MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

EVO Clutch Install
Use at your own risk, use of the factory shop manual will help your install. I recommend air tools and a full service array of wrenches, extensions, sockets, and other tools. My removal order(OR grammar/spelling) may not be 100% correct, and there may be a better way to do everything that i did, although this is meant as a guide to help you install your clutch on your own. I may have forgot a step here or there, and that is why a reference to the service manual will help to clearup what is hard to directly understand in text. Make sure to follow all torque down specifications. If you have never done a tranny or clutch install then pay someone to do it for you, although if you are semi-experienced mechanic with a couple extra days to spare then this writeup is for you. I have worked on other cars although this still took me a little over 20 hours for removal and installation.

Service Manual links (please do not download unless you need them for sure, I don’t want to exceed my host transfer for the month because some people have never seen a service manual before).
http://www.mrapg.net/joesevo8/EVO/tranny.pdf
http://www.mrapg.net/joesevo8/EVO/clutch.pdf
http://www.mrapg.net/joesevo8/EVO/clutch1.pdf


Underhood before jacking up:
Disconnect battery
Remove the air-box and intake pipe
Remove battery and battery box holder
Remove Upper IC pipe from manifold to buy the fans
Disconnect all wiring from top of tranny side
Remove cotter pins and washers from shifter linkage
Remove 3 12 mm bolts holding down linkage assembly and metal piece holding down slave cylinder line
Remove slave cylinder from transmission, do not disconnect it from the line, 2 12mm bolts hold this to tranny, move up to wiper area once bolts have been removed

Untorque front wheels about 2 turns then jackup and set jackstands and remove jack
Remove front wheels from car

Under the car:
Remove plastic undertray, this is a pain, but take your time so you don't break it
Remove the two tie bars, 5 14 mm bolts
Remove the downpipe 2 14 mm bolts engine side and 2 17 mm bolts catalytic side
Support the rest of the exhaust with a jack stand
Remove the soft part to the lower IC pipe
Remove the centermember that runs from front to back, 2 19 mm bolts front and 1 19 mm bolt rear, remove 14 mm bolt and nut from mount and remove corssmember
Disconnect the starter electircal wires
Remove starter from vehicle, 2 bolts, I believe they are 14 mm
Remove 3 or 4 bolts for the small metal plate for the bellhousing(flywheel) access cover, and 2 10mm phillips head screws
Drain the transmission

Axles and removal:
I only removed the driver side axle from the car because it directly interfers with the tranny reinstall, the passenger side axle can stay connected to the hub and be swung out of the way

Driver side Axle:
Remove cotter holding pin from axle nut
Have someone get in the car and firmly apply the brakes, or get an approved holder to stop the wheel from turning when breaking the axle nut
Use a breaker bar and I believe 1.25" socket on the axle nut to break it loose
After broken loose remove the nut and large crush washer
Remove the two 19 mm bolts and nuts from the strut to the hub area, be careful to not let the hanging of the rotor and caliper assembly to break any of the ABS, speed sensor, or brake lines
Remove the axle carefully from the splines not to scratch the back side of the caliper
Use a pry bar in-between the axle and the transmission to pry away the axle
Remove the axle from the tranny and set aside
Support the rotor and hub assembly by using one of the 19mm bolts back into the strut

Passenger side Axle:
Remove the two 19 mm bolts and nuts from the strut to the hub area, be careful to not let the hanging of the rotor and caliper assembly to break any of the ABS, speed sensor, or brake lines
Remove the axle carefully from the splines not to scratch the back side of the caliper
Use a pry bar in-between the axle and the transmission to pry away the axle
Remove the axle from the tranny and swing aside towards the front of the car
Support the rotor and hub assembly by using one of the 19mm bolts back into the strut

Transfer-case removal:
I was unable to completley remove the transfer case from the vehicle, it may be possible but I didn't do it this way
You will need a pole slap-hammer that can pull out the output shafts from each side of the tranny, these shafts are what the axles spline into
With this slap hammer you will need to find a M8x40mm bolt that threads into the end of each input shaft (MB991721 would be useful here but I wasn't going to buy this to use it once)
Then attach the slap hammer to this bolt and after a few hits away from the car the shaft should come out of the car
Remove the M8 bolt from the shaft and repeat procedure to the other side
The driver side shaft is longer, set both shafts in a safe not dirty place
The snap rings (CIRCLIP) on the shafts are the same as a 90-94 Eclipse driver or passenger axle snap ring, the only reason I am including this is because we had to search for this replacement when the dealer couldn't get us this ring the same day, we happened to break one during the re-install, and this was the easiest way to replace the snap ring, we just returned the axle minus the ring. It helps to have a friend at the parts store.

