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Rear diff bar stud seized

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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:25 PM
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Rear diff bar stud seized

Any tips on getting this thing loose? The stud on the diff bar is seized to the aluminum bar. I’ve tried the air hammer, heating up the bar, prying on it. The passenger side came off easy and it’s just the driver side that is the issue.




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Old May 24, 2020 | 05:22 PM
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im surprised a big pry bar wont pry it off.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 05:39 PM
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You and me both! 😂 Hopefully I can get it out or I'll have to work around it. I've been working on it for days now.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:10 PM
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Try shooting some penetrating oil up there
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BLK_EvIL
Try shooting some penetrating oil up there
I've been soaking it in Liquid Wrench for the last 3 days.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Cant you double nut it & wrench it off?

You noted you used heat? Was that the blue wrench? (torch)
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:26 PM
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Crc makes a freeze off cryo penetrator iv used it in past with good results they carry it at oriellys and probably all chain parts stores
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
Cant you double nut it & wrench it off?

You noted you used heat? Was that the blue wrench? (torch)
I used a map-pro yellow torch.

Not sure the stud is removable. The head of the stud sits loose in the frame and the stud has some play in it. I think its boxed in the frame and that's what keeps the stud from spinning.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BLK_EvIL
Crc makes a freeze off cryo penetrator iv used it in past with good results they carry it at oriellys and probably all chain parts stores
I will see if I can get some and try it out.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:02 PM
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Good luck i was putting in a tubular rear subframe and that same section would not move for me, i tried everything for days ad it wouldn't budge. I ended up sawing it off and then sawing the bolt in half, i only did that because i wasn't using the subframe again.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 11:07 PM
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The hole on the passenger side is ovaled out so it doesnt seize unlike the driverside. This also fought me on my car but it wasn't too bad. Get your torch and carefully torch the driverside on the subframe, not the stud. Keep in mind fuel filler neck is right there so use common sense around that. Torch around for a bit then get a prybar up in there and pry downward and itll come off. Without heat it aint moving.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
The hole on the passenger side is ovaled out so it doesnt seize unlike the driverside. This also fought me on my car but it wasn't too bad. Get your torch and carefully torch the driverside on the subframe, not the stud. Keep in mind fuel filler neck is right there so use common sense around that. Torch around for a bit then get a prybar up in there and pry downward and itll come off. Without heat it aint moving.
Ok thanks for the tips. I will give these a try tomorrow. My gas tank and filler neck are not installed right now so no worry there. Lol
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Old May 25, 2020 | 11:46 AM
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Finally got in the proper air hammer attachment I needed (they were all out at all the local stores). An air hammer with this attachment zipped it right off.

Grey Pneumatic (CH117 1" Diameter...
Amazon Amazon




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Old May 25, 2020 | 04:40 PM
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clean that thing and lube it up so it dont happen again... lol.

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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hutch959
clean that thing and lube it up so it dont happen again... lol.
I use SAF-T-EZE Copper Anti-Seize on most things on the Evo. It's great stuff. I'm also going to do some sanding on the hole in the aluminum bar because it wont go back on unless I do that. lol
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