwise I wouldn't even try and go onto forums like this. Most of the time getting involved on forums doesn't work out very good for manufacturers but that's just a risk I take.

 

Well, kudos to you sir, you are a class act. There are many others who would have approached this differently and I appreciate your light hearted and sympathetic approach. In fact, you have inspired me. Tomorrow I will bleed the system again and play around with the clutch adjustment to see if I can work this problem out. Now, I'm not saying I'm going to keep it but I will at least try to get it to function as it should (problem seems to be more prominent on down shifts too for some reason).

 

FWIW, the dealer installed my ACT clutch a few weeks, and after getting used to it, I really like it. The dealer seemed to like it too. Hate, to see some one having problems, but so far so good.

 

It is not uncommon for the dealer (or any good shop) to adjust the clutch after install... I've done it on Nissans, Honda/Acuras, and I'm sure I will on Mitsu's in the future.