There are 6 bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission, 3 on top and 3 on the bottom
Remove the 3 bolts on the top, the hardest bolt to understand is one that is not directly next to the tranny, it is a long bolt that is closest to the rear of the car
Remove that bolt and then the other two that are next to the tranny, I removed these from under the car reaching from the passenger side to the bolts, they all face towards the passeger side
Remove the 3 bolts on the bottom side of the transfer case assembly
By lifting up the driveshaft from behind the subframe it is possible to seperate the transfer case from the tranny, a little prying may be needed but careful not to go too far into the transfer case
It now should be possible to seperate the transfer case from the tranny and now move it as far towards the passenger side of the car as possible

Rear Mount on driver side:
There are 3 bolts that hold this mount to the tranny, they are very hard to get to although very possible once acheived, the service manual only shows to bolts but there are in fact 3 bolts
Remove the long bolt holding the mount to the car, jacking up the tranny will be required to make this bolt loose
Remove the 3 bolts holding this mount to the tranny
Remove the mount from the car

Tranny removal part 1:
There are I believe 6 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine, one must be accessed from under the car and must be removed from the passenger side, the rest must be removed from the side and top side of the tranny from the driver side above the engine bay, they are all 14mm bolts
Remove all of these bolts
Now support the engine under the oil pan using a large piece of wood to make sure to not dent the oil pan and jackup slightly

Driver Side Mount removal:
Remove the long bolt that holds the mount to the car, jacking up the engine will be required to make this bolt loose
Remove the bolt and nut
Remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the transaxle
Lower the engine slowly
Remove the mount from the tranny

Tranny removal part 2:
Support the tranny with a jack
All that is holding the tranny onto the car now is the spline for the clutch disc and the throw-out bearing
You must now seperate the throwout bearing from the pressure plate
To do this remove the small rubber service hole on the bottom of the tranny
Use a flashlight to see into the hole to make sure you know what you are doing, and inspect the new clutch set and try this out carefuly on the new set to try this process
Push the release fork towards the driver side of the car
While pushing this in get a long flat screw driver and wedge it in-between the diaphram springs and the wedge collar of the throwout bearing
Rotate the screwdriver 90 degrees to disengage the bearing from pressure plate diaphram (refer to tranny PDF page 24 for more info)
Now slowly lower the tranny jack and move the tranny around to remove it from the splines of the disc
If you like being crushed by the weight of a very heavy tranny get under it like me to support the weight of it coming down, or get some old tires to support the tranny so it doesn't smack on the ground
Tranny should be out now, time for a break :P

Clutch removal:
I belive there are 8 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
Remove these bolts
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc

Flywheel removal:
Remove the 7 bolts from the flywheel
Remove flywheel from engine

Throwout bearing removal:
Take the tranny out from under the car and place in a well-lit area to inpect the bearing, most of the time on low-mileage installs it doesn't need to be replaced, although if you have a new one make sure it is as good as the OE unit and you should replace if you have the new part anyways
To remove the bearing you must remove the bronze colored cap that looks like a freeze plug on top side of the tranny
Now disable the springs that cause the fork to spring back towards the tranny
Remove the single 10mm bolt that holds the fork rod
Carefully pull the rod out of the holes and from the tranny plug you removed making sure to take note of the cloth washers and spring arrangement
After the rod is out of the top of the tranny it should now be possible to remove the fork and the throwout bearing
There really isn't a good writeup of this in the service manual, just stare at the assembly long enough and this should make sense

Installation:
If you follow all these steps in an opposite order you should be able to reassamble it, I will make a reinstall writeup if demand asks for it

LancerEvoMR

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