have that already. had to sort out the timing with that gear on too

yeah. I havent heard it mentioned that BradPenn is no good. I just suspected it at this point. and that maybe its not oil starvation all along. it might be ok for drag racing or just rowing thru the gears, but autox these days are much more demanding

Anybody want to help me spec out a crate motor from ER for autox? @Dallas J @LetsGetThisDone anyone? TIA

 

I would call ER and let them spec it out since they're building it.

 

Yeah I agree I would talk to them let them know exactly what your going to do with the car and have them advise you on what to put in. Be prepaid for the expensive lol cause I am sure it ain't gonna be cheap.

 

of course, but I also want your opinions, maybe educate myself for the chat with ER, I dont want to bore the guys or t hem thinking I'm just wasting their time(ya know?). I can also drop the car off locally but theyre mostly dragracers and street racers. gah. I still have to tell them what I want/know.. 2.2l 94mm crank... i dont know the why but i'll ask for it

 

I get it bro every little bit of information counts. Just keep in mind you have 3 different variations of how you can do this. If your set on 2.2 you have the 94mm crank and 156 rods or what I have ,94mm crank and 162 crank. Just remember too when they talk about stuff and are being asked about what to do top dollar stuff goes in the engine just to raise the price. I mean salesman **** ya know. I think as long as u can keep the oil wherebi need to and don't starve the motor that's where it all starts.
I would add one of these to your setup to help keep oil pressure where it needs to be going around corners.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/accusump

 

Seems almost crazy to me, but I built my current motor like 7-8 years ago and I barely remember the specs of it all.

I know we ran ~9:1 compression, K1 billet 94mm crank, 0.004-0.005 ptw clearance, cut rod caps and honed to factory spec. IIRC.

Just found in an old email Im running 156mm eagle rods and manley pistons because at the time they were the only ones that had OTS pistons with 3mm raised wrist pin.

Block was pulled from a junkyard, cleaned up and line-honed because billet crank.

 

Thanks gents.

 

Big Oil Pan will be helpful.

Just so you know English also built for a customer a pretty fast road course/ Time attack car. So they have knowledge on other racing also.
Also Brad Penn is not bad oil Curse will just tell you there is better race oils.

 

Not bad oil but far from Best or even better. I would rank it just ahead of mobil 1. As for protection I guess on a low budget build or a stock rebuild I guess use it.

I know fp wants you to run it in their turbos to keep warranty, but funny thing is most people would have never jumped in the bandwagon if they were to never say that. Phosphorus and zinc sure keep the bearings alive and all that but for a few bucks more why not run a way better oil and keep everything alive. Don't believe me? Go to YouTube and do oil test searches.

Sure Schaeffer's doesn't always finish first and that's ok. For what we use it on for our cars and as much as most of us beat in them it's pretty ****ing good oil to use across the board. I mean I know race teams that run 15000 HP in their drag tractors and cars that will swear on this stuff and test results don't lie . I was attracted to it just due to the anti foam, slosh and the bearing tests.

 

I lost engine #2 and #3 with the IE pan on. it holds 7gal i believe.

 

Something that may not have been said but what was the cause of the motors to let go? We're they tore down to find out what exactly went wrong?

There is a point I wanna make if infact it was done. Not to say I am right but to help you do it doesn't happen again.

 

Also I have done time attacks and track sprints. thats more like a spirited drive for the motor, keeping it in the powerband and lots of time and track to change gears while also being smooth with the inputs. I dont get into lower rpm then max torque consecutively or revlimiter-enginebrake-revlimiter kind of scenarios in TA/TS. we also dont slam our brakes at the finish

 

well, its still pretty much just guesses at the shop. oil pumps were good. the ER gear was added in the last 2 builds. got convinced to go back to the OE pan "just in case". some folks suspect "contaminants" but with several oil changes during and after break in and seeing that the IE pan "may hide contaminants in the compartments", I agreed to go back to the OE pan in the last (on warranty)build

 

How were the bearings? I mean contaminated oil lets be real here unless there was a ton of bearing material in the oil filter and or you used old oil in highly doubt that. Now if the bearings were spun, I'd say lack of oil, which can contend to froth and other things that happen in the oil pan while moving back and forth on the track. If that were in fact the case info back to my statement use better oil.

 

Not sure if you can access my photo album but I have several pics of the bearing surfaces on page12-14 under My Post Pictures. first spun bearing was #4, 2nd was #1. this current one sounds to be right in between. but note that after the bearing has spun i still have to keep driving slowly to grid, to paddock, to trailer, to garage, then to trailer/shop again. this last one, i think it took me a while before I noticed the (higher pitched) tapping sound because its much quieter at high rpm. I'll check under the VC tonight hoping to see if something is off there lol
The engine builder's "hunch" was "aeration" or more like the oil return of the IE pan might be blowing oil into the air (they never heard of the IE pan before). he's just guessing of course. none of my 2 builders/tuners (also evoms folks) ever doubted the oil. lots of chip bearing material was found in the oil compartments, pick up and filter. so far in this current one, theres no bearing chip material in the oil/filter but a lot of glitters.
"frothing" cant say we've seen any sign of this or that the oil looks/feels different when drained. since doing the VTA catch cans with working PCV my oil and fumes dont smell like e85 fuel. it did before