Ok so i am currently in the process of removing my transfercase and i have run into a problem... all i have to do now is remove the cross member, lower the subframe and remove 2 of the top tcase bolts.... My problem is that the rear crossmember bolt is just spinning and not coming loose, and the two in the front wont come loose.... I'm using a 6point 17mm socket w a 1/2 drive breaker bar. Does anyone have any input on how to get this done without breaking anything haha and how did you get the top tcase bolts??

thanks.
Travis

 

You have to take the 2 front off also... Tge back shouldn't just be spinning... As for the top one... Did you take off the acd bolt because there's one bolt behind it that's really long... You can get all the top bolts with a long extension

 

i got the front two off but the back one will not come loose, it spins but thats it... and as far as the tcase it "seems" like this bolt is impossible to get off... its the one closest to the block... can the tcase be removed without completely removing the crossmember?? I can still drop the subframe and all?

 

you don't need to drop the k frame to get the transfer case out, just remove the motor mounts, except the cam side one, and jack the motor forward and up. you will be able to remove the transfercase then.

you can get to all the transfercase bolts from underneath the car, you will just need to do some feeling around to get it.

the ACD banjo bolt blocks the removal of the top forward-most bolt and needs to be removed if you want to completely remove the tcase. if you dont need to completely remove the tcase you can use a crowsfoot wrench to break the bolt loose then walk the transfercase out while you remove the bolt, that way you avoid having to deal with bleeding the ACD.

 

Bleeding the ACD is not difficult. I just took the tease out and made sure to get the motor as far forward as possible.

Did you remove the trans? Or the trans mounts?

If you didn't then that's different. I also can tell you that removing the drive shaft first and the rear bell of the tease allows it to come out. You can twist it around a bit to find the gap.