I am working on dropping my acd tcase but I got stuck on an issue with a rounded bolt trying to remove the tail housing. It’s the last bolt that I need to remove, but unfortunately ran into this problem. I have tried Irwin brand bolt extractor and it seemed to have helped but halfway through it started chewing off the bolt and got rounded again and the next smallest socket, I couldn’t hammer enough to sit flush to get it to bite without the socket popping out.
I’ve seen youtube videos where they drop the subframe and never had to remove the tailhousing. Is dropping the subframe my last option here?
I’m working off of jackstands only.

Appreciate any feedback and advise. Thanks!

 

Are you trying to remove the whole transfer case from car? If so you don't need to remove tail shaft. As far as the bolt maybe a set of visegrips or welding a nut on top of the bolt.

 

Dropping the subframe is not a problem. You can even drop it by just a bit to help getting the transfer out. Having said that, if you manage to unbolt the front and rear rooll mount you will be able to tilt the engine enough to get the TC out...

 

Yes.

Vise won’t fit. I planned to just leave the tailhousing alone. And like you said, which I just learned, is to just wiggle it out. Either loosen the subframe or remove the rear and front mount.

 

Thanks! I had the front mount done. I’m just contemplating on whether to drop the subframe or remove the rear mount. Whichever is less intimadating or painful to do . Sounds like removing rear mount is much easier.

 

The rear mount isn't that hard to unbolt. Once that is unbolted use a really big prybar to rock the engine forward enough to wiggle the TC out.

 

The only issue with removing the subframe is that you really should do an alignment later, and that you need to disconnect the steering column and get it back on again in the exactly the same angle..

I dont have issues with that because I have easy access to an alignment so I tend to drop the subframe and leave it hanging... but unbolting the rear mount might be easier for you....

 

I have been busy at work and I have only worked on the car a few times and doing what I can and in piecemeal on limited hours.
First I tried cutting the rounded tail shaft bolt with dremel but there’s not much room to work around. I got a few millimeters in but I did not continue as I got worried the sparks might ignite something under the car (although I tried my best to cover the areas with some metal sheets but still it was not enough to build my confidence).

I then attempted to unbolt the subframe bolt (the one pointing down with a square captive bolt) but I also ended up stripping it.
So went ahead and removed the rear mount. I just realized I have to remove the radiator because there’s just not enough clearance to swing the engine forward without hitting the radiator.

And today I had a chance to work on it full day and I finally got it out!!! I sincerely thank you guys for the advice...being my first time doing this I almost gave up!
I know it will take me many days again before it’s ready to be put back in. But I still have to address few more things:

1.) Remove the rounded tailshaft bolt. I tried vise grips but still won’t budge. I can clearly see now that the bolt got off the thread and it’s a little bit slanted so the thread is obviously messed up. I ended up cutting the head of the bolt. After I removed the housing, I will cut the remaining stud flush and I will just drill it down. I hope I can still use a new bolt given the condition of the thread but I will worry about this later.




2.) Nicks around the metal that houses the seal. Is this gonna cause a leak??? Appreciate any advice please.
I was so focused on getting the tcase to slide down with that tight space and I only paid attention to whichever edge of the tcase housing is touching the engine or subframe as I was trying to muscle and move it around so I never really knew that I was nicking those areas.
Now I’m stuck with this dilemma because I have no way of fixing these imperfections and I’m concerned to put the tcase back if this is just going to be a source of leaks.
By the way, I have all of the brand new oem seals with me to replace the old ones. This is the reason why I take the tcase down in the first place is to address a slow leak.






3.) Clean the tcase - well I just completed this and this is what I can say I did really well and had enjoyed the most. Lol!


Thank again in advance!

 

i would weld a nut on that bolt and try to get it out.


drilling it out will be really hard to do.

 

Thanks! Unfortunately I don’t have one but I’ll bring it to a friend of mine who can weld it for me.